![Image](http://www.neo-geo.com/personal/i5-fanless/build2/tnn-cables.jpg)
![Image](http://www.neo-geo.com/personal/i5-fanless/build2/custom_cables/cables.jpg)
![Image](http://www.neo-geo.com/personal/i5-fanless/build2/custom_cables/24-pin.jpg)
Custom cables made by Martin of PsychoSleeve.
http://www.psychosleeve.com/
Request page for these custom cables:
http://www.neo-geo.com/personal/i5-fanl ... quest.html
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
Airflow: Not an issue since this is fanless build without any airflow (or noise) whatsoever.edh wrote:I definitely like the effort that has gone in here but I am not a fan of individually sleeved cables as they remove any performance advantage that there is in sleeving cables up in the first place to improve airflow and tidyness. That's got to be about 1.2m of cabling and by that point I would also be worried about the resistance added.
Yes, but single braided cables would be tidier, regardless of if they're custom made or not. Unifying everything together in bundles that go to the same location is obvious. The only reason ever to separate things is if they are going to different locations or are likely to interfere with each other, for example separating mains electricity from signal cables in trunking.NeoGeo wrote:[Tidiness: Custom cables allow for optimal tidiness because they allow you to use cable lengths of the exact desired length.
Check on 80plus and see if you can find a modular PSU that matches a non-modular PSU exactly for efficiency. There is always a difference and adding connections and cable length effects this by adding resistance. Why not just custom mount the PSU in the case so that it is adequately cooled? Or buy a Seasonic in the first place? The Silverstone is a little long in the tooth now for efficiency.NeoGeo wrote:Concern of resistance (data loss) resulting from cable length: Seriously? As you can see, the data cables are the absolute shortest lengths available for this configuration (SATA data for DVD burner and SATA x4 data for SSDs in RAID 10). The absolute longest length of cable running from a direct connection to the PSU to its target device is 46.5” (3.8’ or 1.18 meters).
I wouldn't be bothered about the Earths magnetic field. Although the earths core does very slightly rotate faster than the crust this is minor. There can only be current induced if the magnetic field moves and this is very small unless we get to the point where the earths magnetic field is reversed in which case some audiophiles sound quality is the least of our concerns.NeoGeo wrote: Concern of resistance (from magnetic interference): The PSU will reside on a custom stand built by Sound Anchors (cut and welded to the exact dimensions of the PSU) to keep the cables elevated and well off the ground to prevent any magnetic interference from the Earth's core (I admit that this is mainly for aesthetics and not fear of resistance/interference; the vast majority of audiophiles don't bother elevating their speaker wire off the ground)
Oic. Yep, single braided definitely creates the illusion that there are more cables than there really are. To the untrained eye, this can actually be impressive as spectators are awed by the multitude of cables and ponder how complex it must be to assemble such a puzzle. I suppose the preference of single braided vs. loose is subjective. I will say that with my build, the 24-pin cable does require single braiding to a degree because of the 2-pin appendage that must branch off to power the infrared sensor (which is the initial reason I why I chose custom cabling).edh wrote:Yes, but single braided cables would be tidier, regardless of if they're custom made or not. Unifying everything together in bundles that go to the same location is obvious. The only reason ever to separate things is if they are going to different locations or are likely to interfere with each other, for example separating mains electricity from signal cables in trunking.
Ah, if the lack of PSU efficiency is what you were referring to in regards to resistance, then perhaps that's because you haven't seen my list of components yet. This is a conservative build in regards to both energy and heat by utilizing strategic components such as the 3770S, Radeon HD 7750, 2 DIMMs of 1600 MHz memory, and SSDs that only pull 0.46W each at idle and 2.11W while active. System should idle @ 50W and at full load shouldn't exceed 200W, yet the PSU is capable of 600W. If there are any measurable performance consequences that a user of this build could perceive from the extra 1.5' (0.45 meters) of power cabling, please explain.edh wrote:Check on 80plus and see if you can find a modular PSU that matches a non-modular PSU exactly for efficiency. There is always a difference and adding connections and cable length effects this by adding resistance.
Eh? Wouldn't installing the PSU into the case reduce cooling efficiency of both the case, it's internal components, and the PSU? This is a fanless system after all, so I don't see how it could possibly lower the temps of the other components of the case by having this major heat source present. Conversely, the ambient air temperature within the case should be higher than outside the case, which should contribute to higher temperatures for the PSU. In fact, I intentionally added that extra 1.5' to the power cabling so that the PSU could be placed a solid 1.25' or greater from the case, an alternative of placing the PSU on top of the case (my goal is lower temps of all components, including the PSU). Besides, mounting this particular PSU within the case (should this even be possible) would require some heavy duty double sided tape, an inadequate substitute for thermal paste in regards to heat transfer. Think of baby pandas snuggling. Their primary reason for snuggling is for the synergy of heat conservation. Pull these heat sources apart and their body temperatures drop; same basic principle should apply to these components, should it not? Please correct me if I'm wrong in this assumption!edh wrote:Why not just custom mount the PSU in the case so that it is adequately cooled?
I tried THREE (3) Seasonic fanless/silent PSUs and they all exhibited identical buzzing. I swapped the Seasonics a quite few times, yet I couldn’t perceive a difference in the decibel nor pitch of the buzzing between their fanless models. Even Seasonic themselves said the buzzing sound was normal and that exchanging would be fruitless. Either I purchased 3 brand new but defective Seasonic PSUs, or the manufacturer knows what they are talking about when they say the buzzing sound is normal. I suspect that all Seasonic fanless PSUs exhibit this buzzing. However, this is a seriously MAJOR factor to consider, something that should not affect everyone… with my fanless/silent build, the PSU resides over a foot OUTSIDE the case which means that there is zero sound buffering but this allows for unrestricted/full ventilation of the PSU (resulting in lower temps for the case, its components, and the PSU). For others, having the PSU within a closed case may very well alleviate any humming sound (coil whine) that a normal human ear could detect. 10 feet away, I could still hear it, but again, it was not inside a case and yes, my room is rather silent.edh wrote:Or buy a Seasonic in the first place? The Silverstone is a little long in the tooth now for efficiency.
haha, I don't consider myself a computer expert or an audiophile, but an enthusiast of both. Click to view my non-silent and rather inefficient ht project:edh wrote:Audiophiles are also notorisously not interested in efficiency, they'll happily burn down the rainforests and kick baby pandas to death to get anecdotally better sound quality. Hence why valves are still seen in some quipment. I've done a lot of troubleshooting work with ECG equipment and everything audiophiles complain about is minor and quite frankly irrelevant.
I hope you've filled the stand with a non-resonant material other than common play sand.NeoGeo wrote:Here's the finished custom stand for the external PSU:
That looks like some crazy high tech sand. I like it! After reading extensively on the subject, I’ve come to the conclusion that the ONLY effective speaker stand design is to be supported on sealed metal tubing filled with loose mass, such as sand. The speaker cabinet vibrations are conducted through the metal to the sand where they are effectively dissipated. All other types are either resonant or reflect vibrations back into the speaker, making the cabinet resonance worse.JJ wrote:I hope you've filled the stand with a non-resonant material other than common play sand.
http://www.starsoundtechnologies.com/micro.html
For a home theater setting, I agree wholeheartedly that floor spikes are the best option acoustically for a component designated for carpet, but I prefer the flexibility of rolling the PSU around whenever I want it moved instead of punching new holes through the carpet and its pad each time.JJ wrote:And you need to spike it. You'll achieve very few of the potential benefits by placing the PSU on a stand on casters.
The cables are with Martin of PsychoSleeve.com. I’m keeping the cable sleeve theme as is, with the blue accents, but currently having some of the cables modified to better suit this build. I’ll post new pics when cables are finished and returned to me but wanted to share the completed stand w/ PSU for now.JJ wrote:BTW, where are all the blue accents? For some reason, I don't see them in that photo.
That looks like home theater. From where I could purchase it and what about price detailsNeoGeo wrote:edh wrote:Yes, but single braided cables would be tidier, regardless of if they're custom made or not. Unifying everything together in bundles that go to the same location is obvious. The only reason ever to separate things is if they are going to different locations or are likely to interfere with each other, for example separating mains electricity from signal cables in trunking.
Oic. Yep, single braided definitely creates the illusion car dvd players that there are more cables than there really are. To the untrained eye, this can actually be impressive as spectators are awed by the multitude of cables and ponder how complex it must be to assemble such a puzzle. I suppose the preference of single braided vs. loose is subjective. I will say that with my build, the 24-pin cable does require single braiding to a degree because of the 2-pin appendage that must branch off to power the infrared sensor (which is the initial reason I why I chose custom cabling).
Ah, if the lack of PSU efficiency is what you were referring to in regards to resistance, then perhaps that's because you haven't seen my list of components yet. This is a conservative build in regards to both energy and heat by utilizing strategic components such as the 3770S, Radeon HD 7750, 2 DIMMs of 1600 MHz memory, and SSDs that only pull 0.46W each at idle and 2.11W while active. System should idle @ 50W and at full load shouldn't exceed 200W, yet the PSU is capable of 600W. If there are any measurable performance consequences that a user of this build could perceive from the extra 1.5' (0.45 meters) of power cabling, please explain.edh wrote:Check on 80plus and see if you can find a modular PSU that matches a non-modular PSU exactly for efficiency. There is always a difference and adding connections and cable length effects this by adding resistance.
This Kingwin PSU claims 92+ efficiency at 50% load.
Efficiency: On 20% / 50% / 100% loading, with 90% / 92% / 89% Efficiency
If PSU efficiency is the goal (which it's not), then I would downgrade to a modern and comparable Platinum rated 300W silent PSU to achieve 50% load in order to gain that 2% of approximate efficiency. Regardless, I don't think that such a component exists.
Eh? Wouldn't installing the PSU into the case reduce cooling efficiency of both the case, it's internal components, and the PSU? This is a fanless system after all, so I don't see how it could possibly lower the temps of the other components of the case by having this major heat source present. Conversely, the ambient air temperature within the case should be higher than outside the case, which should contribute to higher temperatures for the PSU. In fact, I intentionally added that extra 1.5' to the power cabling so that the PSU could be placed a solid 1.25' or greater from the case, an alternative of placing the PSU on top of the case (my goal is lower temps of all components, including the PSU). Besides, mounting this particular PSU within the case (should this even be possible) would require some heavy duty double sided tape, an inadequate substitute for thermal paste in regards to heat transfer. Think of baby pandas snuggling. Their primary reason for snuggling is for the synergy of heat conservation. Pull these heat sources apart and their body temperatures drop; same basic principle should apply to these components, should it not? Please correct me if I'm wrong in this assumption!edh wrote:Why not just custom mount the PSU in the case so that it is adequately cooled?
With time, perhaps a low profile, totally silent 300W+ PSU of Platinum efficiency with low to no heat dissipation and a small footprint will be available on the market. Until then, this is the best solution that I'm aware of.
I tried THREE (3) Seasonic fanless/silent PSUs and they all exhibited identical buzzing. I swapped the Seasonics a quite few times, yet I couldn’t perceive a difference in the decibel nor pitch of the buzzing between their fanless models. Even Seasonic themselves said the buzzing sound was normal and that exchanging would be fruitless. Either I purchased 3 brand new but defective Seasonic PSUs, or the manufacturer knows what they are talking about when they say the buzzing sound is normal. I suspect that all Seasonic fanless PSUs exhibit this buzzing. However, this is a seriously MAJOR factor to consider, something that should not affect everyone… with my fanless/silent build, the PSU resides over a foot OUTSIDE the case which means that there is zero sound buffering but this allows for unrestricted/full ventilation of the PSU (resulting in lower temps for the case, its components, and the PSU). For others, having the PSU within a closed case may very well alleviate any humming sound (coil whine) that a normal human ear could detect. 10 feet away, I could still hear it, but again, it was not inside a case and yes, my room is rather silent.edh wrote:Or buy a Seasonic in the first place? The Silverstone is a little long in the tooth now for efficiency.
The KingWin Stryker 500 only makes a clicking sound when you turn it on and off. Since I'm not doing any critical thinking/work like typing forum posts when the system is booting or shutting off, this single and subtle click is a nonissue. Now it does have faint coil whine but it’s truly only audible when your ear is mere inches away and directly above the PSU. This KingWin is completely inaudible from a few feet away (my ears will be about 7' away) and I'm extremely pleased to have found this silent solution. Coincidentally, the heatsink color and design of the KingWin is a perfect match for the TNN-500AF.
haha, I don't consider myself a computer expert or an audiophile, but an enthusiast of both. Click to view my non-silent and rather inefficient ht project:edh wrote:Audiophiles are also notorisously not interested in efficiency, they'll happily burn down the rainforests and kick baby pandas to death to get anecdotally better sound quality. Hence why valves are still seen in some quipment. I've done a lot of troubleshooting work with ECG equipment and everything audiophiles complain about is minor and quite frankly irrelevant.
There's a link to my HT page imbedded to my HT pic (you just mouse over and click), or you can click the following to view Neo's nirvana: Revel Ultima2 + Pioneer trifecta + JL Audio f212 + ML Descent. The equipment was $60k+ retail, but I did my own installation and ordered everything online for best price I could find shipped at the time. All components and furniture were purchased new, not refurbished or second hand.Brither wrote:That looks like home theater. From where I could purchase it and what about price details
Finished cables arrived, thanks again for the help/votes in helping me decide on what color scheme to go with. I'm quite pleased with the results:JJ wrote:BTW, where are all the blue accents? For some reason, I don't see them in that photo.
The equipment being used is semi-pro, but I’m no pro with a camera and would take a class on the subject if I thought it would help. Color contrast is set to default. I tried adding another couple lights to reduce shadowing but this distorted the colors unfavorably. How do I add more depth of field? Just do auto focus on as many objects as possible? I've been avoiding using a flash because of glare and unnatural coloring.JJ wrote:You need more depth of field, and maybe another spot to eliminate shadows. Other than that, nice pic. Maybe could use a little more color contrast.
Generally speaking, you use a smaller lens aperture and longer exposure. Not sure it's easily doable in many auto modes.NeoGeo wrote:How do I add more depth of field?