Yeah, I guess my perspective's been skewed by the fact that I had few complaints about using these bits a few weeks ago. I tend to forget that the question isn't "Are these parts still useful to someone?", it's "What's the minimum cost to replace it?". I think I'll take your advice about the parts t...

Having finally come to the realization that I don't actually benefit from having a closet full of obsolete PC parts, I'm wondering what most folks do with old & used, but still good, parts. When I built my previous PC 8 years ago, I went ITX form factor, expecting that it'd be replaced in a few year...

I appreciate the offer, but I think I'm set. It seems pretty secure as is, with about 1/16" of thread left on the screws. There's enough tension on the screws that I can't imagine that fan would provide enough vibration to walk them loose. Seeing the top plate of the cooler so close to the side pane...

THANK YOU! That's exactly the info I needed! I definitely have the old screws, and based on the image, they added ~1/16" to the body of the screw. That should let me visually gauge when the screws are appropriately tightened, or even figure out a spacer if necessary. Knowing what the actual issue w...

Thanks--My screws all appear to be the same as in the review. I guess I'll go ahead with the install and just be careful not to over-tighten anything and to watch for slop. I'm sure I could fabricate something to use as spacers if necessary, but I have no clue what thickness would be appropriate to ...

I'm finding conflicting information about the compatibility between 1150 and 1151--can anyone clear this up for me? I bought a Mugen Max (serious overkill, but price was good) for my long-overdue new build. Some sites list 1151 for it, and some don't, and I've seen several mentions that 1150 and 115...

FYI, the Alpine 11 Pro doesn't fit on this MB unless your RAM is much shorter than usual.

I had initially dismissed getting a PicoPSU just because I have a hard time justifying getting a brand new PSU with the case and not using it, but as the PSU fan in my current rig is dying, I may just use it there. If I do go with a PicoPSU, I'm not sure what I'd do for a HSF. A Minja would be great...

Looks like I may finally be able to build a new PC soon. This time around I'm looking at an ITX build--I like my old Antec 3700 rig, but it's big, it's heavy, and those qualities aren't conducive to being retired to a living room PC. Here's what I'm thinking so far: Zotac GF9300-G-E Silverstone Sugo...

I know I've seen some mention of silencing non-pc items, and I've seen silencing of microswitches in mice, so I wanted to throw this out there--has anyone seen / tried anything on sliencing the clickwheel of an iPod?

As I've recently begun to desire front-panel audio connectors for my machine, I've started looking around at various control panels, trying to find one with enough utility to justify the price (which I've typically found to be excessive on these devices). I'm hoping I've found one with the Sunbeam S...

IIRC, I had to resort to using jumpers

Is that Winchester undervolted and still running a stock speed? Yup, and still no problems. 1.05V is as low as I could get it to remain stable, and I didn't see much point in dropping the speed to try to get it lower. I've actually considered bumping it up to 2GHz and seeing just how far I'd have t...

I know that ducting can work very well, in the right situation (see sig). It's going to depend on your heatsink, your case, and the airflow therein. The easiest way to duct a heatsink is usually to pull air up through the sink--and many don't seem to cool as well in this configuration. The Thermalri...

I would think this would also require that your expansion cards not be secured to the case as well--as Lenny said, it's probably much easier to focus on decoupling the vibration sources from the motherboard/cards. The motherboard is supposed to be grounded to the chassis via the metal standoffs. The...

I'm not sure I'm qualified to do this, but here goes: Welcome to SPCR! I don't think I'm as hardcore as most of you, but I'd like to have a generally quiet system, but still supply good cooling, much like everyone else. You might be surprised. Most of the lurkers on this site have a very similar goa...

Yup, the rear fan sucks air up through the XP-120 and blows it out the back. The front fan is supposed to be the only intake--I have it set at 50% and the rear at 30%. I guess it's working, as I have to clean the filter out regularly (I hate shedding season :x ), but I don't know of any way to verif...

I'm pleased with my Asus A8V Deluxe . I'm using it with that exact processor, undervolted, with an XP-120 (see sig for details), so it definitely meets your requirements. The BIOS will, however, continue to tell you that the CPU is over volted :roll: , but you never see it unless you're watching for...

I bet if you get a fanless power supply (phantom, silverstone, coolmax, etc) and leave off the intake fan, you can have a cool running 1 fan system. I'd love to try it, but I just can't justify the premium prices they seem to have. There are just too many solutions out there that are "good enough" ...

I don't mean to advertise a thread, but since you specifically asked for pictures, I put them here.

I've added quite a bit to the original post--I was too tired to think when I put it up the first time. :) If I see correctly, you have hardmounted your HDDs? If you want, you might want to try suspending them, buying suitable suspension material shouldn't cost much anything. I'm using the included g...

[ Edited 2005.03.24.08.55 ] As the original post was composed way past my bedtime, I've edited for clarity and fleshed-out a bit. This is the system I was running when I discovered that modern self-assembled computers don't have to be loud. I ran this box (Athlon 1200) for many years, and they were ...

Shriek, do you have any pictures of your current setup? Not yet, but I hope to soon. I was going to take some when I last had my case open, but I got busy taping up holes and playing with air pressure changes--quick temp tests suggest that I may be able to get by with forcing air through the CPU HS...

Just in case it's not clear from the earlier posts, you'll want to make sure your heatsink of choice works well in reverse mode before trying this. Many of the newer sinks work well both ways, but (if I understand what I've read here correctly) many suffer when the airflow is in the "non-standard" c...

What do you think of the MEGA? They're really spiffy looking boxes, but I've heard they're plagued with heat issues. Course, that wasn't from the SPCR crowd....

I've got the same board and the same error using an orange Yate Loon (even at full speed). I've searched through the BIOS for a way to adjust or turn off the error, but the only setting I can find is to disable the need to press F1 every time. The really odd one is that I also get an error that my C...

masp wrote:Is there a way of guessing how much stuff I can run with this 300W PSU before it can't take it anymore?

Lots of material on that subject here. In short, in most circumstances the answer is "Plenty".

freak_in_cage wrote:looks good m8, basically an XP120 with copper base & heatpipes!

Actually, IIRC, the XP-120 base and heatpipes are copper, though nickel-plated.

Looks great to me! Though I would have to put a wire grill on the back, myself--an exposed fan is one thing; a hole that big straight into the PS would make me nervous.

I've been considering doing this to my SL350--but I haven't opened it up to look for clearance (it's brand new).

... if you could lower the CPU voltage to 1.2V and retain the CPU frequency of 1.8GHz (which shouldn't be impossible) ... While I can't speak for wattage and thermal dissipation, I can say that I recently got an A64 3000+ 90nm and an Asus A8V Deluxe, and they're performing quite well set to 1.8GHz ...