Has anyone here been successful using the blue duct in a P182 (Intake istead of exhast maybe?). I am running a 5000+ BE OC'd to 2.8 and have no issues running this cooler passively with rear and top tri-cools set on medium. Would like to pish the overclock to 3.2 if possible without screaming fans. (yes I am primarily a gamer and overclocker, but this silent/quiet idea has taken hold in the last few weeks!).
Any feedback would be welcome.
THX
Thermalright HR-01+ with duct in Antec P182 case
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Received it today and I've just finished mounting it on my GA-P35-DS3L.
It's a bit of a pain to make it fit, but I confirm that you can use a HR-01+ with the blue duct. As I said above, I have a GA-P35-DS3L and the HR-01+ is almost perfectly aligned with the rear fan. In order to install the duct, I removed the motherboard, installed the duct on the heatsink (without tape) then I connected to the fan and then slowly put the motherboard back in place. There's little space between the fan and the heatsink, that's why I had to connect the duct before screwing the motherboard back.
The duct is flexible, so even if it's not perfectly aligned with the fan you can work it out. Installing it can be a bit of a pain for the reason exposed above, and also because of the bolt-thru screw that's right in the middle of it. My advice: connect the duct to the heatsink starting from the bottom of the sink (stretch toward the top) then connect to the fan. I didn't screw it to the fan, as I said, there's not much room for it, I had to squeeze the duct a little, so it's tight.
It's a bit of a pain to make it fit, but I confirm that you can use a HR-01+ with the blue duct. As I said above, I have a GA-P35-DS3L and the HR-01+ is almost perfectly aligned with the rear fan. In order to install the duct, I removed the motherboard, installed the duct on the heatsink (without tape) then I connected to the fan and then slowly put the motherboard back in place. There's little space between the fan and the heatsink, that's why I had to connect the duct before screwing the motherboard back.
The duct is flexible, so even if it's not perfectly aligned with the fan you can work it out. Installing it can be a bit of a pain for the reason exposed above, and also because of the bolt-thru screw that's right in the middle of it. My advice: connect the duct to the heatsink starting from the bottom of the sink (stretch toward the top) then connect to the fan. I didn't screw it to the fan, as I said, there's not much room for it, I had to squeeze the duct a little, so it's tight.
I believe your approach is wrong, here what I would do (tricools on medium aren't quiet at all):
Replace the back tricool with a Scythe Slipstream 1,200 and put another one on the HR-01+, block the top vent
Don't use the duct, the back fan also removes heat from GPU and other stuff, and you don't want all that heat to go through the CPU heatsink.
Have the Slipstreams controlled by the mobo, they should run at ~600 rpm at low load, which is very quiet.
At high load they should provide more airflow than the tricools, at lower noise levels.
I know having a passively cooled CPU is, well ... cool, but that won't work for a heavily overclocked CPU unless your case fans spin fast and loud.
Replace the back tricool with a Scythe Slipstream 1,200 and put another one on the HR-01+, block the top vent
Don't use the duct, the back fan also removes heat from GPU and other stuff, and you don't want all that heat to go through the CPU heatsink.
Have the Slipstreams controlled by the mobo, they should run at ~600 rpm at low load, which is very quiet.
At high load they should provide more airflow than the tricools, at lower noise levels.
I know having a passively cooled CPU is, well ... cool, but that won't work for a heavily overclocked CPU unless your case fans spin fast and loud.
@JaYp146: no camera in my phone, sorry.
@Tzupy: FYI, most of the time my CPU runs 10°C lower than whatever the other sensor of my MB is attached to, so I don't mind if that lukewarm air goes through the heatsink. I didn't take the time to run tests, but I don't think that in my case the duct improves the CPU cooling by much (if at all) and I could go "passive" (not-so-passive, considering there are 2 fans sucking air next to it). I wouldn't attach a fan to it, because I wouldn't want to blow warm air inside the case. Best case scenario, that hot air is sucked by the fan, but then, what's the point of the heatsink's fan? If my CPU was hot (eg, Quad Core) I'd use a TRUE instead.
@Tzupy: FYI, most of the time my CPU runs 10°C lower than whatever the other sensor of my MB is attached to, so I don't mind if that lukewarm air goes through the heatsink. I didn't take the time to run tests, but I don't think that in my case the duct improves the CPU cooling by much (if at all) and I could go "passive" (not-so-passive, considering there are 2 fans sucking air next to it). I wouldn't attach a fan to it, because I wouldn't want to blow warm air inside the case. Best case scenario, that hot air is sucked by the fan, but then, what's the point of the heatsink's fan? If my CPU was hot (eg, Quad Core) I'd use a TRUE instead.
I used that setup in my P180, though I set the rear fan to be an intake rather than exhaust. I was initially worried about sucking in warm rising exhaust from the PSU, but temps were still significantly better than cooling the CPU with warm air from within the case.
From what I remember, there was a fairly uniform 10-15 degree (F) difference between the intake and exhaust ducted setup w/the HR-01, with the advantage going to the intake setup.
In short, the HR-01, blue duct, and P-180 rear exhaust fan work great together, and even better if you reverse the fan to blow in towards the HR-01.
From what I remember, there was a fairly uniform 10-15 degree (F) difference between the intake and exhaust ducted setup w/the HR-01, with the advantage going to the intake setup.
In short, the HR-01, blue duct, and P-180 rear exhaust fan work great together, and even better if you reverse the fan to blow in towards the HR-01.