SPCR

Nice rig Ed!

I like the compact dimensions of the SLK2650 and the way it lines up the two lowest 5.25” bays with the rear fan. The short case length (419mm) conspires to help ventilate those bays. Ed, what if I ran two CoolerMaster CoolDrive Lites (in passive mode – no fan) in those two bays. Would the rear case fan (and CPU fan, if I don’t run passive with a Scythe Titan) be able to pull air through the CoolDrives? I know you’ve had personal experience with the CM CoolDrive-6. Would this work?

You’ll say there won’t be sufficient airflow with the door shut, but what if one of the external 3.5” front blanking plates was removed. That would allow air up from the lower bezel area, through the open 3.5” bay into the space between door and drives, right? Inside bay metal blanking plate would be sealed to stop warm air being sucked in from the case. Does this whole idea sound viable?

I am not sure how much air would actually come in through the small vents at the front of the CoolDrive; it's not very well ventilated, particularly considering you'll be using a slow-spinning exhaust fan and the side intake has such wide bandwidth in comparison. I am not too confident it would work unless you used a cooler drive.

I honestly can't tell with regards to removing the bay cover; this sort of thing really needs to be tested to know for sure. Air flow is difficult to predict; I wish I could give you more definite answers, but I can't.

-Ed

Ed......very nice rig, want to domething very similiar, but i am interested in the OC'in aspects of the board....

Im thinkin of gettin a 64 3000 and do some moderate Oc'in (at levels where it can still be cooled by 3 120 fans. Does this board limit the V to the memory and are there other such OC limitations on it.... I know this may not be hte intent, but i have not seen any reviews of the non fatal1ty version of this board... thanks for any help

ChiBOY83 wrote:i am interested in the OC'in aspects of the board...

The best I can give you is this; other than that, I can't really provide much assistance, as I haven't tried torture testing this board. I will likely be buying a second one for my gaming rig and then overclocking the begeezus (sic?) out of it, but it won't be for a while.

-Ed

Possible stupid question....

In order to use the xp-120, do you have to make any changes to this board that would void the warranty?

thanks!

The stock retention bracket must be unbolted and swapped out for one included with the XP-120; the stock under-board backplate is used. Just keep the two bolts and the stock retention frame in a safe place; if anything should go awry, simply swap the stock retention frame back in using the stock bolts and you're golden; there's no way to tell that it was ever removed.

-Ed

I'm new to this forum (and building PCs in general), so forgive me if you've already provided the data I'm looking for somewhere above.

I am thinking about using both the motherboard and graphics card you used in your build and would appreciate your comments about how hot they run. Do they run as cool as boards with good 3rd party cooling solutions? Are they truly passive, or will I have to set up fans to help cool them?

I'm still working on my equipment list, but I plan on using the centurion case, a fast 90nm Athlon and the above as a foundation if that helps at all in giving your answer.

mack70 wrote:I am thinking about using both the motherboard and graphics card you used in your build and would appreciate your comments about how hot they run. Do they run as cool as boards with good 3rd party cooling solutions? Are they truly passive, or will I have to set up fans to help cool them?

I'm still working on my equipment list, but I plan on using the centurion case, a fast 90nm Athlon and the above as a foundation if that helps at all in giving your answer.

Assuming you do not plan to overclock at all, there's no worry whatsoever of the mainboard overheating; the cooling solution is that good. As for the video card, I think you'd have to really suffocate the thing with virtually zero air flow to cause problems, since the 6600 (non-GT) is fairly low clock, low voltage and low heat--a fanless 6600GT would be a different story, and I would not recommend it in a system with little air flow. Basically speaking, what I mean is that you do not need fans blowing on them directly whatsoever to keep them (the mainboard or the video card) sufficiently cool, but there must be some airflow--a single 120mm fan at ~650-800rpm would be fine, but at that level, I'd be more concerned about the CPU getting enough cool air. Whether you interprete that as, "truly passive," is your call.

If you've got enough air flow to keep your CPU from baking, there will be enough to keep this video card and mainboard from overheating, assuming stock or lower voltages and clockrates.

-Ed

another question...

sorry if i'm being bothersome...

I noticed you opted for the passive XFX 6600. Is there a reason you choose it instead of Gigabyte's passive 6600: does XFX solution keep the VGA core cooler? or did you just need the dual DVI?

many thanks-

stw

Yep; using dual DVI for two LCDs.

-Ed

Thinking about getting this case, and I want to inject a little more positive pressure into it, to keep dust out of the dvd/cdrom drive and floppy. So thinking about mounting fans. Or not mounting and just putting some filters in place by themselves to keep dust out of the interior (but would not want to create much restriction, as then I would for sure get dust sucked through my dvd drive. Don't you wory about that Edward? I am not planing to tape any holes off to start.

Would a 92 mm fan fit up front , with the hard drive rack installed? It looks like it might. I could use an adapter to get it to mount to the holes, but it looks like there might be enough room. If I removed the rack , would a 92mm fit then?

And , for filters would you suggest the very fine flat Aluminum metal mesh type .

Or the less expensive more corrogated wavy Aluminum type (not as aesthetic). Which lets more air though. Is there a sound diffence. Which catches the dust better?




What size filter would you suggest I get to cover the holes that are in the place of where the hard drive rack is. It is hard for me to tell from pictures how far towards the left of the case the holes extend. Would you suggest I get a 80 or a 120 and just cut it, and jerry rig a mount?

Or should I try to tape some filtrete filer material there? That would be real flimsy I bet, as such filters normally are supported by fig aluminum bands



Thanks, and super smart mod, except for dust maybe into the dvd drive. And that was super smart about vid card selection! Interesting read.

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I have a fairly low-dust environment and am not averse to periodically blowing it out with compressed air...

That said, I will be honest and admit that I'm not too savvy when it comes to filter materials--my suggestion is to do a quick search in the case forum for previous filter discussions, as there are several members who are highly experienced in filtering, including Bluefront. A search will certainly bring something useful up.

-Ed

Nice rig! Very well thought out and lots of bang for the buck. I've been considering a similar setup for my next build.

Couple of questions...

#1 - How do you think a Scythe Ninja heatsink would perform in your case compared to the XP-120?

#2 - Is the case duct adjustable and is it a major source of air for cooling the cpu ?

Thanks in advance.

#1: I honestly don't know; it's difficult to say because the airflow is designed to go straight through; I think it would work fine if oriented to blow out the back and a fan is mounted to it, but fanless, I am unsure. You'd have to try it to really know.

#2: It is only adjustable for how deep into the case/how far from the panel it reaches. It cannot be shifted up, down, left or right on the panel.

-Ed

Ed,

Thanks for the reply.

On your system board, does the heatsink line up with the duct?

How close do you extend your duct to the XP-120?


Thanks.

The heatsink doesn't perfectly line up; there's about an inch of missing coverage--but this depends on the motherboard, of course.

I extend the duct as far as it will go before it just drops off, but that still leaves almost 2".

-Ed

Ed,
How exactly is your software picking up the nforce4 chipset temperature?
I was not aware that there is an internal sensor in the chipset? Is there?
If there is a sensor inside, are you aware of any software that could pick out the reading from that sensor from other mobo manufactures?

Also, if you put your finger on the heatsink where it covers the nforce4 chipset, when the computer is really working, how does that feel on your finger, ie can you leave your finger there, yet it hurts. or does it fell just a bit warm, or does it burn you outright?

And the other other question, is how do the fins of the heatpipe feel , or maybe the pipe itself just below where the fins are rooted. Does any of that feel at all warm?

Thanks

I am not sure where these boards are picking up the temps on nF4; I am sure the stability is 100% rock solid, so even if the temps are higher than indicated, they're still a non-issue.

Next time I'm mucking about inside my machine, I'll do a finger-check on temps.

-Ed

Hi,

I was wondering how the Q-OTES heatsink was cooled. Is it cooled by air coming in or out ? Does it work well ?

It works extremely well; in my case, air coming in.

-Ed

Nice review. I like the case for it's size, although the lack of door latches put me off.

I'm planning on doing a compact watercooled case with this. It looks like a pa160 will fit on the bottom.
A phantom 350 will power it, with a top blowhole for passive venting, and I'll use my Smartdrive enclosure in the top bay, also with a top cutout.

I was hoping to be able to duct the radiator exhaust out the case, possibly straight up through the lower 5.25" bays, but the pa160 and fan will nearly reach the mobo in a case this size.

Edward Ng wrote:particularly with the new S12-330.

-Ed

Do you mean the Seasonic's 330W PSU is quieter than superior models?
Also, do you know any store (that ships anywhere europe) where can I buy those cheap "SilentDrives"?

Thanks

Deathlife wrote:

Edward Ng wrote:particularly with the new S12-330.

-Ed

Do you mean the Seasonic's 330W PSU is quieter than superior models?
Also, do you know any store (that ships anywhere europe) where can I buy those cheap "SilentDrives"?

Thanks

S12-330 and S12-430 have quieter fans than their higher powered models.

Sorry, I do not know where you can buy SilentDrives in Europe.

-Ed

Edward Ng wrote:

Deathlife wrote:

Edward Ng wrote:particularly with the new S12-330.

-Ed

Do you mean the Seasonic's 330W PSU is quieter than superior models?
Also, do you know any store (that ships anywhere europe) where can I buy those cheap "SilentDrives"?

Thanks

S12-330 and S12-430 have quieter fans than their higher powered models.

Sorry, I do not know where you can buy SilentDrives in Europe.

-Ed

And the 380W model? Anyway, is this the silent drive you are talking about?

Deathlife wrote:

Edward Ng wrote:

Deathlife wrote: Do you mean the Seasonic's 330W PSU is quieter than superior models?
Also, do you know any store (that ships anywhere europe) where can I buy those cheap "SilentDrives"?

Thanks

S12-330 and S12-430 have quieter fans than their higher powered models.

Sorry, I do not know where you can buy SilentDrives in Europe.

-Ed

And the 380W model? Anyway, is this the silent drive you are talking about?

380watt model should be same fan as well.

Yep, that looks like SilentDrive to me; Molex makes them.

-Ed

Edward Ng wrote:

Deathlife wrote:

Edward Ng wrote: S12-330 and S12-430 have quieter fans than their higher powered models.

Sorry, I do not know where you can buy SilentDrives in Europe.

-Ed

And the 380W model? Anyway, is this the silent drive you are talking about?

380watt model should be same fan as well.

Yep, that looks like SilentDrive to me; Molex makes them.

-Ed

Thanks.. Do you know of another model (which could be more easily to find) yet equally effective? I've noticed you didn't use silent blocks, why?
How do you control Nexus 120mm rpm (as it lacks of 3 pin connector)?
And the final question, Do you recommend me Nexus over Paspt? (120mm) Taking into account the noise levels when undervolted.

Sorry for the bunch of questions

Deathlife wrote:

Edward Ng wrote:

Deathlife wrote: And the 380W model? Anyway, is this the silent drive you are talking about?

380watt model should be same fan as well.

Yep, that looks like SilentDrive to me; Molex makes them.

-Ed

Thanks.. Do you know of another model (which could be more easily to find) yet equally effective? I've noticed you didn't use silent blocks, why?
How do you control Nexus 120mm rpm (as it lacks of 3 pin connector)?
And the final question, Do you recommend me Nexus over Paspt? (120mm) Taking into account the noise levels when undervolted.

Sorry for the bunch of questions

Another model what, enclosure, or power supply?

What sort of silent blocks?

Nexus 120mm fans I see in the U.S. have both, molex and 3-pin connectors. I plug the 3-pin into the mainboard and use software.

I have never personally used Papst fans, sorry.

-Ed

Edward Ng wrote:SPCR review showed that SilentDrive is prone to overheating 3.5", 7200rpm drives. In terms of acoustic reduction effectivity, the SilentDrive is completely effective in preventing the sound of these 2.5" drives from escaping, and costs much less than SmartDrive as well. As these are far cooler operating 2.5", 5400/4200rpm drives, they are under no risk whatsoever of overheating inside the SilentDrives--the temperatures they report are solid proof as well. There's no way I'd ever stick a 3.5" drive in one of these ...

For the record, I ran two IBM Deskstar 60GXP drives in SilentDrive enclosures for three years with no problems whatsoever. Maybe I just got lucky? (Yes, these are 3.5" 7200rpm drives - they are pre-Deathstar models though.)

Edward Ng wrote:

Deathlife wrote:

Edward Ng wrote: 380watt model should be same fan as well.

Yep, that looks like SilentDrive to me; Molex makes them.

-Ed

Thanks.. Do you know of another model (which could be more easily to find) yet equally effective? I've noticed you didn't use silent blocks, why?
How do you control Nexus 120mm rpm (as it lacks of 3 pin connector)?
And the final question, Do you recommend me Nexus over Paspt? (120mm) Taking into account the noise levels when undervolted.

Sorry for the bunch of questions

Another model what, enclosure, or power supply?

What sort of silent blocks?

Nexus 120mm fans I see in the U.S. have both, molex and 3-pin connectors. I plug the 3-pin into the mainboard and use software.

I have never personally used Papst fans, sorry.

-Ed

Another model for the silent drive.

I meant those silent blocks, or antivibration screws... don't know how to call them

so that the fan isn't in direct contact with the metalic screws and thus with the case.

Thanks for you attention anyway.

Deathlife wrote:I meant those silent blocks, or antivibration screws... don't know how to call them
(pic)
so that the fan isn't in direct contact with the metalic screws and thus with the case.

They reduce vibration, but if there isn't any vibration to begin with they have little benefit. Nexus fans are supposed to be excellent in this regard (especially if undervolted) so you probably wouldn't notice a difference between hard- and soft-mounted.