Case In Box!
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Case In Box!
What do you think of this idea?
Build a box for the case (using non vibrating wood). As my case has 2 inlets and 2 exhausts, the case can be duct to 2 inlets and 2 exhausts on the box, which are going to be in the same position as the case!. The box will be covered (internally) with sound absorbing foam.
Have a look at this picture, and let me know what you think!
The internal box is the pc case, and the external box is the new box. You should be able to make out the pc-case-to-box ducts!
[edit] Picture link updated, should work now [/edit]
Build a box for the case (using non vibrating wood). As my case has 2 inlets and 2 exhausts, the case can be duct to 2 inlets and 2 exhausts on the box, which are going to be in the same position as the case!. The box will be covered (internally) with sound absorbing foam.
Have a look at this picture, and let me know what you think!
The internal box is the pc case, and the external box is the new box. You should be able to make out the pc-case-to-box ducts!
[edit] Picture link updated, should work now [/edit]
Last edited by JEN on Sun Jun 22, 2003 6:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Your box idea can work. It has been done before by many folks, and the soundproof cabinet with insulated airflow ducts idea is implemented in many commericial products that sell for US$600 to -- many thousands of $$. You might want to study their ideas.
2 key issues:
1) do your fans have enough drawing power to pull as much air through those tunnels?
2) The fan noise still has a straight path out, especially on the back panel, so how much real noise reduction will you have?
I built a massive cabinet (over 100 lbs) a while ago with folded acoustically lined tunnels for in/out airflow out of medite board. Exhaust tunnel over the PC chamber, intake tunnel below, both with vents that faced the back , which pointed at the wall under my desk, which is lined with a big piece of acoustic foam. It worked but I abandoned it because of too much heat gain and not enough noise reduction compared to my current low noise techniques.
http://www.acoustilock.com/
http://www.custom-consoles.com/ -- ISOBOX
Both of the above links can be found at Useful Web Links / Manufacturers / Miscellaneous.
2 key issues:
1) do your fans have enough drawing power to pull as much air through those tunnels?
2) The fan noise still has a straight path out, especially on the back panel, so how much real noise reduction will you have?
I built a massive cabinet (over 100 lbs) a while ago with folded acoustically lined tunnels for in/out airflow out of medite board. Exhaust tunnel over the PC chamber, intake tunnel below, both with vents that faced the back , which pointed at the wall under my desk, which is lined with a big piece of acoustic foam. It worked but I abandoned it because of too much heat gain and not enough noise reduction compared to my current low noise techniques.
http://www.acoustilock.com/
http://www.custom-consoles.com/ -- ISOBOX
Both of the above links can be found at Useful Web Links / Manufacturers / Miscellaneous.
What I think you'll want is to elevate at least 1 inch from the ground. I think you would want the exhaust from the box to not be inline with the exhaust from the PC. This will help with stopping the PC noise from escaping since you remove the direct route for the noise. This white melamine people have seems suitable for this if you don't have a lot of money. I would use 4 layers of it for this type of situation.
I have done some calculation on the noisebox idea.. and found out that you need at least 50 cfm (2 panaflo at 12V, or one 120mm) airflow. Then you still get 5C temp raise for a medium power usage system. And on top of that you would need some adjusting fans to prevent too much under- or over-pressure. Therefore its almost necessary to use watercooling in combination with the box to make it useful. Otherwise you might need to increase cooling and noise inside the box and its Status Quo.
I have also whacked my brains on how to cool a box without aircooling. But there is no real efficient way. Acoustilock, as MikeC linked, has a heatpipe aircooling system, completely passive and airtight. But that box is like $5000.
(Sideparagraph. Please skip if bored.)
One of the more whacky ideas I have is to have the computer in a compressure chamber. Law of thermodynamics says that you need more energy for more pressure. So.. you could prevent tempraise of air by applying increasing pressure with temp raise. Problem is that you have to vent the system eventually, secondly I dont know what high airpressure does to computer components. In effect you would have a computer dead silent.. but a huge strange contraption of metal, with a compressor that makes noise.. and some 'steam engine' type of sounds every minute or so when the pressure valve opens.
(End Sideparagraph)
I think.. the better solution to noise problem is, as silence-father MikeC says, to remedy it at the source. However.. you cannot completely deaden everything by just buying the right products. Because of that, and if you like to do handywork, one might benefit from doing custom work on parts indivudially.
I think you can do alot with making your own HD silencer. You can buy them of course but they are expensive and use up more space then they have to do. If you, for instance, have 3 HDs you can fit them into one custom enclosure. Or you can try to inbox HDs directly at their mounting places.
You can also make ducts and mufflers here and there inside and outside your system. You can also build your own case which is more suited for low noise level.
What I do now is to have a box that just controls my airflow and noise paths. This combined with some furniture planning so that I try to minimize noise paths form my computer to me. The box has no extra cooling. Its just there to remedy the bad noise ergonomics of my case. A better case would be just as good. One advantage, however, with it is that it is easier and more efficient to put acoustic dampening material inside or outside this type of box than inside the computer case.
Alot of links I could post about what I have written. But too much work. Search the forum if you want more detailed info about specific ideas.
I have also whacked my brains on how to cool a box without aircooling. But there is no real efficient way. Acoustilock, as MikeC linked, has a heatpipe aircooling system, completely passive and airtight. But that box is like $5000.
(Sideparagraph. Please skip if bored.)
One of the more whacky ideas I have is to have the computer in a compressure chamber. Law of thermodynamics says that you need more energy for more pressure. So.. you could prevent tempraise of air by applying increasing pressure with temp raise. Problem is that you have to vent the system eventually, secondly I dont know what high airpressure does to computer components. In effect you would have a computer dead silent.. but a huge strange contraption of metal, with a compressor that makes noise.. and some 'steam engine' type of sounds every minute or so when the pressure valve opens.
(End Sideparagraph)
I think.. the better solution to noise problem is, as silence-father MikeC says, to remedy it at the source. However.. you cannot completely deaden everything by just buying the right products. Because of that, and if you like to do handywork, one might benefit from doing custom work on parts indivudially.
I think you can do alot with making your own HD silencer. You can buy them of course but they are expensive and use up more space then they have to do. If you, for instance, have 3 HDs you can fit them into one custom enclosure. Or you can try to inbox HDs directly at their mounting places.
You can also make ducts and mufflers here and there inside and outside your system. You can also build your own case which is more suited for low noise level.
What I do now is to have a box that just controls my airflow and noise paths. This combined with some furniture planning so that I try to minimize noise paths form my computer to me. The box has no extra cooling. Its just there to remedy the bad noise ergonomics of my case. A better case would be just as good. One advantage, however, with it is that it is easier and more efficient to put acoustic dampening material inside or outside this type of box than inside the computer case.
Alot of links I could post about what I have written. But too much work. Search the forum if you want more detailed info about specific ideas.
Have you seen the Hush or Tranquil cases?Yomat wrote:...I have also whacked my brains on how to cool a box without aircooling. But there is no real efficient way. Acoustilock, as MikeC linked, has a heatpipe aircooling system, completely passive and airtight. But that box is like $5000.
The Hush case isn't sold seperately, but the Tranquil one is: about £350 for a barebones thing (US$ cost / availablity I don't know, but they ship globably. Its mini-itx though, so may not suit all).
But regardless of costs etc, the underlying idea is sound: they both use heat pipes going from internal components to the sides of case itself, where the side pannel(s) of the case are themselves utterly massive external heatsinks. So a fully enclosed case with no airducts.
I can imagine a higher powered system using external (big / quiet) fans for the external heatsinks (or water cooling): now we're getting into new styles of case design..
Sorry: lots of edits, but I've never done the URL BBcode thing before!
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Almost forgot -- Like this system in the Boxing & watercooling article by Michael Greene.Therefore its almost necessary to use watercooling in combination with the box to make it useful.
Very true: neither of these systems is very high spec: it was just the external heat sink ideology that looked of interest as you were talking about airtight (-ish) case systems. And the Hush case looking gorgeous!Yomat wrote:
Yes. But that is with sacrificing performance. I could do that with any case. Wont look as good though.
There is not details about the Hush-variant but the Tranquil does not seem to have any type of HD silencing.
There is a review of the Hush PCs'internals on mini-itx
To quote them: The hard drive is enclosed in an aluminium case and mounted on thermal transfer pads, which serve to both channel heat towards the fins and out of the case, and also handily deaden vibrations from the drive.