Removing a Water Cooled system for storage

signal64 · Post by **signal64** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:49 pm

I'm going to be removing a Thermaltake BigWater SE.

Bottom line, on my Intel system it makes the same (if not more noise) for the same cooling power than my air cooled solution. Not what I was after.

I do plan on using it on an AMD system later, but will need to store it for a couple of weeks before doing that.

Anything I need to look out for?
Flush the system with distilled water first?

Plan on using new tubes but more worried about the pump and water block.

Thanks.

thetoad30 · Post by **thetoad30** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:46 am

I'm new to watercooling, but if I were doing what you will be doing, I'd definately flush the system with a lot of distilled water, then make sure it's dry before I store it anywhere.

Don't need mold building up in storage!

Also make sure you do something small (like wrap in a towel) to prevent dust from readily settling inside the pump and waterblock. Just makes it easier to clean next time around. You could even put some tape over the intake ports, but that's on the extreme end I think.

ont · Post by **ont** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 12:57 pm

Well what I do if I need to store my watercooling parts for some time is to flush them with some distilled water and afterwards cutting short parts out of leftover tubing. I connect these short parts to both connectors of the individual parts, so that no dust can enter the parts.

thetoad30 · Post by **thetoad30** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 1:08 pm

In my opinion, I think that this would cause mold problems with any extra water that didn't evaporate or come out of the blocks. Humidity is a huge factor in mold production, as well as dark places. A wet, closed loop with a waterblock is the perfect place for that.

I'd personally err on the side of caution and make sure they were wrapped up. But again, that's just me!

signal64 · Post by **signal64** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:30 pm

Thanks for the suggestions folks. They're all much appreciated.

The closed loop sounds like a good idea. I suspect I'd get some bubbles in there that would need to be worked out. Might be a little messy, but less chance of something drying out in there that you don't want.

For the distilled water method, thought of using compressed air (canned air, nothing very high pressure) to dry out the componets once they've been flushed throughly.

The kit came with caps for the pump fittings, but nothing for the block. Will probably find some plastic bolts to use as plugs and use some short pieces of unused tubeing for capping in either case.

If anyone has any further comments, please jump in.

Thanks again.

ont · Post by **ont** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 7:42 am

In my opinion, I think that this would cause mold problems with any extra water that didn't evaporate or come out of the blocks. Humidity is a huge factor in mold production, as well as dark places. A wet, closed loop with a waterblock is the perfect place for that.

Reading my post again I notice that I forgot to write that I give the component some time to dry before closing it with the tubing. Or just put them in a plastic bag, as that is the way most of the manufactors send the individual components out. Just remember to clean them before using them again!

signal64 · Post by **signal64** » Fri Oct 06, 2006 9:06 pm

Holy Cow! I'm glad I pulled the block while I did!

I hadn't looked closly at the block for a week and found something pretty nasty when I finally took it out.

I don't have a camera handy, but here's what the waterblock normally looks like:

http://www.virtual-hideout.net/reviews/ ... ages/7.JPG

The acrylic is fractured at an angle from the black round gasket up to the edge of the screw. This happened on three of the screws (the one by the LED is unaffected). Fracture line is diagonal across from one edge of the block to the next 90 degree edge on the inside edge of the screw.

The bottom of the copper water path appears to be somewhat scortched. Darker discoloration of the copper especially in the center.

I know the bracket wasn't too tight and the thermal grease was fine. Have used Thermaltake's Tower112 which has the same attachment (and a heck of alot heavier).

Processor is a 945 Pressler and runs cooler than my 840. Chip isn't overclocked and pump was running fine with no air bubbles.

I'm not saying I couldn't have screwed this up, but dang... after doing 100+ heatsink installations (including a couple of other water based) I didn't quite expect this.

I doubt Thermaltake is going to replace the block, but going to try.

So much for saving the block for future use though.

simm1701 · Post by **simm1701** » Sat Oct 07, 2006 1:33 am

I do a lot of home beer brewing myself - so I have a rather handy steriliser - LWP - for plastic, stainless steel, or copper - or pretty much anything else.

Also rinses easily with no residue but will kill off anything that could cause mold.

I suspect I'd use this on any water cooling components before storing them just to be on the safe side - and possibly after I took them out

Any local brewing shop sells the small tubs for Â£1