Something else that you may want to consider is an elastic suspension method. This works a little better than grommet mounting and is easier to use, in some cases, while more difficult in other cases.

Something worth looking into.

Check the link in my sig for my Elastic Hard Drive Suspension.

Relying of the PSU, only, for exhaust is only recommended for relatively cool CPU's. If you have a hot CPU, then you will be forcing all the hot air to go through the PSU. Check the links in my sig. I have a lot of LX-6A19 mods and I have a machine, very similar to yours, that has been through sever...

Well, I wanted to try the ghetto method, just to see if the effort was worth it. I have some results, although they aren't as spectacular as I had hoped. CPU temps have dropped a bit and PSU exhaust temps have dropped a bit. Neither drop was earth-shattering. It was in the neighborhood of 5 degrees ...

Well, I couldn't really use an elbow because the intake and exhaust end of the duct are right across from another. I decided to just make a duct out of cardboard and duct tape. I'm testing it, now, and I'm eager to see how well everything works. My old Zalman 7000 did an incredible job, at low noise...

I've just purchased and installed Thermaltake's big Heatpipe Tower heatsink on my P4 machine, with the intention of removing the stock fan and making a duct to go from the housing to the exhaust fan and have the exhaust fan suck air through the heatsink and out of the case. This is a link to the hea...

It's a piece of cake. Simply unplug the current fan (and its fan connector from the circuitboard, noting which pin was the hot pin), then plug in the Panaflo L1A in the same orientation. Done. MikeC wrote an article, with some pictures. You can refer to that. With some PSU's, the wiring is soldered ...

The last time I orderd a LX-6A19 from Directron, I got a free PSU, too. That PSU is actually pretty good. I've used several of them. I always swap the fan for a Panaflo L1A and it is super-quiet. Ducted would be even better, but I haven't bothered, yet. I have some pictures and tips on modding that ...

I think your Sonata has better cooling/silence potential, because it features a 120mm exhaust fan. You're going to have to run an 80mm exhaust fan much faster/louder, to get the same airflow possible from a 120mm exhaust fan. If you don't want a case with a front door, but you do want quiet and low ...

For what it's worth, I've had nearly the same experience as Ralf. I used to use those older Antec cases a lot. I loved them because of the build quality, but once I discovered the Evercase 4252 (with its rubber-grommet hard drive mounts) and the Antec SLK3700 (and its various clones), I've never gon...

I would go with the Zalman. If quiet is your goal, I think it will outperform any thermalright heatsink. It will cool almost any chip at 3 or 4 volts and is nearly inaudible at those speeds.

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but.... Has anyone used this? Any comments on it? I'm thinking of buying one, removing the stock fan, and building a duct from the cooler to my 120mm exhaust fan, then hook up the exhaust fan to be temperature controlled by CPU temp. I'm thinking of this heatpipe ...

I think that a lot of the hype around the Samsung drives with JVC motors is just 'the-sky-is-falling' rhetoric. Are there a FEW drives that are actually noisy? Probably. Is it really an epidemic? No. If you read through the comments in the thread about Samsung drive noise, you will read that over 90...

intx wrote:hey, does the rear fan exhaust? if it does, doesn't that conflict with the zalman in airflow?

Yes, the rear fan does exhaust, but it doesn't conflict. They are both running low speed and I can't detect any turbulence problems between them.

My vote:

Evercase 4252

or

Compucase LX-6A19 (cheaper and better designed version of the Antec SLK-3700 series.)

Simply...

YES.

Sounds good - I will check out tekheads.......... Now - question to anyone who may help - (of course I will investigate as well!!!) but if anyone knows the answer - will the 7000alcu fit a sonata and abit NF7-S where the NB is replaced as well with a NBJ47. Right now the 6500 touches the NBJ47 - pu...

ak wrote: Tell us how good the 7000 is?

It keeps my P4 3.0C, overclocked to 3.5 GHz, under 55C, at variable voltage from 3.25-5.17V. Voltage varies, dependent on CPU temperature. At idle, it runs 3.25V and under 45C. At full load (gaming), it ramps up to 4-5.17V, but always stays under 55C.

I love the Fortron FSP-300. That PSU can drive almost any system you throw it in and they are under $30 at Newegg. I've run machines from overclocked, high-end P4's to AMD duallies with that PSU. The only thing I don't like about it is the temperature controller for the fan, so I always disconnect ...

I love the Fortron FSP-300. That PSU can drive almost any system you throw it in and they are under $30 at Newegg. I've run machines from overclocked, high-end P4's to AMD duallies with that PSU. The only thing I don't like about it is the temperature controller for the fan, so I always disconnect i...

The most effective/quiet heatsink option (in my opinion) is the Zalman CNPS7000AlCu. On you present CPU, you should be able to run it about 3V and it will be inaudible. It will still do an excellent job with any future CPU you buy. I run one on my P4 3.0C, overclocked to 3.5 GHz, and I run it at 3.2...

Something that I noticed when working with the Zalman Fan Mate was that it defeated other speed controllers, like Asus Q-Fan and Speedfan. This has something to do with the way it is designed, but I found it annoying, since I knew it could run at less than 5V and still do a great job. I made a Fan V...

Well, most of Asus' boards have Q-fan, so most of them would apply to this list. Asus boards have poor undervolting capabilities though, except their older boards. That's a matter of perspective, I guess. What all the newer boards offer are ranges from about 7 or 8 volts, up to 12 volts. Interestin...

Well, most of Asus' boards have Q-fan, so most of them would apply to this list.

I have personal experience with the Asus A7N8X Deluxe and P4P-800E Deluxe. They will both support that heatsink, in that case, and they have Q-Fan for the CPU.

If you want to try a differend kind of voltage controller, which will only cost you a few dollars to make and will allow you almost ANY voltage, check out my Fan-Voltage-Controller-Strip. There is a link in my sig.

I built a Fan Voltage Controller Strip, that I use, alongside Q-Fan control (on Asus motherboards) and Speedfan (on my other systems). This allows me to lower the voltage of several fans, but ALSO have temperature control, in addition to my own undervolting.

You can find a link in my sig.

I'm quite fond of the Evercool Aluminum 120mm fan @ 3-5V. It is quieter and moves more air than my Panaflo FBK 120mm fans. You can find these at www.svc.com and www.directron.com (AL12025 is the model number.) As for your Q-Fan control, you might be interested in a little write-up I did about using ...

Any update on release of the thing's release date? (And Ed's two-day later review?) I see it listed as Socket64 compatible, but will the release version be so? So maaaany questions. One greaaat desire for a heatsink besides stock. If you need a better-than-stock heatsink, now, then I suggest you tr...

itworks wrote:For my disk A.A.M. does not show up differences. I would like to know is A.A.M only reduces seeks noise, or reduces idle noise either.

AAM only reduces seek noise. It doesn't affect idle noise.

I tried it and it worked. I had firmware 3.05 on my 20 GB Barracuda IV and AAM did work . I used Hitachi Feature Tool to go in and change it, with my ear next to the drive, to see if there would be a difference. The difference was audible. I flashed to the new firmware (which upgraded me to 8.12) an...

Overclockers.com did a brief report and a full review on this heatsink a while back, for anyone who's interested.

http://www.overclockers.com/articles1036/index03.asp

http://www.overclockers.com/articles1043/