Water Cooling Tubing/Piping

The alternative to direct air cooling

Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee

Dr.CrackEnHore
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2003 12:05 pm

Water Cooling Tubing/Piping

Post by Dr.CrackEnHore » Sun Apr 20, 2003 6:31 pm

Has anyone seen an attempt at plumbing water cooling with stainless/copper/aluminum piping. That would really be a killer way to get everything routed nicely if you had the room and patience to do so. Thanks.

Dr.CrackEnHore
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2003 12:05 pm

Post by Dr.CrackEnHore » Sun Apr 20, 2003 7:13 pm

No real advantage, it is just it would be very water tight, very durable and it would look extremely good if it were done right.

jinu117
Posts: 241
Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2003 1:46 am
Contact:

Post by jinu117 » Sun Apr 20, 2003 8:46 pm

Dr.CrackEnHore wrote:No real advantage, it is just it would be very water tight, very durable and it would look extremely good if it were done right.
Very durable if you put it together with no leak... what if there is single solder joint with microscopic hole? etc.
Extremely good looking? Sure... if you can machine it & lap it etc after you make the route.
Quite frankly, there is no real advantage on this route (not to mention you WILL need very careful planning. 0.1" off would mean your piping need to be redone or give undue stress to your components).
After mucking around 7-8 different path of water flowing for last week or so, I really think best would be sticking to Clear Flex or Tygon and get it over with.
Once you really get going on water, there is enough twiddling as is to get the "correct" setup for yourself that you won't have time to do the copper piping or what not.

Will35
Posts: 77
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 2:42 pm
Location: Eugene, OR US

Post by Will35 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 5:51 am

Hi Dr C,

Here's a couple of sites that might give you some ideas


Areoquip


Earl's

These are mostly high performance automotive items, the fittings come in all shapes, sizes and colors...

pingu666
Friend of SPCR
Posts: 739
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: swindon- england :/
Contact:

Post by pingu666 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 6:28 am

the sharp bends u would most likely have would kill flow rate
and its a pain if u change setup

Mr_Smartepants
Posts: 539
Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2003 6:35 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, England

Post by Mr_Smartepants » Mon Apr 21, 2003 7:00 am

As with vinyl and copper tubing, the weakest points are at the joints. If you've never soldered copper pipes, you're in for a whole lot of work for little payoff. You'll probably need a blowtorch, acid-core solder, and a lot of patience.
The only benefit from hard lines is that you don't have to worry about the lines crimping on you. But if you thread a coil spring either inside or outside the vinyl hose, they won't crimp either.
Do yourself a favor and skip the copper lines. They'd look ugly when you finished them anyway.

"The voice of experience"

beav
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2003 9:50 am

Post by beav » Mon Apr 21, 2003 7:46 am

it's not that much work. I tried doing it...and i had never soldered a copper joint before. It was really easy.

The problem you may face though is once you have all your peices fitting them into your case.

It does look fantastic. Here are my first 3 solder jobs...just experimenting and practicing.
Image
And after a little sanding/lapping it looks extremely nice
Image

I'm using vinly right now though, because i wasn't willing to solder it to my waterblock yet.

I dont' suggest using 90 degree bends. Use 2 45 degree.

Mr_Smartepants
Posts: 539
Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2003 6:35 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, England

Post by Mr_Smartepants » Mon Apr 21, 2003 8:00 am

Damn, that does look purty though! :D

My experience with copper pipes is by doing the sprinkler system in my and my parents' yards. If you find a leak in a joint, resoldering is a B!TCH with water in the pipes. White bread works in a pinch though, and disolves under pressure (but wouldn't work in a PC). :lol:

If you measure twice, cut once, and prefit all your pieces, you should be OK. Just solder one joint at a time then fit the next piece in your case, mark it, then solder the joint outside your case.

I still think you should use a vinyl tubing joint at the water block. You shouldn't make a rigid line all the way around since disassembly for servicing would be damn near impossible.

Dr.CrackEnHore
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2003 12:05 pm

Post by Dr.CrackEnHore » Mon Apr 21, 2003 8:24 am

See if done right it will be awesome

pingu666
Friend of SPCR
Posts: 739
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: swindon- england :/
Contact:

Post by pingu666 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 8:45 am

for some parts itll be better, it looks good :)
till it corrodes :\

Rusty075
SPCR Reviewer
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Contact:

Post by Rusty075 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 11:46 am

As long as you go all copper, corrosion won't be an issue. It's only when mixing metals in the system that things will start to corrode. So if the pipes are copper, all the waterblocks have to be copper too.

Rusty075
SPCR Reviewer
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Contact:

Post by Rusty075 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 5:25 pm

Copper doesn't corrode, it'll oxidize and tarnish on the outside of you don't seal it. After you've sanded it shiny just put a couple of coats of carnuba wax on it. It'll stay shiny and new looking for years.

beav
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2003 9:50 am

Post by beav » Mon Apr 21, 2003 6:03 pm

i use t-cut color restorer, and then spray on a few layers of a clear laquer type finish...That prevents all oxidation from the outside...and makes it look all nice and shiny for years on end!

Rusty075
SPCR Reviewer
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Contact:

Post by Rusty075 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 8:34 pm

Actually I've always been interested in the idea of using braided stainless steel for the lines.

Rusty075
SPCR Reviewer
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Contact:

Post by Rusty075 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 8:50 pm

No, more along the lines of the hoses they use for NOS systems in cars. Braided steel outside, with a silicon or rubber liner. Image

Will35
Posts: 77
Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 2:42 pm
Location: Eugene, OR US

Post by Will35 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 10:52 pm

There ya go, Rusty... that's the stuff I was talking about! Might you be a closet motorhead too? :)

Rusty075
SPCR Reviewer
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Contact:

Post by Rusty075 » Mon Apr 21, 2003 10:55 pm

Perhaps. :wink: I've been trying to overclock the computer in my mitsubishi.

Dr.CrackEnHore
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2003 12:05 pm

Post by Dr.CrackEnHore » Tue Apr 22, 2003 7:28 am

Water wrecks stuff too, you are already taking a chance having that in there.

Mr_Smartepants
Posts: 539
Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2003 6:35 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, England

Post by Mr_Smartepants » Tue Apr 22, 2003 7:59 am

Yeah copper conducts electricity. It's also cheap at any home improvement shop.
One problem I thought of might be the dielectric difference between metals. If you have copper piping to a vinyl joint connected to an aluminum block (whatever), the dielectric action between the copper/water/aluminum might be sufficient to generate and store voltage (like a battery/capacitor). It might be enough to zap you if you don't have your piping grounded. This happens between dissimilar metals and a conductor.

Just a thought.

Rusty075
SPCR Reviewer
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Contact:

Post by Rusty075 » Tue Apr 22, 2003 8:52 am

Although water doesn't conduct electricity.

Mr_Smartepants
Posts: 539
Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2003 6:35 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, England

Post by Mr_Smartepants » Tue Apr 22, 2003 11:00 am

Rusty075 wrote:Although water doesn't conduct electricity.
I'll remember that next time I drop a hair dryer in my wife's bathtub. :P

Rusty075
SPCR Reviewer
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2002 3:26 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Contact:

Post by Rusty075 » Tue Apr 22, 2003 11:18 am

Ok, let me be more specific. Distilled water doesn't conduct electricity. I don't want your going to prison to be on my conscious. :wink:

Mr_Smartepants
Posts: 539
Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2003 6:35 am
Location: Cambridgeshire, England

Post by Mr_Smartepants » Tue Apr 22, 2003 11:41 am

Rusty075 wrote:Ok, let me be more specific. Distilled water doesn't conduct electricity. I don't want your going to prison to be on my conscious. :wink:
Ah, yes. That would make a difference.
<yells to bathroom>
Sorry honey! I'm sure the ambulance is trying to hurry. Just try not to move.
<back to typing>

Yes, distilled water will only conduct electricity under extreme pressures and also if additives are mixed (which is recommended in water-cooling setups like 'water wetter' or plain auto antifreeze).

Whatever.
I'm sure my ideas are wrong anyway (or just misguided).

Like I said before. "That copper pipe sure looks purty!"

Gotta go, the ambulance is here now. :wink:

Post Reply