60mm fans are "usually" not quiet.
Vantecs are DEFINITELY not quiet.

Physics says that to move a stationary object requires greater power than to keep a moving object mobile. So a fan requires more energy to start spinning but not as much to continue running. Same thing for harddisks. They draw more energy at spinup (nearly twice as much) than when doing normal readi...

I still fail to see the reason behind such a product.

Oh, OK, you buy a 3.4GHz pres-burner-cot, realize you can't stand the noise, get the AMD slot, spend more money on chip, slot board, memory, etc.

Duh

It takes a LOT of experience and modding to get Sonata to quiet levels. Have a look at the 3700BQE or better still the 3000B along with a nice quiet PSU like the Seasonic.

My experience has been that Folding@Home produces just about the highest consistent load simulating my use. (read, not highest achievable but highest you're likely to encounter during normal daily use) If you don't have a totally passive graphics card, I doubt you'll ever exceed that temp, even when...

Have you checked out the LC11? It has 80mm fans, not 60mm and apparently better airflow While the Thermalrights are definitely better coolers than Zalman, my experience has been that Zalman performs much better under extremely low-flow situations (like when you've undervolted those 60s to acceptable...

WELCOME TO SPCR!!! We'll need some detail for better assistance. For example, how much are you going to overclock? One of the most important issues in quiet computing is undervolting. If you're going to be feeding monster voltages to your CPU for extreme overclocking, that's a totally different sit...

The all-knowing oracle "Search" reveals the following relevant threads:

How to silence toroidal coil making noise?

Coil Whine

and while you're at it, you might want to add something to this thread[/url]

Joe, I see you haven't been welcomed yet so, WELCOME TO SPCR !!! As for your problem, maybe you know, the MBM author has stopped support & development for it. So unless it can report temps in its current state, I'll very much doubt that it can be made to in the future - or that you'll ever get a rep...

No need for screws. Zipties are your friend. Check out alternative fan mounting methods thread. You don't want screws anyway as they transmit vibration into the case.

My personal rule-of-thumb is to push the CPU until it hits 60C under *extended* load. There are two points to consider. #1. Summer time, your ambient will go up so plan on the 60C for summertime. #2. Priming for an hour or so and folding for several days 24/7 are two different things. When on 24/7, ...

Whoah !!! That's a LOT of wasted airflow. You really don't need so many fans blowing in each and every direction. The name of the quiet game is *directional* & *low* airflow and yes it WILL cool your components. 4x80 intake? what for? 2x80 at the back at 7V - if good fans - should be enough to creat...

Chris, WELCOME TO SPCR !!! For the radeon, check out the Aerocool VM-101. I'm not sure about it fitting inside a SFF and even if it does, it'll eat up the PCI slot but having a powerful & quiet VGA inside an SFF is nearly impossible. Personally, considering your possible move to a HTPC case, i'd go ...

I wouldn't dismiss the idea so readily. The VGA usually sits right under the exhaust fans. The blowing air would create a lower-pressure right above the outage. One has to try & see. The previous fanless version works quite well for me.

Currently the CPU is at 2400 MHz. That's the equivalent speed of Athlon64 3400+ 8) I can overclock the Radeon to 350/300 (I love ATITool) but really, I don't game much and when I do, the difference is negligable for me. In fact, I usually downclock to 215/215 to keep the case cool and forget to cloc...

Better late than never!

Alexi,

WELCOME TO SPCR !!!

UPDATE Thor finally received a new cooler - a Thermalright XP-90 with a nice Nexus 92mm on top. I did away with resistors & fanmates and connected the fan to the CPU fan controller on the board. At 12V it has the same noise as the Zalman at 5V and I've configured the BIOS to run it at 8V until CPU ...

There was a discussion on this point some time ago, I'm too lazy to look it up. For me, I usually buy the processor at the sweet spot and overclock by up to 10%. This usually gives me a processor one up on the list at a lower price. Usually 10% is very doable on just about any hardware without serio...

I suppose I owe an apology to Thermalright. It seems removing the CPU from the socket messes up the CPU sensor diode on my motherboard. The mobo had an initial temp reading problem that was later solved by a BIOS update. But I never thought removing the CPU from the socket would render it FUBAR. I h...

Open up the registry and add it to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
along with those two parameters

El Jefe - You're NOT READING !!!! The problem with double sided mem sticks & CnQ is a s754 AMD problem and you'll face it with ANY manufacturer. For the record, my sig has that board running on 2x512 Twinmos Twister cheap ram but I changed it it's now running with 2x512 OCZ ram. So yes, it does run,...

Noone :) Actually the initial KV8Pro s were just copies of the KV8-MAX boards with the VIA non-pro chipset. The BIOS had no AGP lock, CnQ support was suspect, etc. With version 1.1 of the board, everything is peachy. There's still some problem with AGP lock with certain graphics cards (but only some...

No, it depends on your board revision. The initial boards (1.0) are problematic in a number of ways. 1.1 revision works fine in CnQ with two RAM sticks. It IS choosy about RAM type but that's a problem of the initial AMD processors, not the board

Toasty, I'm getting the same feeling that there's something wrong with your mobo or PSU. The PSU is easiest to check, use a voltmeter.

I got the melamine tile idea from the architect downstairs when I probed him for possible sources of melamine foam. He said they used it on floors to significantly reduce clicking noise produced by sharp womens heels. Might be just your thing. From his description I imagined normal floor tiles, hard...

You really don't need the very absolute best M1A. really. (btw, Mike said, it was the one he had. Considering all the trouble he went to get me this PSU, i doubt he'd pennypinch. I felt I had to note this down even though I know you're in jest) That "not-so-good" M1A is MUCH better than the M1A I ha...

Due to a need to transport (and lend) my not-so-quiet PC, I had to rescrew the hdd and the PSU back onto the case. I CANNOT believe how much the noise level jumped.

So unless you're suspending your harddisks, I see no reason to go VIA or fanless even. ie, heed Rusty

Very late at night (3 am) in a quiet neighborhood, if you listen reaaaaly carefully, you can make out a faint tick from the PSU fan and some airflow noise. This is at about 1 meters from the front of the case. Usually it competes and is overridden by hdd noise. Mike had a note in the box that said i...

Umm, not exactly my turf but... I think you need something in the way of acoustic barrier more than dampening or trapping. You'd want the sound to reflect "back", rather than absorb it. You'll also want this for the high"er"-frequency noise than lower. I'm not too up-to-date on materials but I've he...

My first vote would also go to Silverstone TJ06 if it were on the list. Otherwise I'd go with a Stacker. If you're going to spend that much on a case, it would be wise to have one that can be made to work in a number of configurations and the stacker looks like it could do just about anything that d...