bolt-thru upgrade for ninja revB (pics)

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wim
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bolt-thru upgrade for ninja revB (pics)

Post by wim » Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:12 pm

finally got around to installing the ninja properly. temps did not significantly improve but this was expected because the push-pins were working OK in my case (i keep the motherboard flat so that there was no cantilever force on the push-pins. as you can see the TIM was evenly distributed when i removed the old mount).

you can disassemble the push-pins without destroying them as described in the picture, you need to bend back a plastic tab and then they come apart in 2 pieces one either side of the metal bracket.

changing from 1 ugly orange nexus 120mm fan to a b&w nexus in push-pull with a noctua fan. i read on here the noctua fan, whilst very quiet, does not work well with backpressure, so i put it onto the 'pull' side. i don't think it is doing much but hopefully providing a little bit of airflow over the graphics card. thats a sparkle 8800GT with the passive heatsink on it, and it gets very hot.

the backplate had plastic stuff on it that i wasn't sure whether to remove or not, so i left it on. does anyone here know if this is correct or not..?? :?

i have tried for the first time with this build the method with a 'dollop' of Tuniq TX-2 in the middle of the cpu and then letting the heatsink base squish it out. this was in response to a news item i saw posted on the site here. seems to have worked fine but its hard to tell if there is any difference because my E8400 has always reported ridiculously low temps (they are certainly reported wrong because it says the cpu is equal to ambient temperature at the moment). but as long as i have prime95 stability at inaudible volume i am happy, it doesn't really matter to me what the true temperature is.


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nyu3
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Post by nyu3 » Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:19 pm

Don't remove the plastic from the backplate. It is for electrical insulation.

FartingBob
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Post by FartingBob » Sat Mar 29, 2008 4:09 am

Considering i ordered the TR backplate for my rev B a few days ago, this comes as very welcome! How easy was it to screw the springs in without bending the fins?
And why do you have your fan setup facing the top of the case? I can see your RAM would be in the way for a normal positioning, but why not the opposite side with a pull system.

Nutstree
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Post by Nutstree » Sat Mar 29, 2008 5:37 am

First of all. Arent you using way to much pasta between your CPU and HS? I mean, I use the size of 1 grain of rice which I spread out by using a creditcard or something, before putting the HS on. When taken of, I can see it makes good/thin contact. If I see your result after taken of, 1/3 is pushed outside and 1/3 is creating a thick layer which has more trouble passing through the heat.

Just my idea, but maybe I am doing wrong. Then others will tell probably.

FartingBob wrote:Considering i ordered the TR backplate for my rev B a few days ago, this comes as very welcome! How easy was it to screw the springs in without bending the fins?
And why do you have your fan setup facing the top of the case? I can see your RAM would be in the way for a normal positioning, but why not the opposite side with a pull system.
You can see he has a Thermalright HR-03 GPU heatsink. With this setup he can cool that passive, using the CPU cooler to also substract heat from the GPU.

I have the same memory btw. Was also a bit dissapointed at first that it didn't give me total freedom to decide how the fans should be connected.

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Post by yefi » Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:43 am

Nutstree wrote:First of all. Arent you using way to much pasta between your CPU and HS?
Yes, he is slightly. It should be around a grain to a grain and a half of rice for those CPUs with the metal shroud. He should also place a dot on the HS and work it in until it is tinged with the paste's colour. This is to fill the microscopic imperfections in its surface and improve thermal conductivity. (Still, I doubt you would see more than a few C temp difference this way from simply serving it onto the CPU like a big dollop of ketchup.)

While I'm at, thermal interface material takes time to cure before it reaches its optimum. It is longer for the "silver stuff" than the "white stuff" as I recall, but takes a few days with the machine on and off. Turning the machine off is important for the curing. On some server machines that are never off the paste never cures.

And suffice to say, if you touch either the HS or CPU with your fingers, you reduce the effectiveness of the paste dramatically, as you have just successfully introduced a layer of grease between the two.

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Post by thejamppa » Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:02 pm

OCZ Reaper memories are quite nasty looking for the memory modules ^^

wim
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Post by wim » Sun Mar 30, 2008 3:40 pm

nyu3 wrote:Don't remove the plastic from the backplate. It is for electrical insulation.
ah, yes of course, thankyou

wim
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Post by wim » Sun Mar 30, 2008 3:45 pm

FartingBob wrote:Considering i ordered the TR backplate for my rev B a few days ago, this comes as very welcome! How easy was it to screw the springs in without bending the fins?
screwing in the springs without bending any fins is easy but you will need a long screwdriver. it needs to be longer than the ninja is high (the screwdriver will slot through the gap in each corner of the heatsink, to tighten the screws)
FartingBob wrote:And why do you have your fan setup facing the top of the case? I can see your RAM would be in the way for a normal positioning, but why not the opposite side with a pull system.
well, the fan is actual facing the bottom of the case , by facing i mean the direction of airflow would be from top down. but i am not using a case, this motherboard sits flat, in open air, so the airflow direction for me is not so relevant. you are correct that the RAM prevents me from putting the fan in the 'usual' place.
i am hoping to provide some cooling for GPU with this same airflow as well mind you

wim
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Post by wim » Sun Mar 30, 2008 3:52 pm

Nutstree wrote:First of all. Arent you using way to much pasta between your CPU and HS? I mean, I use the size of 1 grain of rice which I spread out by using a creditcard or something..
pasta or rice?? :lol:
maybe it is a little bit too much, i have always previously used a very thin amount and spread it out just like you described, but this time i was trying a 'dollop' method after seeing a recent news posting and trying to copy what was shown here
Nutstree wrote:You can see he has a Thermalright HR-03 GPU heatsink.
this is not correct.. it is actually the stock heatsink on a sparkle 8800GT

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Post by yamahaSHO » Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:22 pm

nyu3 wrote:Don't remove the plastic from the backplate. It is for electrical insulation.
You know, my bolt-thru kit didn't come with the plastic... It's been working fine with my Minja. My TRUE came with the plastic though.

sjoukew
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Post by sjoukew » Mon Mar 31, 2008 10:39 am

you can disassemble the push-pins without destroying them as described in the picture, you need to bend back a plastic tab and then they come apart in 2 pieces one either side of the metal bracket.
You can also do this by turning the black "thingies" against the arrows on it, (90 degrees),they will come loose even nicer as you did with a screw driver.
They are completely "tool free" in use.

wim
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Post by wim » Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:29 pm

thejamppa wrote:OCZ Reaper memories are quite nasty looking for the memory modules ^^
i agree they are hideous.. :roll: why would anyone need heatpipes on RAM, i thought they draw something like 1W each or am i mistaken?
but the only other 2x2GB pair i found was a corsair set and they had higher latency

thejamppa
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Post by thejamppa » Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:49 pm

wim wrote:
thejamppa wrote:OCZ Reaper memories are quite nasty looking for the memory modules ^^
i agree they are hideous.. :roll: why would anyone need heatpipes on RAM, i thought they draw something like 1W each or am i mistaken?
but the only other 2x2GB pair i found was a corsair set and they had higher latency
That is one way of marketing. Memories are something that do not differ that much when it comes from manufacturer's. Only way you can really differ is the latencies but that doesn't appeal so much the consumer regular consumer who is just shopping. The looks however do appeal and making memories stand out is one of the selling points. Mean looking memories make memories stand out from the crowd. That is why there are water cooled memories, Reaper memories and Corsair Dominator style memories.

Although water cooling helps when you overclock significantly memories, major reason for making water cooling memories is still to make them differ from the crowd.

anakintjc
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Post by anakintjc » Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:43 am

On the front where the 4 bolts touch the mobo, is it necessary to isolate the contact points (with plastic rings) ?

mkawa
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Post by mkawa » Tue Apr 01, 2008 12:53 am

the retention hardware doesn't touch the top of the board, so no dielectric is needed

JLee
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Post by JLee » Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:15 am

best post ever.
thanks op

akrasiel1101
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TR Bolt-thru kit w/ Scythe Mugen (Infinity)??

Post by akrasiel1101 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 7:04 am

Does anyone know if the TR bolt-thru kit would work on the Scythe Mugen (Infinity)??? I'm not thrilled with the plastic push pins that Scythe provided with the Infinity and would like to use bolts instead. Any thoughts?

FartingBob
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Post by FartingBob » Tue Apr 08, 2008 5:45 am

I just installed the bolt through kit and it immediately knocked 5c off my idle and load temps after 30 minutes. And i expect that number to increase as the thermal paste settles and spreads.

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Post by bgavin » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:48 am

Thanks to the OP for the great pictures... and for showing how well this works on the GA-P35-DS3 board. I've settled on using this board for all my clients' machines.

Somebody correct me if wrong, but I've been spreading AS5 paste using a razor blade. This gives me a very thin, even coat. I get very low temp deltas with this technique on Socket 462 stuff. I'm just now getting into 478, 775 processors, and assume this technique will work just as well.

To the OP, can you install the HR-05 IFX north bridge cooler on your board, with that big tower in place?

wim
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Post by wim » Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:14 pm

sorry i don't know.. i have no reason to try because the north bridge on this board is already passively cooled sufficiently

bgavin
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Post by bgavin » Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:17 am

I am building a DS3 (no R) and this board does indeed have the much larger NB heat sink. I've read reviews on the DS3L where the NB runs scalding hot... don't want that.

I ordered the Scythe Zipang cooler, which should blow straight down on the stock NB sink.

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Re: bolt-thru upgrade for ninja revB (pics)

Post by cpemma » Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:59 am

wim wrote:the backplate had plastic stuff on it that i wasn't sure whether to remove or not, so i left it on. does anyone here know if this is correct or not..??
The backplate has a self-adhesive black square fitted, with the sticky bit protected by a white plastic "frame". I suppose one could remove the protective plastic and stick the backplate to the motherboard - it may make it possible to remove and refit the sink without removing the motherboard from the case. However, that would make it more difficult to reuse the backplate on a different motherboard. So most people seem to leave the adhesive covered up.

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