Looking for advicerecommendations for my new antec slk3000b

Enclosures and acoustic damping to help quiet them.

Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Devonavar

pitch
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Looking for advicerecommendations for my new antec slk3000b

Post by pitch » Mon Jan 17, 2005 1:39 am

Hi,

Awaiting delivery of an antec slk3000b, after advice on what i can do to get it any quieter than supplied as stock.

Also looking at making sure the airflow is as good as i can, to enable me to run the fans as low as possible.

Any directions, especially concerning cable tidying/routing would be appreachiated.


thanks, mark.............

Tibors
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Post by Tibors » Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:54 am

Just look at the grill cutting and cablegami Ralf Hutter has done with his Antec 3700. You can find it in the General Gallery.

pitch
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Post by pitch » Mon Jan 17, 2005 6:15 am

cheers :D


mark...........

Ralf Hutter
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Post by Ralf Hutter » Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:02 am

1) Suspend the HDD(s).

2) Cut out the fan grills.

3) Choose your hardware wisely.

frankgehry
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undervolting

Post by frankgehry » Mon Jan 17, 2005 9:05 am

To some of the more experienced people here, where does undervolting go in relation to the other suggestions listed? The first time I read about this technique I dismissed this as something I would never bother with, but now I would definitely make sure I buy a motherboard that allows undervolting and plan on doing it a some point. - FG

burcakb
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Post by burcakb » Mon Jan 17, 2005 10:39 am

My Thor rig has nearly the same insides as the 3000B.

Ralf,

Your point 3 should be made into an SPCR mantra. Newcomers should sign under it when agreeing to terms :)

frank,

That mostly depends on your CPU cooler choise. If you've got a hot CPU and a lousy cooler, that'd make CPU undervolting number one priority.

pitch
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Post by pitch » Mon Jan 17, 2005 1:36 pm

HI,

Being as Ralf mentioned it and i'd completly forgot :roll: :oops: , hardware is as follows, any advice for this as well appreachiated :

Mobo : asus a7n8x-x
CPU : Xp1700(@215x8)
retail cooler , set to be replaced with an slk900 after i've had a go at lapping it.
Suggestions for 92 mm fan, was thinking of Nexus, anything better ?
enermax 420w noisetaker cpu
silenx 80mm side and rear fans.
Samsung SP1213N 120GB
Pioneer 117 DVD
Pioneer 108 DVD-RW
Chaintech nvidia 6800
Teco TE988 19"CRT
Audigy2 sound card
Zalman ZM MFC-1 fan controller

think thats about it.

thanks for any more information/advice :)


mark..............

frankgehry
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80 or 120 silentx

Post by frankgehry » Mon Jan 17, 2005 2:17 pm

pitch,

The slk3000b takes 120mm fans front and back and comes with one 120mm fan. Do you really have 80mm's? If so, you could just use the antec supplied 120 and forget about the front fan, or get another 120 for the front. - FG

As far as lapping goes, before you start, you probably should take a straight edge like a machinist square or a drafting triangle, and if it seems flat, and the surface is smooth, don't bother lapping. I lapped my xp-90 and then when I replaced it with an xp-120, I just did a cursory check for flatness and didn't really think I could improve it by lapping.

pitch
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Post by pitch » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:21 am

Hi,

cheers frank, yeah gonna check the slk900 before i attempt the lap as i wouldnt want to make it worse than it was.

I'm gonna run the deffault 120mm fan for a bit to see what it sounds like to me, then maybe update it to either a nexus or globe, and see if i need a front one.

mark..............

frankgehry
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one more thing

Post by frankgehry » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:44 am

pitch,
you can also use the 80mm fan in the front position. If you look a Ralf's computer in the gallery you'll notice that he has a 92mm fan which is good for hard drive cooling - possibly extending the life of the drives somewhat. I agree its good to try what you have at first, and then make impovements if you think they're worth your time and money - FG

pitch
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Post by pitch » Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:03 am

cheers frank.

looking at stuff to use for drive suspension some of it looks to thin to me, as in my manual dexterity aint great, is elastic ok to use or am i better with some bungee cord ?


mark.........

frankgehry
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suspensions

Post by frankgehry » Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:30 am

pitch,

I've never done a suspension so I'll refer you to a couple of articles and a computer in the gallery that I think is clever.

series of articles on different types of suspension:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article_index.php#cases


burcakb's computer:
http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewtopic.php?t=17474

I'm sure there must be a few comments about materials.

burcakb
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Post by burcakb » Tue Jan 18, 2005 7:33 am

Just any elastic cord might be problematic. I've got a few samples of different types. I deemed most to be way too flexible. No sense using them and have the drive sag all the way to the case bottom :)

The one I used is the one that goes inside swimsuits. It's thick enough and it fits the grommet holes perfectly.

Inspecting the crosssection reveales lots of tiny elastic fibers formed into a cylinder, covered externally with double layer interlaced sewing string.

Tibors
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Post by Tibors » Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:38 am

If elastic cord is too flexible, but you have no other choises at hand, then you can try doubling of tripling the cord, so the drive hangs on more strands.

BigDu21
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Post by BigDu21 » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:36 pm

Tibors wrote:If elastic cord is too flexible, but you have no other choises at hand, then you can try doubling of tripling the cord, so the drive hangs on more strands.
Actually that's what I'm doing--I've got some what looks to be fairly generic elastic banding, that looks strong, but I'm doubling it up through the grommets, so I've got 2 pieces to hold the hard drive. You'll also want to make sure you're stretching the elastic just a touch when you tie it off--that will also help to ensure that it stays tight and keeps the drives in place. and definitely make sure you use grommets or something else to protect the elastic from the sharp edges of the holes.

pitch
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Post by pitch » Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:16 am

Hi,

Thanks for the replys.

Have to say i'm a bit dissppointed with the case finish, although the edges arn't sharp enuff to cut, would have hoped they would have rouned them off or something, maybe just me tho :(.

Alos very disappointed that it only came with 2 thumb screws and not 4 for the side panels.


mark............

Mholonious Tenk
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Personal experiences

Post by Mholonious Tenk » Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:40 am

I just bought slk3000b.

Some thougts:

1. Using antec's rubber mounting, my two 7200rpm hdd:s are _A LOT_ noisier
than my old'n ugly ex-case with hdd-bay standing at the bottom of the case.

2. QT-technology 300W 8x8 PSU fan is quieter than the supplied antec-fan
set to lowest speed.

-> I have to isolate the hdd's somehow.

My case temps did drop dramatically, though.

edit:
I removed the drive cage and put my old one back standing freely
on a 3mm piece of rubber -> hdd noise is back to what it was before,
especially seek noice, which made the whole box resonate using
antec-standard hdd-install.

The standard install of the hdd's is nowhere near acceptable in my opinion.
Last edited by Mholonious Tenk on Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:05 am, edited 2 times in total.

burcakb
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Post by burcakb » Thu Jan 20, 2005 1:31 pm

Mholonious Tenk

WELCOME TO SPCR !!!

Mholonious Tenk
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Re: Personal experiences

Post by Mholonious Tenk » Fri Jan 21, 2005 3:56 am

Does anybody know how to install cd/dvd drives?

It didn't have a manual :(

frankgehry
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dvd install

Post by frankgehry » Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:29 am

mt,

1 - you install it from the front so you have to remove the front plastic cover of the 3000b and then pick which slot you want to put it in. You can always change later though.

2 - There is a technique to removing the front panel - it comes off without a lot of trouble so be careful not to break anything. If you have the side cover off you can see a plastic clip on each side that holds the bottom of the cover on. Push these in and push down on the top and pull towards you. Its been a while since I've taken the front off, but if you have to force it you're doing something wrong.

3. Twist and bend the sheet metal off that covers the slot. It will break off

4 - attach the rails to the side of the dvd with the spring end towards the front. I believe the rails mount towards the bottom of the dvd.

5 - Then you can push the dvd player in from the front. It will lock into place. Then attach flat ide cable and power cable. You probably got some kind of dvd burner software for recording, but you shouldn't have to load a driver or anything. Then you can install windows. - FG

pitch
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Post by pitch » Fri Jan 21, 2005 5:20 am

Hi,

yeah MT i had the same problem and there isnt even one to download from the antec website :?

Nice bit of help frank have to remember that for when i start working on mine, still trying to decide what to do about the fan grills, i know i should remove them but not sure of the best way to do it, quality snips seem a bit expensive being as i'm only liklely to use them once or twice at most :(


maybe try just drilling it out as best i can then filing it down.

mark............

freak_in_cage
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Post by freak_in_cage » Fri Jan 21, 2005 6:17 am

m8, IMO the beauty of the 3000B is it allows you to isolate the 3 main sources of heast in a case:

1) use a PSU with front intake (such as seasonic SS) and use 1o r 2 of the drive bays as air intake. seperate PSU upper region from rest of system with a section of wood/foam combo or whatever. by drawing air directly from outside into the case it will run quiet

2) due to the CPU intake in the side of the case, the CPU fan sucks cool air straight in from the duct, and is directly exhausted by the 120mm exhaust fan. heck if its undervolted, u may not even need the CU fan, just the 120!

3) 120mm intake fan can cool hard drives, and this air then passes towards the GPU exhaust cooler (like arctic cooler rev 3). the air is still relativly cool thx to the low heat output of drives, which then cools the graphics card and is exhausted out.

i REALLY want this case, but i cant really afford a new case, 2 nexus 120mm and i would still have to buy a PSU with front intake.

pitch
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Post by pitch » Fri Jan 21, 2005 7:11 am

Hi,

yeah seen about ducting etc when i get chance gonna settle down and have a think thru what i can do and where i can get the materials from.

Anyone know if you could get away with putting an 80mm fan on the inside of the fan duct then the duct on top the fan ?

Just wondering if a low cfm/db/rpm 5v/7v fan would be of any use and add anything beneficial to the way the ducting works.

keep the ideas coming guys much appreachiated.

got a few 80 mm fans so plenty to play with, wary of the diy ducting as i'm usually pretty carp but hopefully be fun :).

mark..........

Ralf Hutter
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Post by Ralf Hutter » Sat Jan 22, 2005 6:25 am

pitch wrote:
Anyone know if you could get away with putting an 80mm fan on the inside of the fan duct then the duct on top the fan ?

mark..........
Yeah you could, but I don't think I would.

Having a fan mounted right behind the face of the door is going to be loud, plus having a fan attached directly to the door will most likely add extra resonance to the case.

Mholonious Tenk
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experiences continued

Post by Mholonious Tenk » Sat Jan 22, 2005 8:31 am

Thanks frankgehry!

Now everything is working fine.

I bought a nexus 8x8 fan for my athlonXP (1000-1700MHz 1.3 - 1.55V).
I had a lot noisier ball-bearing adda 8x8 fan before, it did undervolt but the motor
made too much clicking/bearing noise, even when heavily
undervolted.

Antec 12x12 case fan is the loudest fan in my system, compared
to qt-PSU 8x8 fan or nexus 8x8. Maybe I try some undervolting
with it later. Sound is a constant hum, not very annoying. It still moves
quite a lot air, compared to PSU fan

Fan noise is not the biggest problem anymore, hdd's are.
I have a 60GB maxtor dm9 (fluid bearings) and a 120GB
IBM 180GXP standing on a now two rubber pieces, about
5mm thick combined.

My 19" CRT is making noise too, I have noticed it before,
but now it's surpassing noise coming from the case. It's
sounds quite similar to hdd whine.

Hdd's make a high pitched whine, maybe applying some dampening
materials to case is my next step.

pitch
Posts: 86
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Post by pitch » Sat Jan 22, 2005 2:58 pm

Ralf Hutter wrote:[Yeah you could, but I don't think I would.

Having a fan mounted right behind the face of the door is going to be loud, plus having a fan attached directly to the door will most likely add extra resonance to the case.
Would it be worth trying to mount it onto rubber inside the case or just a no go at all in u';re opinion ?


cheers, mark............

nici
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Post by nici » Sat Jan 22, 2005 3:55 pm

This is how i mounted the front fan in my SLK3700AMB. Here is my system, just added to the Gallery http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewto ... 893#150893

Image

pitch
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Post by pitch » Mon Jan 24, 2005 4:22 am

Hi,

Just to let everyone know, i didnt get a manual with the case so emailed Antec and there posting one to me as its not on the website for download either.

Might be me but is this a backward step technology wise ?

Also waiting delivery for me wiss snips.


cheers, mark..........

Sizzle
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Post by Sizzle » Mon Jan 24, 2005 5:44 am

I have my 3000b and am in the process of putting it together. So far I have cut out the fan grilles and put rubber modling around them. Fans will be mounted with isolation mounts. Here is what I am doing for hardware:

Antec SLK 3000B case
Antec Phantom passive PSU
2x Papst 4412F/2GL fans @ 7V for intake and exhaust
Papst 4412F/2GLL @ 7V on Thermalright XP-120 heatsink
P4C 2.8ghz
Intel 875PBZ motherboard
Sapphire Atlantis 9600 256mb passive videocard
Sapphire Theatrix 550 TV/FM/Capture card
Prodigy 7.1 soundcard
2x Samsung 120 gig drives with Nidec motors
Asus 616P2 Quietrack DVD-ROM
Dual Layer burner to be added later

I had to order those Papst fans from overseas, so I am waiting on those. I also bought a Acoustipack kit for the SLK series and put that in the box. I am trying to decide what to do for undervolting the fans. With the Acoustipack kit, the door of the case has less clearance when closed so knobs or switches might not fit. I have a simple three switch board that mounts in a 3.5 bay drive cover, I may just mount it inside the case somewhere as I will keep the fans hardset at 7V.

frankgehry
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Post by frankgehry » Tue Jan 25, 2005 1:38 am

Sizzle,

Where did you order your papst fans from? I ordered a couple from www.pcsilent.com, in fact the same models you ordered. www.ichbinleise.com will also make US sales. They have some yate loon models, but I'm really looking forward to getting the papst fans.

TIA - FG

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