To cite the article you linked to: "The one caveat to all this is that the CPU was the only heat source connected to the watercooling loop. If you are thinking of running a high-end video card we would strongly suggest considering another watercooling loop or active cooling." While the cpu in that a...

The temperatures you are getting seem high at idle but I wouldn't lose sleep over it. You won't fry anything at those temps. CPUs can take 50°C all day long, all year long. I certainly wouldn't spend money on a new heatsink, much less a new CPU. I have more than a decade of experience with overcloc...

Or just don't wear shoes indoors.

Since the PCB side isn't flat the heat dissipating area is going to be much smaller. If you really are going to hard mount it (I would really try to avoid it) position it with the PCB up. That way you get maximum area touching the chassis and you also prevent all that heat from the PCB side from get...

With forced convection turbulent flow is much better for heat transfer. It's basic thermodynamics.

Temperatures are fine. 90°C on the GPU seems high but totally within spec and nothing it won't handle. If you mean that the motherboard sensor shows 49°C it might be a sign that the case ventilation could be improved, maybe by replacing the the 800 rpm fans with 1200 rpm ones and using a fan contr...

Either one will be fine. I cooled my E6600 passively with a Ninja. The E6600 generates more heat than a Wolfdale but the Ninja handled it just fine. The Ninja is cheaper but the current selling revision apparently has issues with the mounting on the socket 775.

I'm not sure I understand your system of counting with fractions of the king's thumb (inches, that is). Anyhoo... Just got a used Eheim 1048 and I want to use it with my reserator 1-system (actually planning on getting a second one and going twin towers!). Since all the fittings on the waterblocks a...

They are indeed rather brittle. As far as I know they haven't changed the construction of the buttons. The reset button on my SOLO broke after about 1.5 years.

If your thinking that noise-less is the same thing as fan-less I think your making it unnecessarily hard. A couple of very low speed fans are usually completely inaudible, certainly quieter than hard drives. Forced convection (fans) is many times more efficient than plain convection (no fans). A fan...

Have a Zen 300, completely silent

Sleeve bearing fans like the noctuas don't work well in a horizontal position, get a ball bearing fan instead. Seasonic PSUs have ADDA fans, I think. They're pretty quiet. Or get rid of the OCZ and get a seasonic PSU.

And if you do use electric heating, you should have an even more guilty conscience. Burning one energy unit of fuel to get ~0.3 units of electrical energy and convert that again to heat is not a good idea. I.e. you have to use 3 times as much fuel as if you had just burnt your fuel directly.

Can't some one ban this user. Always the same advertisements about CF cards in broken english

There's nothing dangerous about using 90° bends. Just gives you a little less flow. Shouldn't be a big problem.

I keep my 2.5" system drive in a Scythe 2.5" quiet drive that's suspended in an Antec Solo. I have a Samsung 500 GB in a 3.5" quiet drive on foam. It's so quiet it's uncanny! Definitely not audible over anything in my apartment. The 2.5" quiet drive actually made a big difference! My wish for afford...

A couple of really low speed 120 mm fans would probably be just as good as that reserator 2. Also, passive cooling won't work very well with overclocking.

I agree, there's a good chance that something other than the PSU is the problem. RAM, CPU or motherboard should be the prime suspects. Borrow someone elses RAM or CPU if you can. I don't think you have gotten two PSUs in a row with the same fault.

Also, PSUs usually don't overheat that easily.

I agree that water cooling isn't necessarily quiter than air cooling. They do enable quieting powerful gaming rigs better.

I went the Water cooling with Reserator-route. With the heat from the cpu+gpu+nb out of the case, one undervolted Nexus (soon to be 500 rpm Slipstream) is enough for case ventilation. PSU is a fanless FSP ZEN. Only noise is a slight hum from the pump in the reserator and some seek noise from my HDD ...

that is effin' sweet!

I ordered it from some german online store. hope I'll get it soon.

I had some second thoughts on that purchase since ther must be something wrong with you when you think a suspended 2.5" HDD can be a little quieter.

Have you checked if the water block is making good contact with the cpu?

It's also possible that the heat spreader is concave.

Different parts are best in different applications. What are you building? HTPC, gaming-box, workstation, surf-box?

I think you'll be able to find what's "hot" just by browsing the forums. After a couple of days you'll have your answers.

If not, you can't go wrong with what's on the SPCR recommended list.

I've been waiting a couple of weeks on an SQD2.5-1000 since ordering it from here for my wicked fast PATA drive HM160HC.

Yeah, netsuperstore have a habit of listing products as available when they aren't.

Did you get the quiet drive, xilencer?

I ordered some 1 mm and 2.5 mm pads from the AC RMA on Ebay. They came yesterday and when I checked the manual of my GF8800GTS waterblock the pads that came with it was 16x16x1 mm. So I tried the 1 mm size and it seemed to fit good.

The shipping took about two weeks. Highly recommended.

ojg, the link doesn't work

There is no way in hell that your system can ever draw 579 W.

It's just not possible. Those calculators are usually pretty far off but not that much. Divide by four and you'll be a little closer to the truth.

I second the opinion on Corsair.

I want one of those too! Great for some crazy "I bet you didn't think THAT was a computer"-project.

It seems to have been "coming soon" for quite a while.