Water Cooling Tubing/Piping
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Water Cooling Tubing/Piping
Has anyone seen an attempt at plumbing water cooling with stainless/copper/aluminum piping. That would really be a killer way to get everything routed nicely if you had the room and patience to do so. Thanks.
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Very durable if you put it together with no leak... what if there is single solder joint with microscopic hole? etc.Dr.CrackEnHore wrote:No real advantage, it is just it would be very water tight, very durable and it would look extremely good if it were done right.
Extremely good looking? Sure... if you can machine it & lap it etc after you make the route.
Quite frankly, there is no real advantage on this route (not to mention you WILL need very careful planning. 0.1" off would mean your piping need to be redone or give undue stress to your components).
After mucking around 7-8 different path of water flowing for last week or so, I really think best would be sticking to Clear Flex or Tygon and get it over with.
Once you really get going on water, there is enough twiddling as is to get the "correct" setup for yourself that you won't have time to do the copper piping or what not.
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- Location: Cambridgeshire, England
As with vinyl and copper tubing, the weakest points are at the joints. If you've never soldered copper pipes, you're in for a whole lot of work for little payoff. You'll probably need a blowtorch, acid-core solder, and a lot of patience.
The only benefit from hard lines is that you don't have to worry about the lines crimping on you. But if you thread a coil spring either inside or outside the vinyl hose, they won't crimp either.
Do yourself a favor and skip the copper lines. They'd look ugly when you finished them anyway.
"The voice of experience"
The only benefit from hard lines is that you don't have to worry about the lines crimping on you. But if you thread a coil spring either inside or outside the vinyl hose, they won't crimp either.
Do yourself a favor and skip the copper lines. They'd look ugly when you finished them anyway.
"The voice of experience"
it's not that much work. I tried doing it...and i had never soldered a copper joint before. It was really easy.
The problem you may face though is once you have all your peices fitting them into your case.
It does look fantastic. Here are my first 3 solder jobs...just experimenting and practicing.
And after a little sanding/lapping it looks extremely nice
I'm using vinly right now though, because i wasn't willing to solder it to my waterblock yet.
I dont' suggest using 90 degree bends. Use 2 45 degree.
The problem you may face though is once you have all your peices fitting them into your case.
It does look fantastic. Here are my first 3 solder jobs...just experimenting and practicing.
And after a little sanding/lapping it looks extremely nice
I'm using vinly right now though, because i wasn't willing to solder it to my waterblock yet.
I dont' suggest using 90 degree bends. Use 2 45 degree.
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Damn, that does look purty though!
My experience with copper pipes is by doing the sprinkler system in my and my parents' yards. If you find a leak in a joint, resoldering is a B!TCH with water in the pipes. White bread works in a pinch though, and disolves under pressure (but wouldn't work in a PC).
If you measure twice, cut once, and prefit all your pieces, you should be OK. Just solder one joint at a time then fit the next piece in your case, mark it, then solder the joint outside your case.
I still think you should use a vinyl tubing joint at the water block. You shouldn't make a rigid line all the way around since disassembly for servicing would be damn near impossible.
My experience with copper pipes is by doing the sprinkler system in my and my parents' yards. If you find a leak in a joint, resoldering is a B!TCH with water in the pipes. White bread works in a pinch though, and disolves under pressure (but wouldn't work in a PC).
If you measure twice, cut once, and prefit all your pieces, you should be OK. Just solder one joint at a time then fit the next piece in your case, mark it, then solder the joint outside your case.
I still think you should use a vinyl tubing joint at the water block. You shouldn't make a rigid line all the way around since disassembly for servicing would be damn near impossible.
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Yeah copper conducts electricity. It's also cheap at any home improvement shop.
One problem I thought of might be the dielectric difference between metals. If you have copper piping to a vinyl joint connected to an aluminum block (whatever), the dielectric action between the copper/water/aluminum might be sufficient to generate and store voltage (like a battery/capacitor). It might be enough to zap you if you don't have your piping grounded. This happens between dissimilar metals and a conductor.
Just a thought.
One problem I thought of might be the dielectric difference between metals. If you have copper piping to a vinyl joint connected to an aluminum block (whatever), the dielectric action between the copper/water/aluminum might be sufficient to generate and store voltage (like a battery/capacitor). It might be enough to zap you if you don't have your piping grounded. This happens between dissimilar metals and a conductor.
Just a thought.
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- Posts: 539
- Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2003 6:35 am
- Location: Cambridgeshire, England
Ah, yes. That would make a difference.Rusty075 wrote:Ok, let me be more specific. Distilled water doesn't conduct electricity. I don't want your going to prison to be on my conscious.
<yells to bathroom>
Sorry honey! I'm sure the ambulance is trying to hurry. Just try not to move.
<back to typing>
Yes, distilled water will only conduct electricity under extreme pressures and also if additives are mixed (which is recommended in water-cooling setups like 'water wetter' or plain auto antifreeze).
Whatever.
I'm sure my ideas are wrong anyway (or just misguided).
Like I said before. "That copper pipe sure looks purty!"
Gotta go, the ambulance is here now.