NSK2400 Build Complete

qviri · Post by **qviri** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 1:22 pm

jimmyfergus wrote:Looks to me like you just left the rear panel off it. Doesn't that panel provide most of the structural integrity? I would have thought there's little to stop it going all parallelogram on you without it. At least you don't have the weight of a CRT on top of it.

It seems to me that the internal shelves (forming the cross) would prevent that. Though maybe you wouldn't want to test their strength with a large CRT.

MC FLMJIG · Post by **MC FLMJIG** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 1:33 pm

Cabinet does look nice. What does something like that go for? maybe something with just 2 spaces under TV. I like less.

Hope you don't mind OP.

Some of my stuff finally came in.

Im using stock heatsink...

Dirty mounting because I haven't cleaned the CPU or heatsink which in turn means I haven't added AS Ceramique.

I have a generic 80mm undervolted to 7v and it does a great job cooling as you can see and it is pretty much inaudible. It would be silent at 5v. The Tricools are making MUCH more noise especially when I close the case. Need to order some Loons and maybe dremel the sides and add mesh.

Have a mess as I just came back from overseas. (Women and their flowers and plants. They have to go.) Just bought the TV and I need to make a black wooden "box" to mount it or even better a cabinet like Op's is best. Very nice I must say Ciz.

Here are temps... I think I could probably go a tad lower @ 2.o. I haven't really played with my OC yet... I have a 3500 and just dropped the multi to 10... I don't like the way the memory is all screwed up with an 11 multi.

I could go as low as 1.15 @ stock. However I have it at 1.32- 1.35 and OCed to 2.6. Temps on idle with the "dirty" application are still @ 33. Load it stays 45. When I don't game or anything heavy I drop it to 2.0 and 1.15V.

Once my 7950GT comes I want to see if temps change. Probably will.

ciz28 · Post by **ciz28** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 1:55 pm

jimmyfergus wrote:Looks great, I'm contemplating something very similar. In fact, I already have the same Ikea TV cabinet. I was thinking I'd have to do something for ventilation involving ducts and/or a fan on the cabinet itself.

Looks to me like you just left the rear panel off it. Doesn't that panel provide most of the structural integrity? I would have thought there's little to stop it going all parallelogram on you without it. At least you don't have the weight of a CRT on top of it.

I didn't really think about the structural integrity that the backing provides until after I had already ripped it off. I had initially just tried cutting some vents towards the top, but it didn't do anything to help the heat exhaust. Now that the backing is completely off, I think the cabinet is off by a total of one degree, since the doors just barely don't line up quite right any more. Like you mentioned, I'm glad I don't have a heavy CRT on top of it. Although the maximum weight it can support is probably a lot lower, it works fine with my particular setup.

I would eventually like to end up with something like this for my A/V components: http://www.htbuddy.com/Tech_Craft_Venic ... nvh480.htm

The only thing really keeping me from going with this route is that I don't know what to do with my TV. I'm still renting an apartment, so I don't want to wall mount it. But then again, if I'm going to have a stand anyways for the TV, why not just put the components underneath it?

MC FLMJIG wrote:Cabinet does look nice. What does something like that go for? maybe something with just 2 spaces under TV. I like less.

Hope you don't mind OP.

Here is a link to it: http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... r=30086752
It's just a cheap MDF veneer construction, but it holds up pretty well and looks decent enough. I'm still just out of college, so I'm not exactly looking to spend thousands of dollars on furniture yet

MC FLMJIG · Post by **MC FLMJIG** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 2:10 pm

Both look very nice.

I'min the same dilema as you. It's getting cold in NY and I want to start looking for a house soon. I'm sick of renting. Ned something smaller and nicer so I can use it even if we move.

jimmyfergus · Post by **jimmyfergus** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:54 am

ciz28 wrote:I had initially just tried cutting some vents towards the top, but it didn't do anything to help the heat exhaust.

Yeah, I tried that inside a cabinet once too; I made some large holes high and low thinking convection would do the work. It didn't. I imagine the fans stir things up sufficiently that convection doesn't stand a chance. A fan on the cabinet might work, but most likely the only really good way to preserve the back panel would be to duct the system fans directly out of one hole and cut another good sized inlet hole.

ciz28 wrote:Now that the backing is completely off, I think the cabinet is off by a total of one degree, since the doors just barely don't line up quite right any more.

qviri wrote:It seems to me that the internal shelves (forming the cross) would prevent that. Though maybe you wouldn't want to test their strength with a large CRT.

The vertical helps a bit, but the shelves are just resting on pegs (adjustable), and there's no diagonal bracing without the rear panel. So the only lateral strength comes from 2 screws and 2 dowels into each end of the three uprights. I would fear it will work loose over time, or collapse when someone inadvertently puts pressure on it. That's just me though - I have a CRT and small child to worry about. It would be quite effective just to screw some triangular-section blocks of wood (or metal braces) into the upper corners, out of sight.

That cabinet is pretty good (and cheap!) - though very deep for non-CRT TVs. I have a CRT still, and I got it for the doors, because my 8 month old is very interested in cables... I still have to fit locks to the doors... Right now it's just blocking off a corner of the room and my machine sits in a desktop case in the island of space behind it. My intention is a full upgrade - NSK-2400 housing dual core, and 2Mb, to run MythTV and a 2-3 virtual machines via VMWare.

matt_garman · Post by **matt_garman** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:24 pm

ciz28 wrote: ...
Abit NF-M2 nView motherboard
Thermalright SI-128 CPU heatsink
...

I can't tell from the pics: does the SI-128 over hang the PCI-Express slot at all? I.e., if you wanted more power than the onboard video, could you fit a PCI-Express video card in there?

Thanks!
Matt

MC FLMJIG · Post by **MC FLMJIG** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:55 pm

Yes. I have an XP 120 and the SI is just taller and a tiny bit wider. I also have an 7950 in there as well.

The clips might pose a tiny problem but just dont put them on with the power switch on the PSU on. It touches the back of the card when putting on.

I believe you should be able to close the case as I've see a few SI 120 and 128 in side this case and the case closed.

vincentfox · Post by **vincentfox** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:58 pm

I am working on a similar build. However, I am thinking seriously about water-cooling like Zalman Reserator-2 or something similar. In this way I can leave the cabinet with it's back on. All I have to do is snake out the water-lines and almost all of my heat-dissipation can happen outside the cabinet. Sounds good in theory anyhow......

ciz28 · Post by **ciz28** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:04 pm

matt_garman wrote:I can't tell from the pics: does the SI-128 over hang the PCI-Express slot at all? I.e., if you wanted more power than the onboard video, could you fit a PCI-Express video card in there?

Thanks!
Matt

The fifth picture down gives a pretty good shot of what you need. There's plenty of clearance, assuming of course that you don't have some crazy cooling solution on your video card.

ciz28 · Post by **ciz28** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:09 pm

vincentfox wrote:I am working on a similar build. However, I am thinking seriously about water-cooling like Zalman Reserator-2 or something similar. In this way I can leave the cabinet with it's back on. All I have to do is snake out the water-lines and almost all of my heat-dissipation can happen outside the cabinet. Sounds good in theory anyhow......

Just make sure you consider the other stuff like chipsets, video card (possibly), hard drives, CPU voltage regulators, etc. To be honest, you'd probably end up with just as much general case airflow with or without water cooling. Then you're just trading a CPU/video fan for a water pump and possibly a fan on the radiator. Either way, good luck with your build

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