What else can I do to silence my computer?
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Netlink $13.55 http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=11485simms wrote:Turns out the only Canadian store with the Nexus is here: http://inmax.ca/InmaxContent/product.html#ACC
And that's for $20 each. Where can I get them cheaper?
http://www.inmax.ca/index.php?main_page ... th=158_159
Nexus 80mm Real Silent Case Fan 17.6 dB(A) $14.99 CDN.. that's like $11 US.
Nexus 92mm Real Silent Case Fan 19.2 dB(A) $19.99 CDN
Nexus 120mm Real Silent Case Fan 22.8 dB(A) $24.99 CDN
So I should get 2 80's for the exhaust, and 1 92 for the CPU? The 120mm's don't look too bad either, I could put one in as an intake @ 5V (but my intake is currently designed for 2 80mm's....)
Nexus 80mm Real Silent Case Fan 17.6 dB(A) $14.99 CDN.. that's like $11 US.
Nexus 92mm Real Silent Case Fan 19.2 dB(A) $19.99 CDN
Nexus 120mm Real Silent Case Fan 22.8 dB(A) $24.99 CDN
So I should get 2 80's for the exhaust, and 1 92 for the CPU? The 120mm's don't look too bad either, I could put one in as an intake @ 5V (but my intake is currently designed for 2 80mm's....)
Last edited by simms on Mon Sep 20, 2004 12:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
simms, that looks like a good buy.
Yes, stick those two 80mm at the exhaust, but first cut those window-blind-thingy-exhaust-covers
You'll absolutely love the 92mm, I can guarantee it.
As for grommets, you can do without. Use zipties. Here's the link to Bluefront's excellent cheapo method.
As for SMART, yes they have to be a feature of the hard drive. Those look like they're kind of old so they may not have SMART built in. In that case, use the free natural-temperature-monitoring-tool = your finger. touch the drive, especially the sides. it it's warm, you've no problems, but if it's hot (ie, it'll start a burning sensation within 30 seconds), you've got cooling problems. Even the slowest fan blowing almost no air will make a huge difference to your hdd.
Yes, stick those two 80mm at the exhaust, but first cut those window-blind-thingy-exhaust-covers
You'll absolutely love the 92mm, I can guarantee it.
As for grommets, you can do without. Use zipties. Here's the link to Bluefront's excellent cheapo method.
As for SMART, yes they have to be a feature of the hard drive. Those look like they're kind of old so they may not have SMART built in. In that case, use the free natural-temperature-monitoring-tool = your finger. touch the drive, especially the sides. it it's warm, you've no problems, but if it's hot (ie, it'll start a burning sensation within 30 seconds), you've got cooling problems. Even the slowest fan blowing almost no air will make a huge difference to your hdd.
Awesome. Will pick up the 92mm tonight. I plan on using the Stealths (92 and 80 @5V) as my exhaust fans. Better yet, I think the fan covers snap off, so I might not even have to dremel.
If I use teh 92 and the 80, which should go up top? The 92, or the 80? I think the 92.. but your input would be appreciated.
Do you know how I can use the fans at 5V and yet still monitor the RPM of the fans? I know I'd have to reroute (either moving the yellow cable to the mobo, or the red/black to the PSU 5V)... but is there a guide on this?
Simon
If I use teh 92 and the 80, which should go up top? The 92, or the 80? I think the 92.. but your input would be appreciated.
Do you know how I can use the fans at 5V and yet still monitor the RPM of the fans? I know I'd have to reroute (either moving the yellow cable to the mobo, or the red/black to the PSU 5V)... but is there a guide on this?
Simon
Hey great tips here, also you might ut foam under the case or the tips on mountint the case on rollers or coasters.
I have my hd mounted via a bungie hanging from loops up in the upper bay and the hd is hanging in front of the open end of the case and I used elastic to tie it across the bungie cord. Works great. I use and NMB over the SLK800 and cannot tell the difference between it and an 80L.
I have my hd mounted via a bungie hanging from loops up in the upper bay and the hd is hanging in front of the open end of the case and I used elastic to tie it across the bungie cord. Works great. I use and NMB over the SLK800 and cannot tell the difference between it and an 80L.
92 goes on the heatsink and 2 80s for the case exhaust.simms wrote:Awesome. Will pick up the 92mm tonight. I plan on using the Stealths (92 and 80 @5V) as my exhaust fans. Better yet, I think the fan covers snap off, so I might not even have to dremel.
If I use teh 92 and the 80, which should go up top? The 92, or the 80? I think the 92.. but your input would be appreciated.
Do you know how I can use the fans at 5V and yet still monitor the RPM of the fans? I know I'd have to reroute (either moving the yellow cable to the mobo, or the red/black to the PSU 5V)... but is there a guide on this?
Simon
Stay away from the Stealths. What happened to Nexus and Panaflo? (or ADDA, Papst, etc.)
Short on cash. I did get the 92 Nexus today and it is MUCH quieter. I'm gonna start sealing off the outside of the case with saran wrap. Temps are about 2C higher with the Nexus.
I didn't get the 80s today. No cash on me, and probably not for a while. I might as well use the 5V'd 80 Stealth as a case fan, better than nothing. I still have then 92mm Stealth... which is now lying around. ADDA's and Papsts are really hard to find. Good thing a store near my university is the ONLY supplier of Nexus (that I can find aside from NCIX) in Canada...
Should I be even thinking about modding my 80 L1A Panaflo at 12V? I was thinking maybe I could put it to 5V, grommet that one too... discuss.
I didn't get the 80s today. No cash on me, and probably not for a while. I might as well use the 5V'd 80 Stealth as a case fan, better than nothing. I still have then 92mm Stealth... which is now lying around. ADDA's and Papsts are really hard to find. Good thing a store near my university is the ONLY supplier of Nexus (that I can find aside from NCIX) in Canada...
Should I be even thinking about modding my 80 L1A Panaflo at 12V? I was thinking maybe I could put it to 5V, grommet that one too... discuss.
The L1A that's in your PSU? I'd let the PSU take care of that.
Heh, if you can hang that undervolted steath by the exhaust, it might do some good. I bet that L1A is louder than a 5V Stealth right now.
By the way, err, how much quieter was the Nexus than the Stealth? heh, diffcult question to answer I know... Your temp. will generally rise anytime you bother that heatsink b/c the thermal goo is being squeezed out.
For ADDA fans: http://www.mouser.com/?handler=data.lis ... 0+66400000
phamcomputer.com used to carry them but not anymore. Then there's the evil SilenX.
They are expensive though.
Heh, if you can hang that undervolted steath by the exhaust, it might do some good. I bet that L1A is louder than a 5V Stealth right now.
By the way, err, how much quieter was the Nexus than the Stealth? heh, diffcult question to answer I know... Your temp. will generally rise anytime you bother that heatsink b/c the thermal goo is being squeezed out.
For ADDA fans: http://www.mouser.com/?handler=data.lis ... 0+66400000
phamcomputer.com used to carry them but not anymore. Then there's the evil SilenX.
They are expensive though.
just leave the rpm wire on a 3 pin connector, plug it into a header, use a 4 pin molex for the two power connectors like this. only left the stubs on the 3 pin connector in case i needed to use those again later for some reasonsimms wrote:Do you know how I can use the fans at 5V and yet still monitor the RPM of the fans? I know I'd have to reroute (either moving the yellow cable to the mobo, or the red/black to the PSU 5V)... but is there a guide on this?
ignore actual wire positions though, that's 7V
I think I'll stick with Nexus. I can't justify the cost of ADDA and SilentX, not on a University budget. I actually did exactly what you said, I grommeted the 80mm Stealth @ 5V and it's quieter than the L1A. I think now, the loudest noise is either from the HDD's or the L1A. Then again, that Stealth is putting out almost nothing...Trip wrote:The L1A that's in your PSU? I'd let the PSU take care of that.
Heh, if you can hang that undervolted steath by the exhaust, it might do some good. I bet that L1A is louder than a 5V Stealth right now.
By the way, err, how much quieter was the Nexus than the Stealth? heh, diffcult question to answer I know... Your temp. will generally rise anytime you bother that heatsink b/c the thermal goo is being squeezed out.
They are expensive though.
When you said "I'd let the PSU take care of that." ... what do you mean? Swap it for an 80mm Nexus? 5V it?
It's hard to tell you exactly how much quieter it was, but I'm not going back to Stealths anymore, if that helps. Well, the 92mm Stealth was the loudest part of my computer. Now I think it's the L1A in the PSU.
Funny enough, the temps are still roughly the same (54C CPU/42C case).
So what now? That rubber with the twist ties worked beautifully. I also realize it allows and eliminates the 'dead air' right in front of the fan where the motor is. ....
Ah... Hmm. that would require me to use a small screwdriver or something to get the other two power connectors out, and then put them in another 3pin huh? Where am I gonna get a 3 pin *looks around junk pile*Straker wrote:just leave the rpm wire on a 3 pin connector, plug it into a header, use a 4 pin molex for the two power connectors like this. only left the stubs on the 3 pin connector in case i needed to use those again later for some reasonsimms wrote:Do you know how I can use the fans at 5V and yet still monitor the RPM of the fans? I know I'd have to reroute (either moving the yellow cable to the mobo, or the red/black to the PSU 5V)... but is there a guide on this?
ignore actual wire positions though, that's 7V
Thanks.
if the fan started with a 3 pin connector, i'd just leave it alone, cut the 12V/ground wires off it, and resolder the fan side of them to wires with regular molex pins for a 4-pin connector on them. i don't think i've ever even bothered taking the pins out of tiny connectors more than once or twice, they break too easy etc.
not sure what you mean exactly, unless you need one 3-pin connector for a header to monitor rpm, and another one for a bay fan controller or something. if so then yeah, you'll need to find another 3-pin connector, or just get the pins out of the first connector, and plug them directly into the fan controller or whatever. that pic i posted is one 3-pin fan connector and one 4-pin molex connector though.
if you meant getting the pins out of a regular molex connector, a hollowed-out 3.5mm male headphone plug works great for male pins, and one of those collapsible radio antennas works for both (just take it apart, find the smallest that works for male pins, one size larger will work for female).
not sure what you mean exactly, unless you need one 3-pin connector for a header to monitor rpm, and another one for a bay fan controller or something. if so then yeah, you'll need to find another 3-pin connector, or just get the pins out of the first connector, and plug them directly into the fan controller or whatever. that pic i posted is one 3-pin fan connector and one 4-pin molex connector though.
if you meant getting the pins out of a regular molex connector, a hollowed-out 3.5mm male headphone plug works great for male pins, and one of those collapsible radio antennas works for both (just take it apart, find the smallest that works for male pins, one size larger will work for female).
I've got several adapters. If you need a 4 to 3 pin adapter, I have at least five in a box. I have a couple of extra 3 pin cords that snap into Panaflo L1A also.
Stick with Nexus
fan swap - if your PSU has a two pin connector that doesn't slide out, you can use a 2 to 3 pin adapter, I think I saw one the other day, but I don't have one.
Stick with Nexus
I just mean to plug the L1A into the PSU fan controller and leave it alone. The L1A is most likely a lower CFM fan than the one that came with your PSU. It should cool your PSU fine now that it isn't the only case exhaust, but I wouldn't go any lower. The Nexus fan is a particularly bad choice b/c it requires a lot of power to start up.When you said "I'd let the PSU take care of that." ... what do you mean? Swap it for an 80mm Nexus? 5V it?
fan swap - if your PSU has a two pin connector that doesn't slide out, you can use a 2 to 3 pin adapter, I think I saw one the other day, but I don't have one.
I'd say don't touch your PSU, at least not until you can get a M1A. (M1A undervolted of course, or your current L1A at full)
There's almost no difference between the 92mm and 80mm Vantecs (at least on paper). You could use them interchangably. Vantecs have two problems. One is they're noisy to begin with, two, they vibrate a lot.
With rubber + zipties, you've eliminated the vibration problem of Vantecs. But you're right Vantecs push almost no air at 5V. Since your L1A is running full blast, it's making a bit of noise. So you could increase your Vantecs voltage a bit. At 7V, those Vantecs could become usable. If the 7V trick is difficult for you or you don't trust your PSU, use an inline resistor
There's almost no difference between the 92mm and 80mm Vantecs (at least on paper). You could use them interchangably. Vantecs have two problems. One is they're noisy to begin with, two, they vibrate a lot.
With rubber + zipties, you've eliminated the vibration problem of Vantecs. But you're right Vantecs push almost no air at 5V. Since your L1A is running full blast, it's making a bit of noise. So you could increase your Vantecs voltage a bit. At 7V, those Vantecs could become usable. If the 7V trick is difficult for you or you don't trust your PSU, use an inline resistor
In your photo, for your stubs..you didn't wire the black and red TO each other right? Wouldn't that short circuit the board? I hope you insulated EACH wire first, then wrapped it again...Straker wrote:just leave the rpm wire on a 3 pin connector, plug it into a header, use a 4 pin molex for the two power connectors like this. only left the stubs on the 3 pin connector in case i needed to use those again later for some reasonsimms wrote:Do you know how I can use the fans at 5V and yet still monitor the RPM of the fans? I know I'd have to reroute (either moving the yellow cable to the mobo, or the red/black to the PSU 5V)... but is there a guide on this?
ignore actual wire positions though, that's 7V
I just got a deal, my two Vantecs (80 and 92) for a 92mm SilenX. Should I do it? I just bought the 92 Nexus yesterday though. Yes, I'm aware the SilenX makes fans anywhere from 9-14dBa (I emailed him to find out which one it was).
Should I do it? What should I do about the 92mm Nexus then? And also keep in mind, the PSU (L1A @ 12V) is the loudest right now..
Should I do it? What should I do about the 92mm Nexus then? And also keep in mind, the PSU (L1A @ 12V) is the loudest right now..
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The ones I bought are from fry's. They're 80mm UV aerocools. They have a 21.8 dba rating at 22.9 CFM. I don't know if this is acurat, but I peronally think its one of the best deals you can get for a fan. In my opinion its as good as a panaflo. It sells for 9.90 at fry's. They claim to have a better one.
The cameleon series and the Aluminum series all have stats that outperform the UV series. They all say 20.3 dba@ 21.5 CFM. These are bout 13.99 dollars.
Given my experience with this company, you may just want to spend the 4 bucks to get the cameleon or aluminum series.
The cameleon series and the Aluminum series all have stats that outperform the UV series. They all say 20.3 dba@ 21.5 CFM. These are bout 13.99 dollars.
Given my experience with this company, you may just want to spend the 4 bucks to get the cameleon or aluminum series.
I might be in another deal for them. Just let me know how much you'd be willing to pay. I have Heatware under simms (55). Should I take the SilenX? I heard about the scandal that was here on SPCR a while back.... and I'm not sure whether to try them or not.
I also believe it's the 14dba version.
Simon
I also believe it's the 14dba version.
Simon
I don't see how 36 CFM can be 14 dBA. Stick with the Nexus which is reputedly a top quality fan at an honest 27 CFM @ 19.2dBA.Fan Dimensions: 92 x 92 x 25mm
Fan Input: 12V/1.2W
Fan Speed: 1800 RPM
Air Flow: 36 CFM
Noise Level: 14 dBA
Three Pin Connector
Four Pin Connector
It's easy to fake dBA and SilenX is not a trustworthy company. The CFM are truthful, but not the dBA. Likely the SilenX fan is just a higher CFM fan with a true dBA closer to the Panaflo L1A.
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Just threw a 92mm SilenX on my Thermalright tonight. In my experience, the SilenX fans move around the same air as Panaflo L fans. The SilenX are quieter though. If you don't feel comfortable buying from SilenX themselves, www.3dcool.com sells their fans as well. That is where I got my 92mm from.
I have not used Nexus, they do have a good rep here from those who have used them.
I have not used Nexus, they do have a good rep here from those who have used them.
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I have been wondering the whole week why this thread isn't moved to the newbie forum or system advise forum. ??????
Last edited by Tibors on Sat Sep 25, 2004 12:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Specs: http://www.nexustek.nl/80mmcasefan.htm
Model SP802512L-03
Dimensions 80x80x25mm
Weight 85 grams
Rated Voltage 12 Volts
Operation Voltage 10.2~13.8 Volts
Input current 0.15 Amp Max
Input power 1.8 Watts Max
Rotation speed 1500 RPM
Acoustic noise 17.6 dB(A)
Airflow 20.2 CFM
Model SP802512L-03
Dimensions 80x80x25mm
Weight 85 grams
Rated Voltage 12 Volts
Operation Voltage 10.2~13.8 Volts
Input current 0.15 Amp Max
Input power 1.8 Watts Max
Rotation speed 1500 RPM
Acoustic noise 17.6 dB(A)
Airflow 20.2 CFM