Front, back, top fans...

Control: management of fans, temp/rpm monitoring via soft/hardware

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Kate
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Front, back, top fans...

Post by Kate » Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:34 pm

I have the following "set" of fans:

- 2x Nexus D12SL-12 Black and White;
- 2x Noctua NF-S12 1200


What combination / placement of fans would give a better AIRFLOW in a p182 chassis?

Should I use the highest CFM fans for intake fan? or blowing the hot air out?

Anyone have studied this??

The way I think... i would place the two high-cfm, high pressure fans as intake, and the two noctuas as exhaust fans, does it make any sense to think this way?

blackworx
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Post by blackworx » Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:38 pm

Best way to find out is to put on your lab coat and do an experiment.

Can't remember your setup offhand and I'm supposed to be getting ready for work so no time to go digging, but FWIW I would steer away from having anything major on the intakes; they'll add noise but probably very little cooling benefit.

samuelmorris
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Post by samuelmorris » Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:24 am

I was under the impression the Noctuas actually forced more air than the slower Nexus fans, but perhaps I've got that wrong.

alleycat
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Post by alleycat » Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:13 am

I don't use intake fans, and instead rely on the exhaust fan(s) to pull air through the case. I prefer to design the system so that it is fairly well sealed, and cool air enters the case at a particular point, for example where an intake fan is supposed to go. I once built a system where I taped up the intake fan hole, cut a hole in the floor of the case, and installed some rubber feet to raise the case off the ground a cm or so.

There has been a fair bit of discussion on this before, and I believe the consensus was that intake fans are often unnecessary, and in some situations could cause temperatures to increase because of a pressure mismatch between the inlet and exhaust fans causing them to operate less efficiently.

There would certainly be no harm in removing (not simply disabling) any intake fans and checking your temperatures. This is one of those situations where reality beats theory, so you'll need to experiment.

catkin
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Re: Front, back, top fans...

Post by catkin » Fri Feb 20, 2009 2:50 am

Kate wrote:I have the following "set" of fans:

- 2x Nexus D12SL-12 Black and White;
- 2x Noctua NF-S12 1200


What combination / placement of fans would give a better AIRFLOW in a p182 chassis?

Should I use the highest CFM fans for intake fan? or blowing the hot air out?

Anyone have studied this??

The way I think... i would place the two high-cfm, high pressure fans as intake, and the two noctuas as exhaust fans, does it make any sense to think this way?
Hello :)

What are your design objectves? It sounds as if you are trying to maximise airflow but "more than enough is wasted".

If the output CFM differs from the input CFM then efficiency (airflow/power) will be reduced. That may not matter.

If the case has leaks and intake fan filters then, if the intake CFM is greater than the exhaust CFM the case will be slightly pressurised and this will help keep dust out; the other way round will draw dust into the case through the leaks which is a Bad Thing.

Mmm ... historically only exhaust fans were fitted. I suspect most of us still have exhaust fans only, thus drawing dust into our systems through any case leaks. Perhaps we should switch over to intake fans only ... ?

In a P182 you also have the PSU fan to consider or is your question about the upper chamber only?

Do you have hotspot cooler fans in addition to your set of four -- CPU, GPU, Southbridge ... ?

Best

Charles

Kate
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Post by Kate » Fri Feb 20, 2009 10:26 am

Hello Catkin,

Ideally I would like to maxime cooling, and if possible not adding noise and if I could get dust out it would be great.. However I know I cannot get everything I want, it has to be choices!

I would like to keep the components as cool as possible, and having the lowest noise possible, I have a nForce 790i Ultra motherboard, which runs "hot" and I want to try to keep it as cool as possible.

I guess the idea of using high CFM as intake is good.. so

I use the two noctua for intake (upper chamber and psu chamber) and the two nexus for exhaust (top and back)? Noctua have higher CFM, right?

I wish antec would give us a possibility of having a side fan, to remove the hot air from SPP, MCP, video cards, CPU and motherboard...

CyberDog
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Post by CyberDog » Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:59 pm

Hi. I have same case as you except I run all noctuas. I tried different speeds. And best (noise vs temp) configuration for upper chamber was for me to run all fans with the ulna adapters. My temps didn't lower more than 1-4 *C with lna adapers or without the adapters. But I have done the filter door modifications.

pcy
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Post by pcy » Fri Feb 20, 2009 2:02 pm

Hi,


In order to achieve your objectives you need to adopt a quantitive approach, and actully figure out how much airflow you need., and where the air needs to go inside the case.

Sorry to be harsh, but statements like
I guess the idea of using high CFM as intake is good.. so
while true, contain no useful information.


What you have to do is determine how much power/heat is consumed/generated inside the case, and crucially how much of that heat is exported directly and how much is allowed to recirculate inside the case.

Then you need to decide what the maximimum ambient temperature (i.e the temperature in the room outside the case) and what the maximum internal case temperature can be and still provide adaquate cooling to the components inside the case.

This gives you the Max Temperature Delta - the max amount by which the internal Case temperature can exceed Ambient Temperature


This leads directly to the required airflow:

Total Recirculating Power (i.e. excluding any power exported directly) in Watts x 1.8 /Max Temperture Delta = Required Airflow in CFM.


Armed with this figure you can start to design the fan layout. If you want to keep your computer clean inside you will need to put an air filter accross the air intake. The trick is to make the air filter area as large as possible- in my experience an air filter should be at least 20,000 mm*2 (i.e 14cm x 14cm or more) depending on how much air resistance the material you select for your air filter causes, or you run the risk of needing to increase the case ventilation fan speeds. Over 40,000 mm*2 for the air filter you definately run into the law of diminishing returns for a typical modern PC.

You also need to look at the fan placement to ensure that there is airflow to all the places where heat producing components are located, and if necessary place internal fans to direct the flow. In a well designed case this should not be necessary.


You can have input or output fans to create this required airflow, and despite what others may say it does not matter which. All that matters is that you cannot count both when calculating airflow. Specifically, if air will flow through either one fan or another (i.e they are acting in parallel) you can count both/all of them, but if air passes throught multiple fans (i.e. one input and one output, in series) you can only count one of these fans.


For given airflow you will minimize noise by maximizing the total area of the fans running in parallel with eachother.


The PSU fan counts as an output fan. The CPU fan, even if it is set up to export all the hot air straight out of the PC (as it should be) has to be dicounted by at least 50% - the CPU cooler offers massive resistance to airflow. Any fan which has the characteristic that the air coming out of it has the ability to recirculate does not count at all.



I appreciate this is borring, detailed, and looks like hard work; but it is a set of tools that turn the problem of designing the airflow though a computer in order to cool it into something soluable by simple, though painstaking analysis.




Peter

BillyBuerger
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Post by BillyBuerger » Fri Feb 20, 2009 2:28 pm

Kate wrote: I wish antec would give us a possibility of having a side fan, to remove the hot air from SPP, MCP, video cards, CPU and motherboard...
*shudders* One of the big reasons why I like Antec cases is the lack of side vents. I was sad when they added them to the NSK3480 after not having them in the NSK3300. But at the very least you can just swap the sides and then the vent is on the back side. Yes, side fans allow for a lot of air to get in and directly at some of the hotter components. But it's also a closer path for noise (compared to the back) and can leave pockets of dead air in the front were hard drives tend to be.

blackworx seemed to suggest that you posted your system specs somewhere else. Can you post them here? That would help. You did mention the 790i chipset and that is definitely hot. Do you use a tower or blow down cpu heat sink? Blow down would seem to be a better choice to make sure the chipset gets plenty of airflow.

Another thing to think about is how effective your airflow is. On my low-powered system, if I leave the rear case on at 12V as it is, my CPU will get very warm as it's a fairly short heat sink with no fan on it. About the size of your chipset heat sinks probably. But the air getting blown out of the case is just about at ambient. So I put a duct in place to direct the air across the motherboard instead of just pulling it along the outside. Now I can run it at very low speeds and my CPU stays very cool. It's not always how much airflow but where that airflow is going. Again, with your hot chipset, I would think an important part of your cooling is going to be getting airflow around them. So top-down cooler or ducting or some sort of spot cooling fan blowing at them will probably do more to keep things cool and at lower fan speeds that more intake and exhaust fans.

Last, it was my understanding that the Noctua NF-S12 was worse in higher pressure situations. (It's the one with the thin widely spaced blades right?) In which case, they would be terrible for a filtered intake fan. They would be much better as an exhaust fan.

Kate
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Post by Kate » Fri Feb 20, 2009 3:38 pm

Hello PCY,

I do apreciate your help, however, I am unable to produce all that data, I do not have the knowledge nor the instruments necessary for such thing.

Unless if you can explain and show me how to get those data, I will be very willing to do that!




Hello BillyBuerger,

My system spec is fairly simple:

- Antec P182 - Gun Metal;
- Evga Nforce 790i Ultra Mother Board;
- Intel Q9550 not overlocked and undervolted;
- Xigmatek HDT-S1283 with crossbow adaptor;
- ATI 3870HD (will be 2 285GTX very very soon);
- 4 gb of Corsair DDR3 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24 (soon will be 8gb);
- Seagate HD 500gb;
- 2 Noctua NF-S12 1200 in the top and back exhaust (set at 90%);
- 2 Nexus D12SL-12 in the front intake and in the lower chamber;
- 1 AntecTricool in the middle bay (upper chamber) set to high;
- Scythe Kama PWM Fan attached to the cooler;
- 2 Samsung SyncMaster T220 22" (will be 3 monitors very very soon).

You can read about my setup in here:
viewtopic.php?t=51583

My worries are...

1- CPU Heat, which seems to be controled for now;
Everest reports me 44-33-40-40 for the CPU - Open Case
Everest reports me 47-35-43-42 for the CPU - Closed case

2- MB Heat, it is kinda scary as it gives me 49C for SPP and 55C for MCP (50-57 with closed case), which in my opinion is too much, I am afraid that when I add the 2 video cards the temps will rise beyond safety levels.
Someone at the EVGA forum told me that the maximum safe temp is around 60 for MCP, so I am not very far from that...

Recently I removed the Nvidia Heatsink, cleaned all the thermal paste and applied AS5, as instructed here:

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=583 ... y=&#583204

I believe that with proper placement of fans, I can help the P182 to remove the heat from the case, and hopefully lower the temperatures of my Motherboard & CPU.


Thanks

PS: The room temperature is not 26C

alleycat
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Post by alleycat » Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:05 pm

Glad to see my comments were basically ignored! Anyhow Kate, don't the temperatures tell the story? Your temperatures are higher with the case closed. With good system design, the temperatures should be lower with the case closed. It seems that your system has restricted airflow - you have two exhaust fans and one intake fan in the main chamber. As I mentioned above, I suggest removing the intake fan to let the case breathe easier. You really do need to experiment, I'm not suggesting this just to make you do work for no reason! It's possible to theorise, calculate, and debate things, but the only real answer will come from trying. Why make simple things complicated?

What is the Tricool for? Also, why do you have a fan in the lower chamber? Doesn't the PSU have a fan in it? Just because there is a fan mount, doesn't mean that you need to put a fan there. Cases are designed to cater for many potential configurations.

Also why haven't you installed your video cards? You need to see how everything works together. I wouldn't worry too much about the motherboard temps. It is quite common for chipsets to run very hot.

Kate
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Post by Kate » Fri Feb 20, 2009 11:04 pm

alleycat wrote: Glad to see my comments were basically ignored!
Your comment was not Ignored, I answered it when you replied, but I guess I pressed preview instead of submit, I am terribly sorry. Wont happen again, I have no intention to ignore anyone, every valid input is important for me!

alleycat wrote: ..Your temperatures are higher with the case closed. ...I suggest removing the intake fan to let the case breathe easier.

What is the Tricool for? Also, why do you have a fan in the lower chamber? Doesn't the PSU have a fan in it? ...

Also why haven't you installed your video cards? You need to see how everything works together. I wouldn't worry too much about the motherboard temps. It is quite common for chipsets to run very hot.
Well, I tried lowering the fans, when I put the intake fans on LOW the temps rise 3oC, but I havent tried removing it, I will try this tonight, as I have to open the case and remove all the intake fans manually. However I suspect that the temps will rise even more.

Originally I bought a 260 GTX however I am really thinking of paying the difference and getting a 285 instead, I heard it generates less heat, so it seems to be a very interesting thing. Also because I was (still am) having problems with high temperatures without the cards, imagine if I add them to the case... So because of that two reasons I returned the card, and I am doing a little research on the best-less-heat card and cooling solution.

alleycat wrote:I don't use intake fans, and instead rely on the exhaust fan(s) to pull air through the case... I once built a system where I taped up the intake fan hole, cut a hole in the floor of the case, and installed some rubber feet to raise the case off the ground a cm or so.

There has been a fair bit of discussion on this before, and I believe the consensus was that intake fans are often unnecessary...

There would certainly be no harm in removing (not simply disabling) any intake fans and checking your temperatures. ..
I will post the results in the next post! :)

Thank you Alleycat, and once again, I did not ignore you... I swear that I replied to your comment, but it didnt get posted, I bet I hit preview and closed the window thinking it went thru... It happened before, I am honestly sorry...

I will pay more attention next time!

Kate
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Post by Kate » Sat Feb 21, 2009 12:35 am

Ok, took me a couple of hours but I did it

I tested the temperatures with all intake fans in low, mid and high, with the door opened and closed. I also tested the temperatures with all the fans off, gave me the same result with doors opened or closed, so I wont post the pictures.

The fans I used to test the intake was the 3x Antec TriCool (the front intake and the middle fan both in the upper chamber and the lower chamber fan near the PSU), and the exhaust fans are the Noctua (top and back).

Its worth to mention that all the exhaust fans where set in the bios at 90%, the NB cooler, was set to AUTO and the CPU cooler fan was also set to "smartfan" (auto). The graphics card got its fan tweaked at 58% using the RivaTuner. Also I have applied the front grille "hack" to ensure better air flow.

The CPU and motherboard heatsink was properly re-seated with AS5 (on fev, 19 4pm).

The CPU heatsink was prepared and the thermal paste was applied following this GUIDE

And the motherboard heatsink was prepared following this GUIDE


In order to get "accurate" temps, I waited around 15 minutes to take each screen shot.

I used Everest Ultimate Trial, to check temperatures (MB, CPU, MCP, SPP), CPU-Z to monitor activity, Riva Tuner 2.23 to check GPU temperature and RealTemp 3.05 (uncalibrated C1, C2, C3, C4) to check CPU temps.

The room temperature was around 26C.

FANS....MB....CPU....C1....C2....C3....C4....MCP....SPP....GPU

Door Opened

LOW.....32......34......48....34....42.....42.....58.......51......56
MID......31......34......46....34....42.....42.....56.......50......55
HIGH....31......33......46....34....42.....42.....55.......50......55

Door Closed

LOW.....33......36......48....37....44.....43.....59.......52......58
MID......32......36......49....36....43.....43.....57.......51......57
HIGH....32......35......48....36....44.....42.....56.......50......56


OFF......38.......36.....50.....36...44......43....60........52......59


Print Screens:

All intake fans LOW - Door Opened:
Image

All intake fans MID - Door Opened:
Image

All intake fans HIGH - Door Opened:
Image

All intake fans LOW - Door Closed:
Image

All intake fans MID - Door Closed:
Image

All intake fans HIGH - Door Closed:
Image

All intake fans OFF:
Image

alleycat
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Post by alleycat » Sat Feb 21, 2009 2:48 am

Hey, no worries!

It's great to see you're very thorough, and I am convinced that everything has been installed correctly. Just one thing though, and this may sound silly, but are all the fans pushing air in the correct direction?

Do you have the results with the intake fans removed? I didn't expect that lowering the speed or switching off the fans to be helpful. The aim is to remove any obstructions to airflow, and a stopped fan will block some air. Did you say that you've cut out the intake grille?

Where is the middle fan in the upper chamber located and what is it for?

I was reading through this thread again, and earlier you mentioned that you had the case open, but in your last post you were talking about having the door open/closed. Did you mean "door" all along? That's different to having the case open (ie the side of the case removed).

Kate
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Post by Kate » Sat Feb 21, 2009 3:03 am

alleycat wrote:Do you have the results with the intake fans removed? I didn't expect that lowering the speed or switching off the fans to be helpful. The aim is to remove any obstructions to airflow, and a stopped fan will block some air. Did you say that you've cut out the intake grille?

Where is the middle fan in the upper chamber located and what is it for?

I was reading through this thread again, and earlier you mentioned that you had the case open, but in your last post you were talking about having the door open/closed. Did you mean "door" all along? That's different to having the case open (ie the side of the case removed).
Hi there, no not removed, just turned off "unplugged" from power.

Not the metal grille... the plastic thingy... I dont know the name! lol

Earlier in the other posts, the case was fully open, both sides, and door open (main door only)... For this tests, the case was closed, only the main door opened, not the ones covering the grille..

The middle fan is the one attached with the clips... in the upper chamber it was ment to cool the VGA cards, I found that installing that fan would lower my temperature (SPP and MCP) in about 2 or 3 C. Look at the picture it is the fan in "A" position.


Image
* This photo was taken from THIS THREAD

alleycat
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Post by alleycat » Sat Feb 21, 2009 6:30 am

Kate wrote:no not removed, just turned off "unplugged" from power
This will restrict airflow into the case.
Kate wrote:Not the metal grille... the plastic thingy... I dont know the name!
Dust filter?
Kate wrote:it was ment to cool the VGA cards, I found that installing that fan would lower my temperature (SPP and MCP) in about 2 or 3 C
That sounds like a good idea. However I think that any fans at B, C, D, E can be removed and there will be no increase in temperatures. It seems that the door is causing some restriction to airflow which is unfortunate, as there's not much we can do about it. It's a bit disappointing, I thought this case was supposed to be well designed.

Anyway, after a quick bit of googling it seems that your temperatures are about normal (EDIT: it's only core 1 that seems to be a bit high, which leads me to think that this is not a fan problem). As far as fans are concerned, I'm not sure if you'll get much more improvement without a total redesign. Have you tested the machine under load (eg Prime95)? I would only be concerned if the processor were throttling under such conditions.
Last edited by alleycat on Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

ACook
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Post by ACook » Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:29 am

as an experiment, can you post the temps with the case open standing but also lying down on its side?

Keep an eye on your hd temperatures btw with speedfan or dtemp - they can shoot up with the case open on its side cause they got no airflow.

jaganath
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Post by jaganath » Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:00 am

Originally I bought a 260 GTX however I am really thinking of paying the difference and getting a 285 instead, I heard it generates less heat
seems like the 285 uses a bit more actually:

http://forums.atomicmpc.com.au/index.php?showtopic=264
It's a bit disappointing, I thought this case was supposed to be well designed.
The P182 is not really meant for quad CPU + Crossfire/SLI 200W+ graphics card combinations, for that you would want a P190.

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Post by thejamppa » Sat Feb 21, 2009 1:44 pm

jaganath wrote:
The P182 is not really meant for quad CPU + Crossfire/SLI 200W+ graphics card combinations, for that you would want a P190.
I think no silent case is ment for such cooling task. That is why there is so called Gamer cases, like Antec Hundred series...

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Post by Kate » Sat Feb 21, 2009 6:48 pm

alleycat wrote: Dust filter?
No not the filter, the little plastic door that we have to cut the plastic fins (?) to give a better airflow
alleycat wrote: That sounds like a good idea. However I think that any fans at B, C, D, E can be removed and there will be no increase in temperatures. It seems that the door is causing some restriction to airflow which is unfortunate, as there's not much we can do about it. It's a bit disappointing, I thought this case was supposed to be well designed.
I just discovered that with a bigger card, like Nvidia 200s you have to remove the WHOLE BAY, so that fan will not be available, only the B position... I guess I will have to start thinking of watercooling SPP, MCP or buying another cooling solution..
alleycat wrote:Anyway, after a quick bit of googling it seems that your temperatures are about normal ... As far as fans are concerned, I'm not sure if you'll get much more improvement without a total redesign. Have you tested the machine under load (eg Prime95)? I would only be concerned if the processor were throttling under such conditions.
With the CPU undervolted I never get passed 65C... After running 1 hour of prime95. The fun thing is.... For ever oC I reduce in the room temperature, they MCP & SPP temperature decreases 2 degree C, thats actually funny! I have to do more testing on this.

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Post by Kate » Sat Feb 21, 2009 6:53 pm

ACook,

I will do the testing next week... This week is very problematic for me, lots of work and such... I will post the results here pretty soon!

jaganath,

Interesting, i heard that 285 where cooler due to a new redesing... well...

I didnt know about that, I might have to start thinking about water cooling.

thejamppa,

Which is a shame... I do not want to spend more money buying another case, I like the P182 look, and its a keep... I will however find a way to use water cooling or something else that keep my temps down.


----

Thank you all!

alleycat
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Post by alleycat » Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:34 pm

If you're not overheating when running Prime95, then you're ok. What is Nvidia's thermal spec for the chipset?

Kate
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Post by Kate » Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:12 am

alleycat wrote:If you're not overheating when running Prime95, then you're ok. What is Nvidia's thermal spec for the chipset?
Hi there!, that is one of the MAIN problems, because I do not know, and the information is not available anywhere else. In the EVGA forum a person told me it would be best not to have 60oC or more (for MCP/SPP) constantly, and if you come to think I am almost there!!

My other concern is, of course the heat generated and dissipated by the video card, if there is a way to blow the hot air OUTSIDE the case, than it would help.

I spent almost the whole week looking for a way to put a fan on the side of P182, I even though about buying a door with a window mod, but I am not really sure if this will lower the temperature the way I want.

I am willing to buy some acrilic, cuttting a hole for the the fan, and adapting on the case, just to check if the temperature will be lower. If I can reach 35-40oC for the MCP then Im happy, and I will forget about watercooling.

Thank you! :)

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Post by alleycat » Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:11 am

I appreciate your concern, however the opinion of "someone" on a forum is not a good enough reason to change your entire cooling setup. Also, given that your motherboard did not come with any specific warnings about temperatures, you will be covered by the warranty.

Rather than guessing, wait until you have all components installed, then check temperatures. If necessary there may be a way of mounting a fan on a bracket to help dissipate heat, and there may be some other tricks that you can try. Having your computer running hot for a short time while trying to work out a solution won't hurt anything.

If it's any consolation, I've got a low-airflow system with an Intel northbridge that's been running at 60C for years. It is burning hot to the touch, and at first I was alarmed, but it has operated flawlessly throughout that time. Many others have similar experiences.

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Post by Kate » Sun Feb 22, 2009 9:10 pm

Hello Alleycat,

Warranty is very subjective, as you may have noticed I am not american, my english is terrible and my writing is horrible!

I am Japanese, living in Brazil, I was educated in Canada, but I am not Canadian. I have dual citizenship Japanese and Brazilian, and thats it!

The watercooling "way" is indeed a bit agressive, and will not be made until I am 100% sure that it is really needed, but I want to consider that as a possibility other than the "just buy another case" philosophy, not that you said that tho! :)

The computer for me is not disposable, and I know it is not the "creme de la creme" computer, but I do want to have it running for at least 3 years before even thinking of making a substancial change to it.

I am fully aware that I should not take any unnecessary steps or even having to worry about something that still is not a problem. However, I would like to see it as a concern, and based on the "concern" I would like to know the possible solutions.

For my own enjoyingment and learning I will buy a hard plastic or acrilyc cut it the size of the computer case door, and attach an exhausting fan, i might not even use acrylic, maybe a thick carton cut a hole, add the fan, and stick it to the case, just to study the effect of having a side exhaust fan.

Depending on the results, I will know one of the possibilities, also I am already studying about watercooling, and considering its risks, the part I really hate about the whole watercooling thing, is the maintenance, ideally the computer should be able to run endlessly, without any human tweak, unfortunatelly reality is not that way.

I know some computers are hot, some aren´t, but truth be said... I dont want to think that I might be overheating my cute little baby, I dont want to look at it, and see a sad face... Remember the old macs? Sometimes we used to turn it on, and a sad computer would show up? X.X

LOL! Anyways, thank you! I will carry on my tests, and with the permission of all, I would like to posts the coments here, and I do appreciate all inputs, if anyone wants to do give me pointers, or ideas I am very willing to try, because that is the way of learning...

Thank you!

PS: I read about submertion in oil.. YUCK! scratch that from the possible experiments! :p


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EDIT: Guys please... Look the pictures (results) I posted a few messages ago... Look the CPU temp, given my Bios/Everest and the CORE 2 temperature given by RealTemp 3.05... In all cases they are VERY close, is it possible that the actual temperature is the one reported by Everest, and maybe the CPU sensors are "rotten"? Or Maybe only the sensor is CORE 2 is working ok??

CyberDog
Posts: 206
Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:54 am
Location: Kuopio, Finland

Post by CyberDog » Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:46 am

Having that much variation on temperatures. There is a possibility that you IHS is not straight. Or your heat sink is not straight. You might want to check what kind of temps you get with the stock cooler. You have that? Or then there is a problem on that how your cores are stressed. But I don't think that's the reason.

Btw. I you want to ad more inflow to your case. You might want to buy Scythe KamaBay or similar. That way you ad one filtered inlet.

Kate
Posts: 194
Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:15 pm
Location: *-Home-*

Post by Kate » Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:41 pm

CyberDog wrote:Having that much variation on temperatures. There is a possibility that you IHS is not straight. Or your heat sink is not straight. You might want to check what kind of temps you get with the stock cooler. You have that? Or then there is a problem on that how your cores are stressed. But I don't think that's the reason.

Btw. I you want to ad more inflow to your case. You might want to buy Scythe KamaBay or similar. That way you ad one filtered inlet.
I was seriously thinking about trying the stock cooler, however, I have noticed that when using the computer fully open, the temperatures quite drop a lot, also the temperature reported by Everest/Bios is very close to the temperature reported by RealTemp 3.05 CORE 2.

So I think that maybe the sensor is not very well calibrated.

Thank you!

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