I am planning out my next build, which will be my "every day" computer (email, web browsing, word processing, etc). This is to be completely separate from my "power house" machine (gaming, studio recording, DVD burning, etc). Here are the specs I had in mind: Pentium 4 Northwood 2.26 GHz Crucial 512...

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Allow me to reiterate that my concern is about the weight being ~200g over spec for Intel sockets, and that the unit being 150mm tall would create excessive amounts of torque on the MB. Even if the weight is mostly concentrated at the base of the unit, this is still worrisome...

I am a little concerned about the weight - 665g is quite a bit. I am currently running my XP-120 without a fan, so it comes in at 390g. Even with a Nexus 120mm it wouldn't be over 500g though, right? Also, the XP-120 is much more horizontal so the torque on the MB would be less. Even the Zalman unit...

I have a suspended, enclosed HDD in my main system. I actually took it a bit further than that even, my system is a 2.5" momentus 100gig drive cushioned with sorbothane blocks, inside an AC Ryan 3.5" HDD enclosure with the extra space at the ends of the enclosure filled with acoustic foam, and then...

Queensryche - Operation: Mindcrime

Symphony X - IV - The New Mythology Suite

Also as to your system temps, were they along these lines SpeedFan has always done that. I have one of those too - it reads a constant 126C, just like in the picture. The problem is with the top three sensor readings. They read normally at all times(in this, and two other monitoring apps), except w...

Just figured this out: One major difference between SP2004 and Prime95 is that SP2004 has temperature monitoring built in. Perhaps that's what is causing these erroneous readings when using this app when it does not happen otherwise? Makes some sense - it is very likely that the actual CPU temperatu...

Just to clarify (though not that it matters much), the 88C measurement was on the CPU and the 121C was on the System. They were not both CPU measurements. I agree that there is no way that those were accurate readings, but how is it possible that I only got them when running that specific test utili...

The "SmartFan" application was actually SpeedFan. That was a typo... The readings were verified using three different utilities, though I did not think to look at/save the graphs. I thought that those readings were ridiculous. It's even more strange that I only seem to get them when running that tes...

To start with, my system is: Intel P4 Northwood 3.2Ghz Thermalright XP-120 w/Nexus 120mm 2x 1GB Crucial Ballistix PC4000 (2.5-3-3-6, 1T) Asus P4C800-E Deluxe (Intel 875P) w/stock passive NB cooler Gigabyte GeForce FX5200 128MB AGP w/stock passive cooler M-Audio Audiophile 192 24-bit/192kHz 4-in/4-ou...

Gigabyte passive 6600GT AGP for $206 in USA. This site looks a little shady, but it's the right part number (GV-N66T128VP). Has anyone ever heard of this "Page Computers" ? http://newsite.pagecomputers.com/store/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Video+Cards+%26+Adapters&category%5Fname=33g33c200s996&produc...

Is there a special physical size of LED that needs to be used to fit in the Antec cases (3mm, 5mm, etc)? Is there a special voltage rating that I need to get? 5mm, Flanged. To be sure you get the right voltage, use a multi-meter on the leads of your current LEDs. Generally I have found this to be 3...

Too bad Antec can't put bright LED's on their disk activity and power indicators on the 37000-BQE, 3000B, etc. Yeah, they are very boring too. I replaced mine with 350mcd, diffused, wide-angle purple (HDD) and 200mcd, diffused, wide-angle blue (Power). Very spiffy looking on the plain black 3000B :...

BTW, does anyone know how many free samples Bivar is willing to send? I got them to send 6. Three different kinds, two of each. Unlike a lightbulb, you have to change the LEDs and the resistors, and LEDs can be a hassle to get, and you don't simply screw LEDs in. Actually, in this case it is EXACTL...

Allow me to reiterate: Changing Voltage is not the same as changing resistance. Again, it is much easier to just change the LEDs than to create any combination of resistors, controllers, etc. I really don't see why this is such a big issue - if a light bulb in the house is too bright, do you rewire ...

Changing the voltage on an LED will not affect its brightness. Every LED has an effective operating range around its rated voltage. While inside this range, it will light up with its specified amount of output. Outside this range it will no longer light up. See my previous post about replacing the L...

lenny wrote:I think you mean mcd (millicandela)

Yup. Fixed it. Sorry about that...

Why not just replace them? Cut the leads on the old ones and solder on the new ones - not complicated at all. Electrical tape will work just fine as well, considering the negligible amount of current you are dealing with. Any hardware/electrical supply store will have 12V LEDs. You can get dimmer on...

I have actually decided to go with a Celeron D @ 2.53 GHz on a Asus P4C800-E instead of bothering with my old stuff (gotta love tax returns!).

Anyone want the antiques?

This may be a silly question, but why would you get a GeForce 6600 instead of a 6800? Every benchmark I have found says that the 6800 blows it away...

The GigaByte GeForce 6800 (AGP) is passive.

Thank you much. I just ordered my P4C800-E... (wanted the CSA-enabled gigabit LAN).

One of these days I've got to get some pics of my systems up here...

Thank you for the reply, I appreciate the info. Couple of questions... have never had any stability issues, Vcore related or otherwise Is VCore fluctuation really that insignificant? I would have though it more important to stability... I have built several OCed systems using the P4P800-D and P4C800...

I am considering buying the Asus P4C800-E as a replacement for my MSI Neo2-FIS2R**. Going through my usual process of Google-ing the model number and reading every review I can find yielded nothing but positive comments. AnandTech , Tom's , Bleeding Edge , OCForums - all had good things to say. Then...

No! Beware the dark side of the force...

I used to feel that way too, but making the connections yourself is still the easiest way. There are no extra wires and no extra parts, so you'll save on cost and space/clutter. Basically you just cut the connectors off, twist the wires together and cover it with electrical tape. If the fan comes on...

Has no one used one of these slot adapters? Any opinions on Slot 1 vs. Socket 370 motherboards/chipsets?

As far as the heat sink goes, I think most people here would agree that Intel's stock cooler & fan are very loud. It is definitely worth giving it a try, but I wouldn't plan on keeping it long. If/when you decide to replace it, I would recommend the Thermalright XP-120 . I believe it is the favorite...