Zambaretzu-
1) If you're going to be sharing a dorm room /apartment (or even just living in a dorm), noise from your computer will probably be the least of your noise problems.
2) I'd just forget the whole fanless thing. A couple of 5V Panaflos don't make all that much noise. If your PC is under a desk on the other side of the room, you won't hear it. If you have a mini-fridge, it will be louder than your PC. If your dorm/apartment has forced air HVAC, or radiators, or any kind of pipes in your wall, they'll be louder than your PC.
3) Monitors and PSUs can make some high-pitched buzzing, but if you're far enough away from them, it won't matter. Also, you'll probably be turning your monitor off at night, so that doesn't matter much. There is apparently some kind of crap you can spray on electrical components if they're buzzing, but that's all I know about it. You probably won't have this problem anyway.
4) I wouldn't get the TK Power thing, because the few (1 or 2?) reviews I've seen of it are not very enthusiastic. If you insist on a fanless PSU (which I think is kind of silly), then you can check the forums here for the die-hards that are epoxying more heatsinks onto their PSU heatsinks, or order that all-black one from Germany (search around the forums for a link). At $300, it's not too much more than the TK Power, and a lot more friendly. For a fan-based solution, MikeC (who's very exacting) recommends the Nexus PSU which he's reviewed here on this site.
5) You won't get the kind of performance you're looking for out of a passively cooled P4. Zalman basically sells the 6000/6500-AlCu as a passive heatsink for 10W Via C3s, labeled as the 6100-AlCu. (It does seem to be a slightly different design.) That means that they're
not selling it as a passive heatsink for the 30W P3 CuMines, which means that design (which is not so different from the P4 design) probably poops out around 20W for passive heat dissipation. That's nowhere near what you'd need for even a 50% underclocked Northwood P4. And while you might be able to adjust the multiplier on an AMD chip pretty low, my understanding is that sometimes your system won't POST if you set the multiplier too low. (Please someone go ahead and try. I'm running a P3, so I can't try it.) And most voltage adjustments only let you increase voltage, so you probably won't get help there.
6) Until you see lots of people on this forum raving about some other FDB drive, don't buy anything except a Barracuda IV or V. There's lots of ways to quiet them down, but most people seem to like putting sidesinks on it and then either suspending it or putting it on a piece of foam. The NoVibes is fine, too.
7) Your video card is right on target. Just make sure the ZM80A-HP is won't bump anything on your motherboard.
8 ) If your PSU doesn't have a bottom-directed intake fan, you really should put an exhaust fan in that general area. It will help the Northbridge, the ZM80A, and your CPU. Your other option would be to leave the case open, but a 5V Panaflo at the back of your case is probably quieter than an open case with the HD and any other fans exposed.
Attention All CPU Haters:
Maybe it's not my place to say, but it's no fair threadjacking to have an Intel/AMD fight. It's an important enough debate that it should have it's own thread (maybe even a sticky thread), not be picked up again and again anytime someone mentions they're thinking of buying a CPU. Further, when we do dispute this issue, let's everyone do their best to avoid deliberately incendiary behavior. I think all of us here are sensible enough to recognize that different users have different needs, and that whatever CPU provides the best match for the user is the one they should buy.
Oh, and buy VIA!
The PS that you specify does not seem to run with a P4. I would check out AMD anyway, better value for money
Maybe two boxes, one a small 24/7 box, and the other, the more powerful gaming machine? Explain to they who are funding you, that this is a critically important investment for your education 
