Post your "Ghetto mods" and other quick/cheap tips
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Post your "Ghetto mods" and other quick/cheap tips
I recently saw a similar thread going on at HardForums. Some real pearls of wisdom in there.
Mine:
Got a case with cheap rubber/plastic feet, that transfer HDD vibration? Carpet samples are your friend. I found some in the garage, cut out some case-feet-like pieces, and stuck them under my Tempest (I seem to be advertising this case a lot recently ). Really helped shut my 3 HDDs up.
Feel free to add yours!
EDIT: Just cleaned up a couple spelling errors.
Mine:
Got a case with cheap rubber/plastic feet, that transfer HDD vibration? Carpet samples are your friend. I found some in the garage, cut out some case-feet-like pieces, and stuck them under my Tempest (I seem to be advertising this case a lot recently ). Really helped shut my 3 HDDs up.
Feel free to add yours!
EDIT: Just cleaned up a couple spelling errors.
Great thread idea!
My 2c: If you have a heavy PC with soft rubber feet that you need to have on your desk, but find it difficult to move about for access etc. because of the sticky rubber "grabbing" at your desk, put little bits of cloth, paper or plastic shopping bag underneath the feet and it will slide about nice and easy. I find plastic shopping bag best for my P182 - tends to slip out less than the other two.
My 2c: If you have a heavy PC with soft rubber feet that you need to have on your desk, but find it difficult to move about for access etc. because of the sticky rubber "grabbing" at your desk, put little bits of cloth, paper or plastic shopping bag underneath the feet and it will slide about nice and easy. I find plastic shopping bag best for my P182 - tends to slip out less than the other two.
Re: Post your "Ghetto mods" and other quick/cheap
This also works nicely with the Ikea Table/Chair leg felt-stickers (or however they are called).neumein wrote:Got a case with cheap rubber/plastic feet, that transfer HDD vibration? Carpet samples are your friend. I found some in the garage, cut out some case-feet-like pieces, and stuck them under my Tempest (I seem to be advertising this case a lot recently ). Really helped shut my 3 HDDs up.
Every mod I've posted on this forum is a ghetto mod. Off the top of my head:
Hard drive suspension--use either a plastic bottle or just some cardboard to make a tube. Poke four holes in the side of the tube so you can mount the hard drive within the tube. Wrap the tube in bubble-wrap. Simply place this tube on the floor of the case. This mod allows air to flow through the tube to cool the hard drive, while the bubblewrap provides soft suspension.
2.5" hard drive silencing enclosure. A cheap aluminum case designed for the Sony PSP handheld gaming system costs about $10. This is also big enough to contain a 2.5" hard drive. Take two sandwich bags and fill them with wax based non-drying modeling clay. Sandwich the 2.5" hard drive between those bags of mdeling clay and cram it inside the PSP case. The 2.5" drive is now silent!
Cardboard partitioning instead of ducting. The intuitive solution for forcing airflow through a heatsink is to make a duct between it and a case exhaust or intake. However, a partition can be simpler and better since it restricts airflow to other components less. A partition is simply a "wall" across the case with an open doorway where the heatsink is.
Hard drive suspension--use either a plastic bottle or just some cardboard to make a tube. Poke four holes in the side of the tube so you can mount the hard drive within the tube. Wrap the tube in bubble-wrap. Simply place this tube on the floor of the case. This mod allows air to flow through the tube to cool the hard drive, while the bubblewrap provides soft suspension.
2.5" hard drive silencing enclosure. A cheap aluminum case designed for the Sony PSP handheld gaming system costs about $10. This is also big enough to contain a 2.5" hard drive. Take two sandwich bags and fill them with wax based non-drying modeling clay. Sandwich the 2.5" hard drive between those bags of mdeling clay and cram it inside the PSP case. The 2.5" drive is now silent!
Cardboard partitioning instead of ducting. The intuitive solution for forcing airflow through a heatsink is to make a duct between it and a case exhaust or intake. However, a partition can be simpler and better since it restricts airflow to other components less. A partition is simply a "wall" across the case with an open doorway where the heatsink is.
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Cardboard is a must for "ghetto" modifications. As for my own, I use stretchy shoestring for hard drive suspension. Check this thread for a picture. There's even a piece of cardboard.IsaacKuo wrote:
Cardboard partitioning instead of ducting. The intuitive solution for forcing airflow through a heatsink is to make a duct between it and a case exhaust or intake. However, a partition can be simpler and better since it restricts airflow to other components less. A partition is simply a "wall" across the case with an open doorway where the heatsink is.
For wire/cable management, I like to use garbage bag ties (aka twisty ties). They're simple and easy to use, and are cheap. You get a bunch of them for free every time you buy garbage bags.
I also like to use duct tape to silence rattles. If two pieces are rattling against each other, apply layers of duct tape to one or both surfaces, until the two pieces fit together snug. Your rattle will be gone.
I also like to use duct tape to silence rattles. If two pieces are rattling against each other, apply layers of duct tape to one or both surfaces, until the two pieces fit together snug. Your rattle will be gone.
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For newer Thermalright coolers like HR 01-Plus and SI-128 SE which share same attachment method, which allows cooler to be rotated easily, even bolts are fully tighten: Placing bit rubber, like piece of bike innertube or similar between cooler and attachment bar prevents effectively the rotating happening and makes attahcment more secure and solid feeling.
Zipties are your best friend wether its about attaching fan in place fan is usually not being attach ( or if fan clips are not included broken not enough ) or wether its cleaning your cables. Mastering creative thinking with zipties allows you to over come many troubles.
Zipties are your best friend wether its about attaching fan in place fan is usually not being attach ( or if fan clips are not included broken not enough ) or wether its cleaning your cables. Mastering creative thinking with zipties allows you to over come many troubles.
I didn't have any soft mounts for a fan, so I cut a broccoli rubber band in two, folded each piece in three, poked a hole through it and used a twist-tie to mount the fan, with the rubber band piece between the fan and case. The twist-tie goes through the hole you poked in the rubber band. One at each corner.
I don't have any pictures handy, but I'll do my best to explain.
I used a modulair Corsair PSU in a few of my builds. All my drives were SATA, so I only connected those cables to my PSU. I did need one extra old fashioned 4 pin molex connector to connect a fan.
This would mean I would have to use a fairly long additional modular cable on my PSU, which really would not serve any other purpose than to supply power to that fan.
The Corsair PSU's have two cables to provide power to the CPU, a 2 by 2 and a 2 by 4. I needed the 2 by 4 to connect to my mainboard, but would not have a use for the 2 by 2. So I made a little adapter wire.
I bought a 2 by 2 CPU power extension cord, cut it in half, soldered a few molex pins to the end and shoved them (back) into the plug, and connected the fan.
It's nothing too big, but it may save you from having to stuff away a modular cable you really didn't need, by using another wire you didn't really need either and were going to stuff away already. Worked for me.
I used a modulair Corsair PSU in a few of my builds. All my drives were SATA, so I only connected those cables to my PSU. I did need one extra old fashioned 4 pin molex connector to connect a fan.
This would mean I would have to use a fairly long additional modular cable on my PSU, which really would not serve any other purpose than to supply power to that fan.
The Corsair PSU's have two cables to provide power to the CPU, a 2 by 2 and a 2 by 4. I needed the 2 by 4 to connect to my mainboard, but would not have a use for the 2 by 2. So I made a little adapter wire.
I bought a 2 by 2 CPU power extension cord, cut it in half, soldered a few molex pins to the end and shoved them (back) into the plug, and connected the fan.
It's nothing too big, but it may save you from having to stuff away a modular cable you really didn't need, by using another wire you didn't really need either and were going to stuff away already. Worked for me.
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Electrical tape can help muffle slight vibrations in cheap cases.
Packaging foam--the thin stuff is nice as a dust filter. Thicker stuff can go in empty drive bays.
I've rigged up a connection for a video card fan by snipping the standard lead off it and soldering it to a lead from a stock video card fan--enable fanspeed control that way through atitool.
Use fedex boxes with the sticky edges for ducts/partitions.
Shoelace drive suspension.
Packaging foam--the thin stuff is nice as a dust filter. Thicker stuff can go in empty drive bays.
I've rigged up a connection for a video card fan by snipping the standard lead off it and soldering it to a lead from a stock video card fan--enable fanspeed control that way through atitool.
Use fedex boxes with the sticky edges for ducts/partitions.
Shoelace drive suspension.
An important tip when using open cell packaging foam as a dust filter; KEEP IT CLEAN. If it gunks up, less and less air will be able to go through, turning your dust filter into an everything filter, effectively sealing up your PCs air intake, blocking your airflow, leaving your CPU to cook in it's own hot air.