Please help me decide on a case and heatsinks.

[ickarumba1]

Hello! This is my first time on the the SPCR forums, but I've read the reviews for quite some time, and I think they are trustworthy.
I have decided on a build, based on Intel's Sandy Bridge chips next year. I have based my build on the reviews from Anandtech and such other websites that have tested the Sandy Bridge chips.
I am aiming for the quietest build possible. I won't be upgrading any time soon.
I need help deciding between two cases and a few heatsinks.

This is my current build:
- Intel Core i5 2500K
- Asus/Gigabyte LGA 1155 socket motherboard of high quality (read: overclockable and expensive)
- Gigabyte/Sapphire Radeon 6950
- 4 GB Corsair Dominator 1600MHz CL8 (Maybe cheaper RAM if this is over-the-top)
- Intel X-25M G2 80GB SSD (Or wait for Intel's new SSD's, should I wait?)
- Samsung F3 Spinpoint 1TB (I will probably elastically suspend this)
- Seasonic X-560 (The best PSU for my needs that I found)

The cases:
Very simple: Antec P183 or Silverstone RV02?

The heatsinks:
CPU: Megahalems + 2 silent Nexus fans or Noctua NH-D14
GPU: Arctic Cooling Accelero s1 + silent Nexus fan (will this work? I want the GPU to be quiet and cool at the same time, although silence has the higher priority)

Any comments and suggestions are appreciated. If you feel that any parts of my build or choices can be replaced with something that is more quiet, please post below.

[jhhoffma]

Well, given that quiet is your primary goal, you can likely do away with the two fans on the Megahalems.

I'd go with the P183, personally, but to each his own.

I think the S1 should fit the 6950, but can't be certain. I know it fits the 6850...

[ickarumba1]

Would I achieve adequate cooling with just one fan?

How hot does the gpu get with the s1?

How do I remedy the issue with the top exhaust fan?

[jhhoffma]

Can't speak to that specific CPU, but I'm running a Phenom II X3 740 (unlocked to X4 @ 3.2GHz) with a Mugen 2 passively in my Antec 300. Top fan undervolted to 5V and rear fan replaced with a 800rpm Slipstream. I can't imagine one fan not being enough, unless you are going nuts. Stock HSF only come with one fan, right?

Wouldn't know about the S1/GPU combo either, though given how new it is there aren't likely many that have tried it yet.

What issue with the top exhaust fan are you referring to?

[kuzzia]

I definitely think that you should wait for the next generation of SSD's.

They (Intel & Sandforce) should arrive somewhere in February and will offer wicked fast speeds.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/3971/sand ... 60k-iops/5

You're already waiting for Sandy Bridge so why not wait for the next-gen SSD's also?

[ickarumba1]

I'm going with the megahalems now.

Still need to know about the noise of the top fan grill of the p183.

As for the ssd, I suppose I COULD wait, but there is always something around the corner.
Maybe I'l get this ssd now, then when the new ssds drop in price, I'll buy those.

[kuzzia]

The top exhaust fan will probably not be quiet enough for your needs, sadly.

I have an Antec 200 in my house, also with a very similar top exhaust fan. At slow, it is subjectively fairly quiet, but it can definitely be heard.

Maybe if you undervolt them even further?


And for the SSD:
Go for it! SSD are absolutely the future, if not the present.

[ickarumba1]

SPCR recommends to cut off the struts in the top fan placement. I wonder if that helps.

[Tim S]

Yes, you can undervolt the the top fan on an Antec case. I'm not sure about what it will need for startup voltage though. I use a fan controller that momentarily "kicks" the fans with full voltage on startup.

From my post in "Newcomers Briefing Room" entitled "My Triple-Booting Quiet PC Build"

I opted for the Scythe KS01-BK "Kaze Server" and hooked up my Slipstream, CPU fan and 200mm Antec Tri-Cool top fan to it. A quirk of this fan controller is that each channel needs to see RPM signal in order for the fan to work with it. So I purchased a Rosewill RCW-310 Fan power Y cable to share the Slipstream's RPM signal to two channels on the fan controller. I then spliced the 200mm fan power cables onto the Rosewell cable. The result is two channels that show identical RPMs, but the speed of the 200mm fan is independent of the Slipstream. I can only operate the 200mm fan is manual mode (as opposed to semi- or fully-automatic modes), but with temperature sensors and readouts, that's not a problem.

[quest_for_silence]

I then spliced the 200mm fan power cables onto the Rosewell cable. The result is two channels that show identical RPMs, but the speed of the 200mm fan is independent of the Slipstream. I can only operate the 200mm fan is manual mode (as opposed to semi- or fully-automatic modes), but with temperature sensors and readouts, that's not a problem.

Sorry for this little hi-jacking.

So you cannot read the 200mm rpm? And why you cannot use the semi-auto mode, what really happens?
To splice the Big-Boy cable, have you to open the 3-pin housings which you connected to the Kaze Server?

[Tim S]

The Antec Tri-Cool Fans (like the BigBoy) do not have an RPM sensor and use a Molex power connector rather than the familiar 3-pin or 4-pin fan connector. They rely on their 3-way power switch for the fan instead.

Actually I used a Molex to 3-pin fan adaptor that came with some fan I had and then spliced *that* onto the Rosewill cable. (I hate unreversible mods to permanent components.. like the BigBoy in an Antec case)

As for why not semi-automatic mode with the BigBoy? Semi mode works like this:

1) Users sets a minimum RPM value that the fan will never go below
2) User sets a temperature threshold at which the fan should move faster.

Well, since I'm using a "stolen" RPM from my rear case fan for the BigBoy, it has no relation to the actual speed of the BigBoy. So once the temperature threshold is exceeded, the voltage to the BigBoy starts to increase. BUT there is no corresponding increase in the "stolen" RPM, so the controller doesn't know what to make of this.

Hopefully this makes sense to someone. It's kind of hard to follow unless you've tried taming a BigBoy yourself.

[speedkar9]

I was able to under-volt my 140mm fan in my Antec 300 and run it @ 5v on medium. The molex connector's pins are easy to release with a paperclip. I soft mounted it (see sig) to ease the vibrations; its very quiet, and makes a big difference in CPU cooling.

For the P183, I suppose you could drill two more holes through the top of the case to allow a straight bolt through with silicone screws, or cut out the metal at the top causing the vibrations in the first place, or try creating a thin fan gasket to wedge between the fan and case metal.