That's excellent work. Could you determine what caused the impeller to rattle around in the first place? In the first picture, it looks like the metal cross might be a little chewed up. Did you notice any change in your bios temps? I wouldn't think it would change much if at all becuse of the alread...

I believe those have aluminum turbulators inside the copper tubes, unfortunately, which makes them a very poor choice for watercooling. I emailed Derale about the 7000 series last night, in fact, just to make sure. There is another brand called Flex-a-Lite that I'm looking into, but I think they mig...

What's really amazing is that the guy started the thread by asking what the difference was between air and water cooling, then builds this huge system with no prior knowledge of watercooling. While I'm sure there are a couple ways that thing could be improved, I imagine the performance is excellent ...

I finished building my first radiator box last week and finally took some decent pictures. I used an 8000 series Derale transmission cooler that is designed for a gross vehicle weight of over 22000 pounds. It's all aluminum (gasp!), and the finned area measures 11.25"x11"x0.75", with about 13 fins p...

The foam is some kind of high-density packing foam that Dell and HP/Compaq use to send replacement parts. Not sure where you could buy it, perhaps UPS, FedEx, or another packing store. I was wrong about not needing the foam in my earlier post. When I first started the pump, the ambient noise was lou...

There are no commercially available kits for water-cooling a power supply (as far as I know). You can do it yourself, but it's going to require some skill and know-how. Here's a picture of one.

Have any of these computer companies considered the fact that maybe it's not a good idea to put bright lights on or in any equipment that's going in a home theater installation? There's nothing more annoying than watching a movie in the dark and being distracted by a blue LED bright enough to light ...

That is correct, the stock Reserator setup does not benefit much from a higher-flow, higher-head pump. The Reserator itself does have some flow restrictions that could have been avoided with slightly better design, I think. The inlet and probably outlet that are built into the base make very tight, ...

The Reserator comes with instructions oon how to remove the pump, but basically you unscrew the bottom of the Reserator, remove the pump, screw in a metal plug, screw the bottom back onto the Reserator and you're ready to go. You can always re-install the pump later if you need to, and the Reserator...

I bought the MSI Neo2 Platinum and have been very happy with it. Before that board I had purchased a K8T800-based Abit board, but had major problems with it because the AGP lock did not function. While attempting to overclock my CPU, I nearly burned up my video card, and it actually overlcocks to a ...

I recently built a radiator box with 4 Yate Loon 120mm fans controlled by a Nexus 205 fan controller. It works perfectly, except that I cannot turn the fans down enough with the Nexus. On the lowest setting, there is still a fair amount of noise (sounds like airflow mostly, but might be the fan moto...

I decided to go with the Swiftech Laing DDC. I just installed it a couple days ago, and I'm very pleased with the extremely low noise/vibration output combined with fairly good flow. I have it encased in foam, but I don't think that was really necessary. It's not silent, but it's VERY quiet in my op...

I'm running mine that way on an MSI Nforce3 motherboard. I had to play around with the little mounting tabs for awhile to get the thing fastened down, but it works. I doubt it makes much of a difference, but it was entertaining so I did it anyway.

The Zalman blue tubing will stretch over the DDC barbs with very little effort. Make sure you buy a couple of small hose clamps to hold the hose once it's installed. Don't forget to prime the pump before starting it. FWIW, i agree entirely with dukeman. This pump barely vibrates and makes almost no ...

The Reserator would be quieter than your current setup by a large margin. I don't know if it would be able to cool all of the components you have listed. I have an Athlon 64 3000 with the same video card you have, and it was able to keep those and the chipset fairly cool with basically no sound (the...

Someone at ProCooling measured the startup power draw at something like 1.5 amps on their DDC, which is fairly low and should not be a big drain on your power supply. Either way, at least it's working again

That's a WB2 GOLD. There is no exposed copper, thus it should function better, corrosion-wise, when used with aluminum. ANY system with aluminum should have anticorrosives though, as aluminum will corrode even if it's the only metal in the loop.

Someone just posted some info about Laing DDC pump problems over at ProCooling. It appears that there were a few pumps with a microprogramming problem that causes the pumps to fail to start. The links below explain it better, and Bill from Swiftech said he'll convey more info on this as soon as more...

The Zalman GPU blocks can be a real pain to install, as the hose fittings are on either side and run parallel to the motherboard. I've tried them on 3 different motherboards, and there were different problems with each of them depending on where the northbridge and its heatsink mounting holes are lo...

And if you bought the device used.. ? You could give the warranty a try anyway. If they don't want to play, just purchase either another Eheim 300 or use an external pump like a more reliable Eheim 1048 or Laing DDC. Keep in mind that those pumps will not be as quiet as the stock pump unless you is...

I managed to get my base off with the help of a friend. One of us held the tower upside down while the other used both hands to twist the base free. We tried this for a few minutes with no success until one of us came up with the idea of using rubber dish gloves to give better grip on the cap. Once ...

Someone here said that the DDC can be made close to silent only with some heavy sound deadening material. I have a DDC that I'm integrating into a radiator box with several inches of foam surrounding the pump like a coffin (not wrapped directly against the pump). Do these pumps need any air cooling,...

They are refering to your original statement:

I took the EXOS Aluminum, a liter bottle of Coca Cola, my screwdriver, and some pliers, and locked myself in my room for 3 hours.

So what are you going to do with the Reserator? Did you remove the whole kit from your PC, or just the tower?

Oooh, you're right. Bill would probably have a few (minimum 10? ) choice words for me if he saw that. So maybe I should qualify my statement by adding that Swiftech is beyond big. They're in a league of their own

Thanks for the answers. After reading through several pages of posts over at Procooling, I found a few references to Hydor pumps not being very reliable. Not sure if they're quiet, but either way I won't be buying one of those. Guess it's down to the 1048 or 1250 (can't afford an Iwaki, unfortunatel...

Seems like none of the big cooling companies are very concerned with galvanic corrosion. Copper heatsink, aluminum radiator. At least Zalman anodized theirs and gold-plated the waterblock. The fins on the Thermaltake unit look extremely small. I can't see how that thing is going to perform very well...

Just for grins:



They are basically identical except for the label.

I just received my shipment of 10 orange Yate Loon 120mm fans from Tekgems. They are exactly the same as the one in the picture. I won't have a chance to test them until this weekend, unfortunately. I noticed on the invoice that they were drop-shipped directly from Evertek and billed to Tekgems, so ...

You cannot split orders at that site. The pricing on the 120mm is over $10 each until you hit 10, then it's about $4. Shipped to Texas it came to about $48 for 10. According to my tracking number, I should be receiving them today. It's taken about 5 days, including the weekend. Maybe you could find ...

Either it's not reading the RPM, or it is reading it and the fan is spinning below the minimum RPM alarm set in the BIOS. If the latter is the case, simply go into the BIOS and change the alarm setting to a lower RPM. That fan is probably spinning at around 1300 RPM (or 1000 if it's a Nexus), which ...