I'd say in terms of pure performance Noctua would be the winner here. It's bigger, has a 14 cm fan, it's mounting mechanism will provide better contact.

Still, I'd myself be very tempted to just give it a try. I'm pretty sure the temps would be OK and safe and that you wouldn't have to run the fan at some ungodly speed.

I gues it all boils down to what CPU you'd like to use and whether you'll be overclocking it.

hi, i realize this thread is old yet keep getting revived every few months

i was wondering what is the latest and most current consensus regarding mounting the ninja plus revB to a haswell (socket 1150) build?

im planning to build a hackintosh based on a 4770k and a Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H and was wondering if it is worth trying to use my never used ninja for this project or should i just buy a modern heatsink? (mostly concerned with temps as
im planning to OC the cpu to 4.0ghz and use two nexus 120mm fans.)
(there will also be a asus gtx 660 ti in the mix)

i guess thats a no?

For the Ninja plus rev B, the version using screws to attach different mounting brackets for different CPU sockets, all you need is the Scythe Mugen 2 LGA1156 Mounting Kit which can be ordered from Scythe. I paid 8€ incl. shipping and I'm using it with an Orochi.

If I'm not mistaken, LGA 1150 shares the same mounting holes configuration with LGA 1155/1156, so here is what you can do: Use the push-pins or use M4 screws, nuts and insulated washers.
Hope it helps.

LE: I'm not 100% sure right now, but I seem to remember that the Mugen 2 mounting kit doesn't work with the Ninja Plus rev. B, so I would check before ordering.

The Ninja Plus rev. B uses push-pins so a 1150/5/6 backplate kit such as this one from Sidewinder Computers could be used. It's a straight forward job to remove the push-pins and the backplate will potentially give better clamping pressure.

I cannot tell from the photos, is the sidewinder bracket metal or plastic?

From this picture it looks to be metal.

It's got to be metal, otherwise it would defeat the purpose. No plastic (read: in this price range) will even come close to steel's rigity. All backplates I've seen, even the most generic ones, were metal. Heck, even budget PCBs in motherboards are way more sturdy than plastic. Needles to say all backplates are padded, most often generously, with thick, stiff rubber. Or plastic, as in lodestar's first pic.

thats great news. thanx for the advice.

ill probably go with the plateless method that Benius linked to, however if I choose to go with the plate (assuming they ship to canada) that Lodestar suggested, will the 775 mount that comes with the ninja fit this plate?

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed info on this thread. In particular, kater's post was very helpful and I just used this exact technique to successfully mount an 8 year old SCNJ-1000P to a brand new LGA1150 board. Saved me from having to get a new cooler, and the new (passive) setup is already running 15-20C cooler than the stock Intel HSF.

SPCR is the best

I have the Ninja Revision B, I think I'm going to try that backplate and screws from Sidewinder. It looks like I won't need to do anything else. I do have an 1155 AsRock board with the 775 holes (H77M), but no way am I using the plastic pushpins, and I don't think a 775 backplate will work properly given the CPU plate on the back of the board.

EDIT: Oops, well it doesn't seem like that Sidewinder one exists any more, any ideas on a backplate+screws for 1155?

There is an equivalent kit (plastic backplate) from this source. Despite the references elsewhere on the page this is clearly an 1150/55/56 backplate but it might take a while to ship from Hong Kong. But maybe grab it while you can...

A more expensive alternative could be combining those spring screws with either the Thermalright BTK-II or Prolimatech 1155 backplate.

I started with the Thermalright HR-01 Plus, and since it seems that, at least around here, no one has any "1155 Bolt Through Kit" in stock I got the socket 775 mount and tried to bend the feet... and broke one. One of those: .

Switched to my Ninja Plus Rev. B (SCNJ-1100P), got the socket 775 push pins out, and waited. I needed a 115x backplate so I bought a cheap Theta 115, stole it's backplate (I hope the plastic will hold up to the Ninjas' weight) and ripped it's bolts (literally ripped them by hand, the aluminium just bends a bit and they get out). Also, the bolts have a small blocking washer that needs to be removed. Now, everything is available but since the bolt springs are a bit smaller I needed some washers, I though I needed 4 per bolt, I bought 100 ( ~US$1.5 at a hardware store), dry tested it on the board with 8 per bolt and ended up using 10 per bolt (so while 100 seemed a lot I ended up using 40). Another thing that will get pretty obvious is that the washers will be hard to handle as they tend to fall so I patched them with some clear tape.

The final product:


And the general view:



And a question, shining a flash light on the sides of the socket, dry mounted cooler, showed me that light was coming out, so basically the base of the cooler and the CPU are not tight, now, I mounted it with Thermalright ChillFactor white stuff and 20 minutes of OCCT 4.4 only got me ~70 degrees Celsius. Should I be worried?

I have a Ninja mini from 2008 with push pins for a LGA775. The push pins go through the 775 socket adapter that shipped with the Ninja. If I were to obtain one of these backplate solutions to fit a 1150 socket, I still fail to see how you guys are installing the Ninja on the new boards if the holes for the push pins don't extend to the new slightly longer distance. One poster above mentioned something about hammering it out to extend the arms a bit, but is there any less ghetto of an option? Or, is the oval hole through which the push pins were used long enough to accommodate the extra length?

775 holes are 72 mm apart, 1155 etc. holes are 75 mm, AFAIR. This is only 3 mm. Also, pushpins / pins / screws are not thick enough to occupy the entire diameter of the holes in the mobo. So, they can be a little askew. Given their length this can buy us the 3-ish mm. Also, the oval holes in the metal arms have some leeway.

Instead of hammering these metal arms, as suggested before and practiced, you could use a small diameter drill to elomgate the oval holes. It would be more of a milling action than drilling, but you know what I mean. Anyway, there is still plenty of metal on the extremities of these arms so some of it could be removed without compromising them.

And then you just wiggle your way inside forgive the pun...

Dremel Tool for the win

Hey gang, great thread. I'm trying kater's solution with the Noctua NM-i3 Mounting Kit, however, I don't see to have the requisite 'bar' with two eyes on it that I'm supposed to cut...

Any ideas where to get such a bar ?

Context: I have the Scythe Ninja Plus Rev.B and all the original parts, was mounted on my (now dead) 775 mobo, and looking to install it on my 1150 mobo.

Thank in advance for any help.

Cheers.

Kater's solution should work fine with something like these which should screw into any back plate which has the M3 fitting. Even with the suggested backplate (which despite appearances does apparently have an insulating layer) this would only cost around $10 US. The Noctua NM-i3 backplate could maybe be feasible if it would take an M3 nut.

dano777, the bar (that I cut into separate eyes) is exclusive to the first version of Ninja, to Ninja Cu and also, I guess, it's used in Orochi; even if you can get the bar I'm not sure if there'll be a way to use it with your version

all in all, for you it's just best to follow lodestar's advice

what about ryzen am4?

Well, I still have the Ninja & full box, and I actually do have a Ryzen now, but I didn't really bother to check the possibilities of fitting these two. Seriously tho, just looking at the mounting system, I can't think of an easy way to do it. The Ninja has a square layout (75 x 75 now) and the AM4 is a rectangle (90 x 54). If you had your own metal working shop and the skills then I guess you could cook up sth. It also doesn't help that the hooks cannot be disassembled off the cooler.

oh i see.

i was considering amd due to meltdown and ryzen apu

if you cut the hooks that i used for 775 to get individual could i thread it to the holes in the am4 motherboard, then try to clip it on?

as an experiment can you try it and let me know if it can work,
what happens when you put those eyes through the holes and attempt to mount the original ninja with the hooks


perhaps i should get an intel even if it has meltdown as my next build LOL

does the latest intel cpu's and mounting holes work with original scythe ninja?

I now have full LC in my system and sorry, not going to remove it any time soon (too much hassle, I hope you understand).

I'm pretty sure though that you could put the hooks/eyes from the Ninja mounting set through the holes in any AMD board. But the thread in the backplate is unlikely to match the thread in the Ninja set - it will be too big (too large in diameter), so you'd most likely have to use a different backplate. Not to mention the hole spacing is completely different so a new mounting mechanism would have to be fitted on the radiator base.

Fortunately, Intel has not changed its holes spacing and dimensions in almost a decade - all 115x sockets area square and 75 mm x 75 mm. So unless you're going to run 8700K @ 5 GHz, I believe the SCNJ-1000 will work just fine.

(Yeah, I'm pissed with all the crap Intel has been serving us - that's one of the main reasons I chose Ryzen in the first place, and now I see there are even more reasons to go Ryzen - but I also understand why you want to keep the Ninja)

Does Scythe make an AM4 kit for the Ninja you have, or that will fit it?

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-System-Scythe-Ninja-SCAM4-1000B/dp/B06XRDDXDN/

i wish i could like or thumb up this post lol

so your previous post should apply should i go intel. i prefer apu solution,

i want to avoid the spectre of a meltdown

yeah its a nostalgia thing for me i got the ninja since i think it was 2006



or anyone - noctora anyone an AM4 kit that could work with the original ninja?