Reducing noise and monitoring temperature?
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
Reducing noise and monitoring temperature?
I have to admit that is was only recently I even discovered it was possible to reduce the noise of my PC. Since then of course my perception of how noisy it is has increased enormously.
I have an "off the shelf" Evesham pc with an AMD64 2800+, 160g maxtor hardrive and a Radeon 9000(?) graphics card.
I have read the Newbie FAQ's and done as much searching as I can and have discovered the following.
The main noise comes from the fan at the front of the PC - I think it is and air intake and it sits right in front of the hard drive.
The next most noisy is the fan on the mobo - which is a standard 80mm. I have managed to stop both of these fans and the difference in noise is remarkable - the psu and graphics card fans are barely audible.
I have also discovered there is an opening for an exhaust fan, but this is covered by a platic "dummy" for want of a better word.
My main thoughts would be to install a nice quiet 120mm fan at the back and basically switch off the reqally noisy (and very difficult to get to) front fan. Then perhaps replace the cpu fan with a fanless option (the Ninja seems very popular!).
However I don't know how measure the effect this will have on the temp - I really am a noob.
Please offer any advice you can on my thoughts, options and of course the best way to measure/monitor temp.
thanks in advance
I have an "off the shelf" Evesham pc with an AMD64 2800+, 160g maxtor hardrive and a Radeon 9000(?) graphics card.
I have read the Newbie FAQ's and done as much searching as I can and have discovered the following.
The main noise comes from the fan at the front of the PC - I think it is and air intake and it sits right in front of the hard drive.
The next most noisy is the fan on the mobo - which is a standard 80mm. I have managed to stop both of these fans and the difference in noise is remarkable - the psu and graphics card fans are barely audible.
I have also discovered there is an opening for an exhaust fan, but this is covered by a platic "dummy" for want of a better word.
My main thoughts would be to install a nice quiet 120mm fan at the back and basically switch off the reqally noisy (and very difficult to get to) front fan. Then perhaps replace the cpu fan with a fanless option (the Ninja seems very popular!).
However I don't know how measure the effect this will have on the temp - I really am a noob.
Please offer any advice you can on my thoughts, options and of course the best way to measure/monitor temp.
thanks in advance
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
Re: Reducing noise and monitoring temperature?
Hi!BB wrote:I have to admit that is was only recently I even discovered it was possible to reduce the noise of my PC. Since then of course my perception of how noisy it is has increased enormously.
I have an "off the shelf" Evesham pc with an AMD64 2800+, 160g maxtor hardrive and a Radeon 9000(?) graphics card.
I have read the Newbie FAQ's and done as much searching as I can and have discovered the following.
The main noise comes from the fan at the front of the PC - I think it is and air intake and it sits right in front of the hard drive.
The next most noisy is the fan on the mobo - which is a standard 80mm. I have managed to stop both of these fans and the difference in noise is remarkable - the psu and graphics card fans are barely audible.
I have also discovered there is an opening for an exhaust fan, but this is covered by a platic "dummy" for want of a better word.
My main thoughts would be to install a nice quiet 120mm fan at the back and basically switch off the reqally noisy (and very difficult to get to) front fan. Then perhaps replace the cpu fan with a fanless option (the Ninja seems very popular!).
However I don't know how measure the effect this will have on the temp - I really am a noob.
Please offer any advice you can on my thoughts, options and of course the best way to measure/monitor temp.
thanks in advance
Well, as for exhaust fan. A 120mm Nexus, or Noctua 1200rpm version, lowered to 850 rpm, using a fan speed regulator like Zalman Fanmate II,
will be a very silent soloution for exhaust.
Removing the stamped fan grilles, will improve the airflow and lower the noise. Just tape a small, but strong plastic bag securly around the inside of the fan hole before you cut / snip out those grilles.
And check the case throughout, for any metal shards, that may have escaped into the case. Metal is after all electrical conductive.
If you feel the need of a finger guard for the exhaust fan? Get one made out of rounded wire instead. This will at least be better than the stamped one.
Test if you can run the PC without front fan? By shutting it down first, before you remove it. Of coarce this wont tell you the whole story, as you still have the intake fan in there. But anyways.
IF, you see that you will have to use an intake fan anyway? Then a 80mm Sharkoon Silent eagle 2000 or a 92mm Nexus will be a good choise.
Before you get the Ninja, measure the distance between motherboard and the side panel.
The Ninja is 110 x 110 x 150. So you probably wanna have a couple of centimeters between the top of the Ninja and side panel.
As I'm not sure how this case is airflow vice? It could be a good idea, to get a Nexus 120mm for the Ninja too. If you are getting the Ninja Plus rev. B. The included Scythe fan, is unfortuntly not especially silent. It have a low pitched humming to it, even at lower rpm.
If such a big heatsink as the Ninja happends not to fit your case? then an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 will. The Freezer 64, is also unidirectional. As it's rotateable ( see the manual). And make sure you have the back of the Freezer aimed at the exhaust fan for best heat disposial.
This is a cheap heatsink / fan combo, that will be noticable more silent than your stock dito, and cool the cpu a lot better. Not as good as the Ninja though.
You can make the videocard more quiet, by getting a Zalman VF 900 CU for your 9000 card. Check compability at Zalman home.
The VF 900 CU, is very quiet at low to mid speed. And still will give very good cooling performance.
Also get Arctic Silver Ceramique Thermal paste for the vga cooler. This will further drop the gpu temperature by 2-3 degrees when it have settled after some time. This paste is also very good for the cpu. AC Ceramique is not electrical conductive, like Arctic Silver 5 for ex.
Spread the paste over the top of the cpu or gpu in a paper thin, even layer. Do not use your fingers or a metal object doing this!
A good strategy, when mounting the Zalman vga cooler, is to mount the RAM (memory) sinks first. And letting them settle for some hours before mouting the cooler. Othervise, you risk that the RAM sinks come off easily by accident.
Clean the gpu and RAM with either oilfree Acetone or Isoprophyl alcohol and a lint free cloth throughout before you mount anything onto the card.
Those cleaning fluids, are also good for removing old thermal paste on the cpu.
Make sure you have the cables in the case out of the way of the fans / intake. This will prevent disruption of the airflow thru the case.
The broad IDE cables for the HDDs and the cd drive is easy to fold neatly out of the way. You can fold them pretty hard, without the cable taking any damage. Othervice, it could be a good idea to get rounded IDE cables instead.
Mount the harddrive with rubber or silicone grommets, between hd and hd cage. This will prevent vibrations.
Mount the fan with rubber cords instead of screws. This will also prevent vibrations from fan to case. Especially if the case is made of aluminium.
A good temperature monitor software, is "motherboard monitor 5".
http://www.majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=311
If you dont know wich Radeon 9000 card you have?
Then download this:
http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
This will tell you all about your hardware.
When fiddeling with hardware. Always make sure you are free from static electrisity. This, by grabbing a water tap or kitchen sink, Or the best alternative, get an antistatic wrist strap with a grounding cord. It does'nt take much static electrisity to fry something inside your pc.
Such a strap, costs about 5 bucks down at Wal Mart.
Wow,
thanks for such an informative response where?wolf.
I have downloaded teh monitoring programs you recommended and will test thst out tonight - as well as measuring the case.
I think initially I'll go for an exhaust fan and a quieter more efficient cpu heatsink. I hope that will reduce teh noise enough for me - but if not I'll move on t what looks like the more complex graphics card cooling.
I have a feeling that I may get bitten by this bug and end up doing that anyway
I'll keep you posted on how this goes - thanks again for your helpful advice
thanks for such an informative response where?wolf.
I have downloaded teh monitoring programs you recommended and will test thst out tonight - as well as measuring the case.
I think initially I'll go for an exhaust fan and a quieter more efficient cpu heatsink. I hope that will reduce teh noise enough for me - but if not I'll move on t what looks like the more complex graphics card cooling.
I have a feeling that I may get bitten by this bug and end up doing that anyway
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I'll keep you posted on how this goes - thanks again for your helpful advice
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
Hi again.
You're welcome.
Well, if you're looking for a more modern videocard? Then this is a good and silent soloution:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814125039
Yeah, it would be interesting to hear how your modding goes?
See ya!
W?W
You're welcome.
Well, if you're looking for a more modern videocard? Then this is a good and silent soloution:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814125039
Yeah, it would be interesting to hear how your modding goes?
See ya!
W?W
Well, a few things to report...
Have successfully downloaded the everest and the MMB files and now know all hardware etc I have on my PC
Clearly I forgot what I originally configured as it appears I have an ATI radeon x800 praphics card not a 9000 as previously mentioned.
However, my main concern is over temperature, as the MBM software is telling me I have a case temp of 31c (which currently feels vey cool to teh touch)and a cpu temp of 127c which seems somewhat excessive.
Any advice on what I may need to change to get a more accurate reading, or is my PC actually a latent volcano?
cheers
Have successfully downloaded the everest and the MMB files and now know all hardware etc I have on my PC
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
Clearly I forgot what I originally configured as it appears I have an ATI radeon x800 praphics card not a 9000 as previously mentioned.
However, my main concern is over temperature, as the MBM software is telling me I have a case temp of 31c (which currently feels vey cool to teh touch)and a cpu temp of 127c which seems somewhat excessive.
Any advice on what I may need to change to get a more accurate reading, or is my PC actually a latent volcano?
cheers
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
Hi again!
A X800 is much better , as it's after all a more modern card.
Then the Zalman VF900 CU still will fit your card.
The case temp (idle or load?) is very good.
But OMG!!!
127C!? You are sure it is'nt Fahrenheit? That must be a flaky cpu temp sensor on your motherboard. If that temp your cpu shows in MBM 5, would have been correct reading? That AMD 3200 would had been toast long ago. ( AMD64 cpu's have a "danger treshold" about 65C) A high load temperature (load = when the cpu is working hard) is about max 60C. If it's a pretty bad cpu cooler (or dust clogged heatsink), and the airflow thru the case is'nt that good. Or it's like 30C + in the room.
My AMD 3000+ overclocked 400 MHz is 49 - 50C ( max load) When gaming or virus scanning for ex. (Ninja heatsink, no fan. Just ducted to the rear exhaust) That's about what a good heatsink with fan should have on a cpu like yours, at stock speed with decent room temp.
Head into BIOS. This you do by tapping the "delete key" at the very first screen you see when booting. Not the Windows dito. The one before that.
On some computers it could also be the F1 or F2 or even the "escape" key.
Navigate inside Bios using the arrow keys.
You should have some temperature monitor there. Maybe just as in my bios, called PC Health?
IF it says the same as Motherboard monitor 5? Then the cpu temp sensor for sure is kaputt.
A X800 is much better , as it's after all a more modern card.
Then the Zalman VF900 CU still will fit your card.
The case temp (idle or load?) is very good.
But OMG!!!
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
My AMD 3000+ overclocked 400 MHz is 49 - 50C ( max load) When gaming or virus scanning for ex. (Ninja heatsink, no fan. Just ducted to the rear exhaust) That's about what a good heatsink with fan should have on a cpu like yours, at stock speed with decent room temp.
Head into BIOS. This you do by tapping the "delete key" at the very first screen you see when booting. Not the Windows dito. The one before that.
On some computers it could also be the F1 or F2 or even the "escape" key.
Navigate inside Bios using the arrow keys.
You should have some temperature monitor there. Maybe just as in my bios, called PC Health?
IF it says the same as Motherboard monitor 5? Then the cpu temp sensor for sure is kaputt.
Really useful help guys - thanks.
So checked teh bios and processor temp was 38c - phew!.
Then downloaded pc wizard which confirmed that processor temp is 38c and HDD temp is 35c.
rechecked mbm 5 and still getting 127c for processor and it's also picking up a temp of -6c so eitehr I set it up wrong or else it just doesn;t like my PC.
anyhow, now happy that my pc is cool. I have ordered an artic cooling freezer 64 and an acoustic 120mm fan (for exhaust). Hopefuly this will enable me to turn off the incredibly noisy front case fan and have a still cool, but now quiet pc - I'll let you know.
thanks to W?W and jaganath
So checked teh bios and processor temp was 38c - phew!.
Then downloaded pc wizard which confirmed that processor temp is 38c and HDD temp is 35c.
rechecked mbm 5 and still getting 127c for processor and it's also picking up a temp of -6c so eitehr I set it up wrong or else it just doesn;t like my PC.
anyhow, now happy that my pc is cool. I have ordered an artic cooling freezer 64 and an acoustic 120mm fan (for exhaust). Hopefuly this will enable me to turn off the incredibly noisy front case fan and have a still cool, but now quiet pc - I'll let you know.
thanks to W?W and jaganath
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
Hi Guys,
thought I'd post an update - and pose a couple of questions.
Have successfully installed the artic 64 pro cooler and disconnected the tiny and annoying front case fan. I have positioned the new artic fan so that it points to the back of the case, and in fact it is only a few inches away from the rear exhaust grill - so near that my new 120mm fan would only just fit - I decided not to fit at as having two fans just 1 or 2 cms apart didn't seem a good idea.
I also removed the nasty plastic duct and cover from the side of the case (previously this was "routing" the air from the od heatsink fan) which seems to have opened up more airflow
With these changes temps are much improved - at initial idle there has been between a 5 and 10 degree C reduction.
CPU down to 29 from 39
Harddrive down to 34 from 39(despite removing the fan right in front of it)
PSU to 16 from 26!
Case to 30 from 39
As importantly an excellent reduction in noise.
I do however have a couple of questions which I would be grateful for any insight on.
The new cpu heatsink has a 4 pin plug on it and I couldn't find any of these of my mobo - I tested it on the 3 pin that the old HS was in and it works - however it now doesn't register on the "PC wizard" monitor. I am abit concerned about not using teh right plug - did I get lucky here, do I need an adapter or is it ok?
I have noticed that my PSU fan is spinning at over 7000 rpm - given the very low temps (16c idle), I'd like to be able to slow this down to reduce noise - can I use a "fanmate, or am I looking at something more complicated.
I think I might be getting the bug
Apologies for the long note, but thanks in advance for any advice.
thought I'd post an update - and pose a couple of questions.
Have successfully installed the artic 64 pro cooler and disconnected the tiny and annoying front case fan. I have positioned the new artic fan so that it points to the back of the case, and in fact it is only a few inches away from the rear exhaust grill - so near that my new 120mm fan would only just fit - I decided not to fit at as having two fans just 1 or 2 cms apart didn't seem a good idea.
I also removed the nasty plastic duct and cover from the side of the case (previously this was "routing" the air from the od heatsink fan) which seems to have opened up more airflow
With these changes temps are much improved - at initial idle there has been between a 5 and 10 degree C reduction.
CPU down to 29 from 39
Harddrive down to 34 from 39(despite removing the fan right in front of it)
PSU to 16 from 26!
Case to 30 from 39
As importantly an excellent reduction in noise.
I do however have a couple of questions which I would be grateful for any insight on.
The new cpu heatsink has a 4 pin plug on it and I couldn't find any of these of my mobo - I tested it on the 3 pin that the old HS was in and it works - however it now doesn't register on the "PC wizard" monitor. I am abit concerned about not using teh right plug - did I get lucky here, do I need an adapter or is it ok?
I have noticed that my PSU fan is spinning at over 7000 rpm - given the very low temps (16c idle), I'd like to be able to slow this down to reduce noise - can I use a "fanmate, or am I looking at something more complicated.
I think I might be getting the bug
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Apologies for the long note, but thanks in advance for any advice.
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
Hi again!
Very nice!
Good temperature reduction.
But having the exhaust fan just a couple of cm away from the heatsink is just good. This will help, getting the hot air from the heatsink out of the case very fast. If I understood you correctly? You did'nt mount the exhaust fan in the case, due to the short distance? If you did'nt? And still does'nt wanna have the fan? You could also try to construct a simple duct, between the empty exhaust fan hole and the heatsink. Make it out of glossy cardboard and some duct tape for ex.
Thats the same way I have my Ninja heatsink (with no fan), connected to the rear exhaust fan. Just the other way around.
Just try to make the corners on the inside of the duct as round as possible. And that it sits tight against the sides of the heatsink and case.
Well I have the opposite problem with my cpu fan connector on the mobo.
I have a 4 pin connector, wich until recently whas'nt too common.
And most fans are 3 pin. So I can't use Speedfan software to regulate the speed. Rpm reporting only. But Arctic C., seems to have choosen the 4 pin for the Freezer. I have'nt found a 3 pin male and 4 pin female, mobo cpu fan connector cable yet ( You will need 4 pin male fan plug to 3 pin female fan plug cable instead to have rpm reporting) . Maybe you could have one made for you at a PC service station? But if not? It's still o.k. You will "just" lack rpm reporting.
I think you will have to swap the fan in the Psu, to someting more slow spinning ( 80mm fan?). You cant regulate the psu fan, unless there is a speed knob on the psu. I think you will find articles on how to swap fans here at the forum.
If it's an 80mm fan? Then, both Nexus and Noctua have such silent fans for you.
Very nice!
Good temperature reduction.
But having the exhaust fan just a couple of cm away from the heatsink is just good. This will help, getting the hot air from the heatsink out of the case very fast. If I understood you correctly? You did'nt mount the exhaust fan in the case, due to the short distance? If you did'nt? And still does'nt wanna have the fan? You could also try to construct a simple duct, between the empty exhaust fan hole and the heatsink. Make it out of glossy cardboard and some duct tape for ex.
Thats the same way I have my Ninja heatsink (with no fan), connected to the rear exhaust fan. Just the other way around.
Just try to make the corners on the inside of the duct as round as possible. And that it sits tight against the sides of the heatsink and case.
Well I have the opposite problem with my cpu fan connector on the mobo.
I have a 4 pin connector, wich until recently whas'nt too common.
And most fans are 3 pin. So I can't use Speedfan software to regulate the speed. Rpm reporting only. But Arctic C., seems to have choosen the 4 pin for the Freezer. I have'nt found a 3 pin male and 4 pin female, mobo cpu fan connector cable yet ( You will need 4 pin male fan plug to 3 pin female fan plug cable instead to have rpm reporting) . Maybe you could have one made for you at a PC service station? But if not? It's still o.k. You will "just" lack rpm reporting.
I think you will have to swap the fan in the Psu, to someting more slow spinning ( 80mm fan?). You cant regulate the psu fan, unless there is a speed knob on the psu. I think you will find articles on how to swap fans here at the forum.
If it's an 80mm fan? Then, both Nexus and Noctua have such silent fans for you.
Thanks again where?wolf!
The other issue with the 120mm fan was that there were no holes to fit it to (fitting is designed for an 80mm), but given you're thoughts on moving air quickly away from the heatsink I may get the drill out and try this. I was mainly worried about increasing air turbulence and therefore noise.
I'll carry on searching for a 4 to 43pin adapter, as it would be nice to see the rpm and fully utilise the PWM feature.
I think the next step maybe to cut down the noise from the HDD which is now the nest noisiest - who knows afetr that I may have a go at the VGU fan
starting to wonder if this will ever end
thanks again for you help
The other issue with the 120mm fan was that there were no holes to fit it to (fitting is designed for an 80mm), but given you're thoughts on moving air quickly away from the heatsink I may get the drill out and try this. I was mainly worried about increasing air turbulence and therefore noise.
I'll carry on searching for a 4 to 43pin adapter, as it would be nice to see the rpm and fully utilise the PWM feature.
I think the next step maybe to cut down the noise from the HDD which is now the nest noisiest - who knows afetr that I may have a go at the VGU fan
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
starting to wonder if this will ever end
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
thanks again for you help
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
BB wrote:Thanks again where?wolf!
The other issue with the 120mm fan was that there were no holes to fit it to (fitting is designed for an 80mm), but given you're thoughts on moving air quickly away from the heatsink I may get the drill out and try this. I was mainly worried about increasing air turbulence and therefore noise.
I'll carry on searching for a 4 to 3pin adapter, as it would be nice to see the rpm and fully utilise the PWM feature.
I think the next step maybe to cut down the noise from the HDD which is now the nest noisiest - who knows afetr that I may have a go at the VGU fan![]()
starting to wonder if this will ever end![]()
thanks again for you help
Hi again.
You could get a 80 to 120mm fan adapter and mount it on the outside of the case you know. This will be a lot easier, than resize the fan hole.
Check this out.
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556056423.html
When you are looking for the 4 pin female fan connector / 3 pin male fan connector cable. Make sure it is'nt 3 pin fan to 4 pin Molex connector! This will only allow you to hook the fan to one of the 4 pin power Molex connectors from the psu.
Try to use rubber or silcone grommets between hd and hd cage. Dont over due the tightning of the screws . Then you will loose the damping effect of the grommet. Or, suspend the hd, using "Stretch Magic" 1.8 or 1.5 mm cords inside the hd cage. Maybe also add a couple of broad foam strips for additional damping.
#
starting to wonder if this will ever end?#
Well, it wont. Just look at the elder members of this community.
Or in worst case you go nuts....like me.
The funny farms are full of people. Who tried to get their computers very quiet. That's why such institutions have a "quiet room", with VERY thick "wallpaper" lol.
You're welcome.
Last edited by where?wolf on Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Oh dear, another poor soul trapped in the quiet abyss...
BB, do you have a cost consideration with the noise? Obviously there is always a limit but how much does the noise matter to you? Once you start listening you will find noise everywhere.
PSUs are one of the harder things to affect. I bought a Seasonic 430w (or was it 450... I forget) and that is whisper quiet. Only about £45, great quality and cables and more than enough power for your setup (people get carried away with power requirements and think that having two HDs is an instant call for a 600W PSU).
Case fans are easy. Go for something like a nexus preferably (anything more expensive probably isn't worth it) and then find some way to slightly reduce the voltage/rpms. In terms of cost, a cheaper fan at lower voltage will be quieter than the most expensive fan at full, so don't spend TOO much here. There are a bunch of ways to reduce fan voltages: personally I always buy Asus boards (great quality, tons of cables supplied) and they usually have something called Q-Fan, an EXCELLENT utility that automatically reduces fan speed based on temps. Most of the time my case fans are running at around 400-800rpm, and it even reduces the CPU fan. Other options include in-line resistors (7v is usually a good volateg to run fans at) or software that can regulate fan speeds (speedfan is one, but you need 3-pin fan headers plugged into your MB) Not all MBs can regulate fan speeds...
Cutting out bad case fan grills makes a surprising reduction to the air flow noise, just replace with a wire grill, as mentioned previously. I actually DO have a front case fan as well but it is on very low and is mainly to help cool the HDs (I used to have Maxtors that got very hot and died, so paranoid now). Really I could probably do away with the front fan and just stick with a rear one nicely drawing the air out of the case. You need to try and have a smooth airflow path, usually low front, through case and over components, to high rear, where it is exhausted by the fan. Try to remove cables and things from the air flow path where possible.
I found that the PSU noise (replaced the PSU with a Seasonic, not keen on toying with PSU) and the graphics card were the noisiest components. Short of watercooling I recommend a Zalman VF900 (NOT the more expensive fancy one that has a faster and noisier fan). I have just got one and it really is VERY quiet, when on low (zalman fanmate2 comes with it) and not too bad on higher really.
If you are very keen you could use acoustic foam but the only decent stuff that i know of is the Acousti products stuff. I have some in my case and it is good but for most people more cost and hassle than necessary. My key advantage from it is that it adds bulk to my light aluminium case panels, so it stops them vibrating. Thicker steel has more bulk and suffers less from vibration.
As for CPU heatsinks: the Scythe Ninja is the reigning champion for quiet but there are a few that should suffice. I have a Zalman 7700AlCu that is effectively silent when ramped down. Not worth the cost of changing to a Ninja unless I really get keen. I think I'd move to a Zalman Reserator (water cooling) before doing that.
Just keep an eye on temps, particularly under heavy use. Make sure that there is plenty of room for airflow around the case and give it a clean every now and again.
Have fun.![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
BB, do you have a cost consideration with the noise? Obviously there is always a limit but how much does the noise matter to you? Once you start listening you will find noise everywhere.
PSUs are one of the harder things to affect. I bought a Seasonic 430w (or was it 450... I forget) and that is whisper quiet. Only about £45, great quality and cables and more than enough power for your setup (people get carried away with power requirements and think that having two HDs is an instant call for a 600W PSU).
Case fans are easy. Go for something like a nexus preferably (anything more expensive probably isn't worth it) and then find some way to slightly reduce the voltage/rpms. In terms of cost, a cheaper fan at lower voltage will be quieter than the most expensive fan at full, so don't spend TOO much here. There are a bunch of ways to reduce fan voltages: personally I always buy Asus boards (great quality, tons of cables supplied) and they usually have something called Q-Fan, an EXCELLENT utility that automatically reduces fan speed based on temps. Most of the time my case fans are running at around 400-800rpm, and it even reduces the CPU fan. Other options include in-line resistors (7v is usually a good volateg to run fans at) or software that can regulate fan speeds (speedfan is one, but you need 3-pin fan headers plugged into your MB) Not all MBs can regulate fan speeds...
Cutting out bad case fan grills makes a surprising reduction to the air flow noise, just replace with a wire grill, as mentioned previously. I actually DO have a front case fan as well but it is on very low and is mainly to help cool the HDs (I used to have Maxtors that got very hot and died, so paranoid now). Really I could probably do away with the front fan and just stick with a rear one nicely drawing the air out of the case. You need to try and have a smooth airflow path, usually low front, through case and over components, to high rear, where it is exhausted by the fan. Try to remove cables and things from the air flow path where possible.
I found that the PSU noise (replaced the PSU with a Seasonic, not keen on toying with PSU) and the graphics card were the noisiest components. Short of watercooling I recommend a Zalman VF900 (NOT the more expensive fancy one that has a faster and noisier fan). I have just got one and it really is VERY quiet, when on low (zalman fanmate2 comes with it) and not too bad on higher really.
If you are very keen you could use acoustic foam but the only decent stuff that i know of is the Acousti products stuff. I have some in my case and it is good but for most people more cost and hassle than necessary. My key advantage from it is that it adds bulk to my light aluminium case panels, so it stops them vibrating. Thicker steel has more bulk and suffers less from vibration.
As for CPU heatsinks: the Scythe Ninja is the reigning champion for quiet but there are a few that should suffice. I have a Zalman 7700AlCu that is effectively silent when ramped down. Not worth the cost of changing to a Ninja unless I really get keen. I think I'd move to a Zalman Reserator (water cooling) before doing that.
Just keep an eye on temps, particularly under heavy use. Make sure that there is plenty of room for airflow around the case and give it a clean every now and again.
Have fun.
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Nice one guys,
I like the idea of mounting the exhaust fan on the outside of the PC with the 80-120mm adapter, which elimates my concern about how close it would be to the cpu fan.
Looks like I need to bite the bullet and get some metal snips to take the rear grill out.
I think I'l leave the PSU for now - anotehr noise test last night confirmed that the HDD is the noisiest component followed by the graphics card.
Even with changes made so far teh difference is incredible - and I'm sure before I started I would have said I would have been happy with the new noise levels - unfortunately it appears I am hooked!
Thanks W?W and NeilBell for your advice, what an excellent forum this is.
I like the idea of mounting the exhaust fan on the outside of the PC with the 80-120mm adapter, which elimates my concern about how close it would be to the cpu fan.
Looks like I need to bite the bullet and get some metal snips to take the rear grill out.
I think I'l leave the PSU for now - anotehr noise test last night confirmed that the HDD is the noisiest component followed by the graphics card.
Even with changes made so far teh difference is incredible - and I'm sure before I started I would have said I would have been happy with the new noise levels - unfortunately it appears I am hooked!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Thanks W?W and NeilBell for your advice, what an excellent forum this is.
Cheers BB. Mostly we like to just ramble about the strange things that we have learned in our inner (silent) sanctums. A little appreciation is the icing on the cake.
If you want a new HD then check out the SPCR drive reviews. When I last bought a new SATA drive the Samsung Spinpoint 250Gb was nice. Haven;t looked recently though. Whether you want a new drive or not, you should get some method of soft-mounting them. The really keen hang the drives in a webbing systems, which should remove all vibration being transferred to the case. I haven't gone that far because my case has rubber grommets. Some people even just sit the drive on the case bottom on some (non-static and thermally safe) foam, but you wouldn't want to move your case around =o.
If you have the room, setting up some webbing is pretty easy and (apparently) makes a big difference in a lot of cases (no pun intended). Use something that won't dry out and crack over time (no using standard elastic bands
).
A nifty trick that is cheaper than case foam is to tape a padded envelope (ya know the ones, we call them jiffy bags: Basically a large envelope with bubble wrap inside for posting stuff) and tape it to the inside of the removeable panel in your case. Sounds crazy but it can absorb a lot of the sound resonating in the case. Worth a shot but be careful not to block any air-flow or wedge it up against hot components.
If you get the air-flow under control in the case you MAY find that the PSU gets quieter anyway, since most have some kind of thermistor built in. Once the cas air is cooler it won't ramp the PSU fan up as much.
After the HD, you will probably find that the video card and the PSU compete for top (noise) dog.
Btw BB, you mentioned wanting a 4 pin (molex) to 3 pin (fan header) converter. This is fine BUT the molex is power only, so if you convert it, then all you convert is the power connection (you can now use the fan headers on the MB. AFAIK the fan itself is the one that sends rpm info, so if it doesn't have 3 pin at all then you can't get the rpm data.
My suggestion is to either get some new fans with 3 pin headers (Nexus are nice) or... well, I can send you a spare 120mm Acousti fan. One of the older clear ones but still good. Not very quiet on full (high rpm), which is why I changed to nexus, but good air-flow and nice smooth motor so reducing rpms makes them nice and quiet
You would still need to get either software or a resistor to reduce rpms. No charge, they are sitting around unused, just send me your address (don't post on here, send me a private message. You are UK I believe...).
If you want a new HD then check out the SPCR drive reviews. When I last bought a new SATA drive the Samsung Spinpoint 250Gb was nice. Haven;t looked recently though. Whether you want a new drive or not, you should get some method of soft-mounting them. The really keen hang the drives in a webbing systems, which should remove all vibration being transferred to the case. I haven't gone that far because my case has rubber grommets. Some people even just sit the drive on the case bottom on some (non-static and thermally safe) foam, but you wouldn't want to move your case around =o.
If you have the room, setting up some webbing is pretty easy and (apparently) makes a big difference in a lot of cases (no pun intended). Use something that won't dry out and crack over time (no using standard elastic bands
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
A nifty trick that is cheaper than case foam is to tape a padded envelope (ya know the ones, we call them jiffy bags: Basically a large envelope with bubble wrap inside for posting stuff) and tape it to the inside of the removeable panel in your case. Sounds crazy but it can absorb a lot of the sound resonating in the case. Worth a shot but be careful not to block any air-flow or wedge it up against hot components.
If you get the air-flow under control in the case you MAY find that the PSU gets quieter anyway, since most have some kind of thermistor built in. Once the cas air is cooler it won't ramp the PSU fan up as much.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Btw BB, you mentioned wanting a 4 pin (molex) to 3 pin (fan header) converter. This is fine BUT the molex is power only, so if you convert it, then all you convert is the power connection (you can now use the fan headers on the MB. AFAIK the fan itself is the one that sends rpm info, so if it doesn't have 3 pin at all then you can't get the rpm data.
My suggestion is to either get some new fans with 3 pin headers (Nexus are nice) or... well, I can send you a spare 120mm Acousti fan. One of the older clear ones but still good. Not very quiet on full (high rpm), which is why I changed to nexus, but good air-flow and nice smooth motor so reducing rpms makes them nice and quiet
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
BB wrote:Nice one guys,
I like the idea of mounting the exhaust fan on the outside of the PC with the 80-120mm adapter, which elimates my concern about how close it would be to the cpu fan.
Looks like I need to bite the bullet and get some metal snips to take the rear grill out.
I think I'l leave the PSU for now - anotehr noise test last night confirmed that the HDD is the noisiest component followed by the graphics card.
Even with changes made so far teh difference is incredible - and I'm sure before I started I would have said I would have been happy with the new noise levels - unfortunately it appears I am hooked!![]()
Thanks W?W and NeilBell for your advice, what an excellent forum this is.
You're welcome. It's just fun, trying to help a fellow SPCR member out.
Unfortunatly I did'nt notice that you are from England before.
So here is a good U.K pc hardware shop that have this fan adapter.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showprodu ... =FG-022-AK
They also have the silent Zalman VF 900CU, videocard cooler for your X800 videocard.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showprodu ... =SY-008-ZA
But I can't find that fan cable / adapter you are looking for there. I belive more and more, you will have to have it custom made for you.
Cheers! W?W
EDIT. I happend to re-read your post, when you told us that you have mounted the new cooling stuff. And I whas struck by a horrible suspicion that you may have missunderstood the direction of the Freezer towards the exhaust fan?
quoute # I have positioned the new artic fan so that it points to the back of the case#
You did'nt mount the Freezer with the fan facing the exhaust fan I hope?
I meant with the back of the Freezer (the non fan side) facing the exhaust.
Thanks for the input guys - it really is helping. I hope I haven't confused you but might be worth reiterating where I was and what I've done.
Basically the main change has been taking out the old cpu heatsink/fan and replacing with an artic cooling 64 pro. The included instructions suggested positioning the fan so that it moved air to the back of the case - which is what I did by pointing the fan toward the gril at the back (sounds like this might be wrong?).
The CPU is positioned quite near the back - close to where this a space for an exhaust fan - however there was no fan there only a plastic guard thing (I Have now removed this).
The new cpu Heatsink has a 4 pin ada[ter (not molex) which I have had to put into a 3-pin slot on the mobo - this works, but I don't get a reading of rpm for this now.
I also bought a 120mm acuostifan (thank you so much for the offer Neilbell - very generous but mine arrived on Tuesday!
)but I would need to mod the case to fit it - so the suggestion of mounting externally on an adapter wold be good. If i fit this inside the fan would be about 1cm away from te new cpu fan!
The other change was to disconnect the small and incredibly loud front intake fan which is basically right next to the HDD.
Having done all of the above the temp has reduced by about 10 degrees C - average 30 across all components.
So, my next task is to quieten the HDD. Whilst I don'thave a huge budget for these changes I would be happy to spend £20 or so on a good encolsure - particularly as I could reuse this in the future - but is it worth it?
Once I've done this, all you comments seem to point toward teh Zalman graphics card cooler - I'll see if I need this once the HDD is quieter.
I wish I could post photos, but my digital camera "broke" at the weekend - refuses to recognise any memory cards (canon ixus 4 if anyone has any thoughts !). Hopefully I can post some pictures soon.
Thanks again all for your patience - I'm really enjoying this!
Basically the main change has been taking out the old cpu heatsink/fan and replacing with an artic cooling 64 pro. The included instructions suggested positioning the fan so that it moved air to the back of the case - which is what I did by pointing the fan toward the gril at the back (sounds like this might be wrong?).
The CPU is positioned quite near the back - close to where this a space for an exhaust fan - however there was no fan there only a plastic guard thing (I Have now removed this).
The new cpu Heatsink has a 4 pin ada[ter (not molex) which I have had to put into a 3-pin slot on the mobo - this works, but I don't get a reading of rpm for this now.
I also bought a 120mm acuostifan (thank you so much for the offer Neilbell - very generous but mine arrived on Tuesday!
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
The other change was to disconnect the small and incredibly loud front intake fan which is basically right next to the HDD.
Having done all of the above the temp has reduced by about 10 degrees C - average 30 across all components.
So, my next task is to quieten the HDD. Whilst I don'thave a huge budget for these changes I would be happy to spend £20 or so on a good encolsure - particularly as I could reuse this in the future - but is it worth it?
Once I've done this, all you comments seem to point toward teh Zalman graphics card cooler - I'll see if I need this once the HDD is quieter.
I wish I could post photos, but my digital camera "broke" at the weekend - refuses to recognise any memory cards (canon ixus 4 if anyone has any thoughts !). Hopefully I can post some pictures soon.
Thanks again all for your patience - I'm really enjoying this!
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
Hi again.
No, The Freezer, should be positioned, so the Freezer fan blows air thru the heatsink (over the heatsink fins) and towards the exhaust. So probably you have the AC Freezer the other way around.
See this picture below, of how it should be mounted.
Here is a vibration damping kit for both harddrives and fans that probably is better than a hd silencing case. From what I have read, those are'nt that good and makes the hd temp go up.
http://www.komplett.co.uk/k/ki.asp?sku=311521
![Image](http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9275/acfreezer64proin2b14365uc5.jpg)
No, The Freezer, should be positioned, so the Freezer fan blows air thru the heatsink (over the heatsink fins) and towards the exhaust. So probably you have the AC Freezer the other way around.
See this picture below, of how it should be mounted.
Here is a vibration damping kit for both harddrives and fans that probably is better than a hd silencing case. From what I have read, those are'nt that good and makes the hd temp go up.
http://www.komplett.co.uk/k/ki.asp?sku=311521
![Image](http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/9275/acfreezer64proin2b14365uc5.jpg)
oh dear oh dear
What hope is there for me if I can't put a heatsink on the right way round!?
Thanks W?W - you were right. I'll switch it round tonight. Also my camera is working again so I'll post a couple of pics - may need some advice on how to remove the HDD to quiet it down as teh screws are totally inaccesible.
Thanks again for the help - as you now know I am a complete noob!
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
What hope is there for me if I can't put a heatsink on the right way round!?
Thanks W?W - you were right. I'll switch it round tonight. Also my camera is working again so I'll post a couple of pics - may need some advice on how to remove the HDD to quiet it down as teh screws are totally inaccesible.
Thanks again for the help - as you now know I am a complete noob!
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
No worries. It's from the misstakes we learn.
Well, if you look in the Freezer manual, you will see, that there is a small screw near the bottom plate (lever). If you loosen this, you can rotate the heatsink.
But you will have to dismount the heatsink in order to do this.
Run your pc for about 5 minutes first. This will soften up the thermal paste, and makes it less sticky.
And then, you will have to clean the cpu / heatsink plate, and apply some fresh paste again.
Check out this review of the Freezer. It got some good pictures on how to rotate it.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Arct ... zer64Pro/2
Well, if you look in the Freezer manual, you will see, that there is a small screw near the bottom plate (lever). If you loosen this, you can rotate the heatsink.
But you will have to dismount the heatsink in order to do this.
Run your pc for about 5 minutes first. This will soften up the thermal paste, and makes it less sticky.
And then, you will have to clean the cpu / heatsink plate, and apply some fresh paste again.
Check out this review of the Freezer. It got some good pictures on how to rotate it.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Arct ... zer64Pro/2
Last edited by where?wolf on Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
AS 5 is the very best paste. Very generous of that store to give you such a tube of paste for free. But it contains silver. So it's electrical conductive. Be careful with the amount. So you does'nt squirt it out on the mobo, when mounting the sink.
With AS 5, you will see a temperature reduction of 2 - 3 C about after a couple of weeks, when the paste have settled.
If this happens? Use oilfree Acetone or Isoprophyl alcohol to clean it up.
Just apply paste in the size of a big ricegrain in the centre of the cpu. The heatsink pressure will spread it for you.
Or use a semi stiff, piece of plastic to spread the paste in a paper thin layer over the top of the cpu.
Do not use your fingers. Then you mix up the paste with stuff from your skin.
With AS 5, you will see a temperature reduction of 2 - 3 C about after a couple of weeks, when the paste have settled.
If this happens? Use oilfree Acetone or Isoprophyl alcohol to clean it up.
Just apply paste in the size of a big ricegrain in the centre of the cpu. The heatsink pressure will spread it for you.
Or use a semi stiff, piece of plastic to spread the paste in a paper thin layer over the top of the cpu.
Do not use your fingers. Then you mix up the paste with stuff from your skin.
Juast a quick update - and another huge thanks to where?wolf.
Have now installed the artic 64 cooler the right way round
Based on temperature monitoring and some noise tests with rubber gromets I have installed a scythe quiet HDD enclosure - really really big difference in noise and under load a temp of 41c (which I think is ok?).
Having done some more research on the forums I have purchased some Wiss tin snips and will be cutting out the back fan grill this weekend and popping in a 120mm acousti exhaust fan - Hopefully I 'll be able to post some pics soon.
Well and truly bitten by the bug, still incompetent, but learning!
Have now installed the artic 64 cooler the right way round
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Based on temperature monitoring and some noise tests with rubber gromets I have installed a scythe quiet HDD enclosure - really really big difference in noise and under load a temp of 41c (which I think is ok?).
Having done some more research on the forums I have purchased some Wiss tin snips and will be cutting out the back fan grill this weekend and popping in a 120mm acousti exhaust fan - Hopefully I 'll be able to post some pics soon.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Well and truly bitten by the bug, still incompetent, but learning!
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden
Hi again!
You're welcome.
Very , very nice temp! No reason at all to worrie there at all.
Many, would be glad to have such a load temp.
And you will probably see the cpu temp creep down under 40C then, when the AS 5 paste have settled after a couple of weeks.
And I guess, that you wondered, for a split second if the pc where on at all? After installing the Scythe hd silenser and booting up for the first time.
It will be interesting to see those photos, after you are finished modding.
looking forward to see them.
Cheers,
W?W
You're welcome.
Very , very nice temp! No reason at all to worrie there at all.
Many, would be glad to have such a load temp.
And you will probably see the cpu temp creep down under 40C then, when the AS 5 paste have settled after a couple of weeks.
And I guess, that you wondered, for a split second if the pc where on at all? After installing the Scythe hd silenser and booting up for the first time.
It will be interesting to see those photos, after you are finished modding.
looking forward to see them.
Cheers,
W?W
-
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 5:10 am
- Location: Southern Sweden