ciz28 wrote:here's mine... i'd definately go with back instead of front. i've switched out components a lot and always found it worth the extra effort to have a clean look.

Nice cable mgmt. Looks good.

Make sure you trim out the extra plastic in the front sub-bezel to help compensate for the lost airflow from the antec holes. I would appreciate it if you would elaborate on this. :?: Look at this pic here: http://www.arcticquest4wheelers.org/files/Members/Memberpages/ErikHansen/computer/pages/DSCN...

Make sure you trim out the extra plastic in the front sub-bezel to help compensate for the lost airflow from the antec holes.

I second the question on which HSF you got in there...

You may have stability problems if you don't use it. That power connection is there to support the CPU's power needs. It may be just a P4 and not a Celeron requirement, though. I'm surprised it booted without it.

If you're talking 80mm, Panaflo are best suited for undervolting, as they don't exhibit the click. 92mm and 120mm are a different story.

Here's a review of it that has better pics.

http://www.systemcooling.com/modules.ph ... cle&sid=40

Your cutting skills are more needed on the front bezel than on the rear. Make sure you remove all the extra black plastic on the sub-bezel to help improve airflow.

Wow, now that Ralf mentioned it, I just ordered an Evercase 4252 today from Newegg. Thing is, I had no idea it was on the recommended list (!??) Silly me, and I usually print that thing out and study it on the john (jk). I just spent 2 hours perusing Directron and Newegg for a cheap case for my fath...

The frames are made up of a bunch of little frames. Those little frames take like seconds. Chill.

He working on that "Banned" status.

I've not seen anything with grommet mountings on the 5.25 bays.

Fahcore_78 is Gromacs, wich is good for SSE/3dnow
Fahcore_65 is Tinker, which is older and doesn't have those optimizations, and generally is stinky on PPD, not that that stuff really matters.

Man that 64 is big too. As if 95% of the people out there give a rat's ass what the "64" stands for anyway.

Costs almost as much as an SLK3700AMB, but has a crap-ola PSU and no other special features. (grommeted mounts, etc)

Yep Ralf, I was thinking the same thing as I was reading his requirements. Sounds like an SLK3700 spec sheet.

That looks like the de-humidifier in my basement

How about some of that really spongy double-sided sticky tape?

Out of curiosity, is the pump louder then the WD1200JB? That must be a seriously loud pump!

I think the Tinkers are being finished up, and we are switching back to Gromacs. That partially explains the upward trend in everyone's scores.

didn't someone make a heatsink already with a heatpipe just like that? I want to say thermaltake, about a year ago?


Edit: Got it, Coolermaster HHC-001.

Melluk wrote:

never, ever think about going to a caribbean medical school. ever.

I was going to say, but the weather is allways nice. And then i looked at
the second picture of the main office building and saw ice on the
roof.

Christmas lights?

There's differing opinions on whether 120 is better than 80. 120 you can get more air and still run low speed, but they still make more noise that the best 80mm fans.

Rusty075 wrote:Save your money. I bought the dynamat stuff and found it to be a near total waste. Hard to work with, smelly, unattractive once installed, and to top it all off it's only marginally effective.

Don't forget seriously heavy. I just sold my old case that had like 20 lbs of Dynamat in it.

Looks like it is marketed under other brands as well.

http://iocombo.com/product/showproduct. ... id=MSD_810

I use a rheobus to control all my fans, except the one in the PSU. I can't stand haven them change speeds all the time

Only place I know people have gotten HDD grommets are mcmastercarr.com I don't know the model #'s though. I got my 800U at SVC< but the price there right now is not the best. Try all the regulars: Case-mod.com directron.com frozencpu.com heatsinkfactory.com svc.com newegg.com Be sure to factor in sh...

Holy crap is that x-trememodz.com site annoying.

That's what I did to my old Zalman 6000, it worked wonders. Then I switched to bolt-on HSF

Sweet !! Now there's an SLK-900 that has the classic clip style retention mechinism that will work with my Tualatin MOBO !! :D Now the only question is, do I want to fork over the change for the upgrade from an SLK 800-A :?: I wouldn't. I mean, I know its better, but is it really that much better? ...

LoL, the flood of responses, all within 2 minutes of each other. We must have all been typing at the same time

Needlenose pliers. Pull the probes out of the fan's molex connector and switch them out. Takes 5 minutes. Typically you have to bend the little "wings" back down so they lock back in when you push them back in.

Let me know if they makes any sense at all. I am assuming some familiarity.