Aria Case Sensitive to touching...
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Aria Case Sensitive to touching...
Strange problem......I'm using a Pico dc/dc converter . The 12V PSU is sitting a few feet from the case. There are only two wires leading directly to the converter....12v and ground.
Frequently when I touch the case, even the plastic top, the computer will lock up. Sometimes I get a static spark when I touch the Aria. On several occasions the computer has started or completely shut off with a touch.
There is a carpet on the floor of this room, but humidity is normal (50%). None of my other computers with a normal PSU have this problem. I'm thinking I should branch off the ground wire, and also connect it directly to the case. Any other ideas?
Frequently when I touch the case, even the plastic top, the computer will lock up. Sometimes I get a static spark when I touch the Aria. On several occasions the computer has started or completely shut off with a touch.
There is a carpet on the floor of this room, but humidity is normal (50%). None of my other computers with a normal PSU have this problem. I'm thinking I should branch off the ground wire, and also connect it directly to the case. Any other ideas?
Ground wire sounds like the solution, the mobo makers probably expect the case to be grounded and use the mobo standoffs as grounds aswell... I've heard of problems in certain mini-itx mods that used a non metallic case, people had to ground one of the standoffs. You might have a similar problem, although having problems when you touch the plastic parts is mysterious
Re: Aria Case Sensitive to touching...
Now that sounds like an interesting mod...Bluefront wrote:On several occasions the computer has started or completely shut off with a touch.
I have the PW200M DC/DC converter in an Aria case and didn't experience such problems, either with the 12v dc input hanging in free air or secured onto the PCI bracket.
50% humidity does sound quite dry though, plus carpeting, sounds like static electricity might be your problem. But as for touching the plastic part, maybe it's budging the drive frame and jostling a loose connection?
BTW what kind of system are you running with the Pico? Do you notice the Pico or AC/DC adaptor getting hot?
50% humidity does sound quite dry though, plus carpeting, sounds like static electricity might be your problem. But as for touching the plastic part, maybe it's budging the drive frame and jostling a loose connection?
BTW what kind of system are you running with the Pico? Do you notice the Pico or AC/DC adaptor getting hot?
I found your post with your system details, very nice!
I'm surprised you had trouble powering up a P4 2.8 with a 6200, my PW200M paired with an 150W AC/DC brick had no problems running an Opteron 144 (undervolted to 1.0v) with a 7800GT. From SPCR's power dist article their P4 2.8 Northwood system with a 9600XT is drawing less than 100W DC. What is the rated amperage on your Radio Shack box, maybe it's not enough? You might want to try the 220W AC/DC brick used for the Dell Optiplex SX280, those are being sold second hand on e-bay for around $20.
BTW I believe the PicoPSU name only refers to their tiny 120W model which is barely largely than an ATX connector.
I'm surprised you had trouble powering up a P4 2.8 with a 6200, my PW200M paired with an 150W AC/DC brick had no problems running an Opteron 144 (undervolted to 1.0v) with a 7800GT. From SPCR's power dist article their P4 2.8 Northwood system with a 9600XT is drawing less than 100W DC. What is the rated amperage on your Radio Shack box, maybe it's not enough? You might want to try the 220W AC/DC brick used for the Dell Optiplex SX280, those are being sold second hand on e-bay for around $20.
BTW I believe the PicoPSU name only refers to their tiny 120W model which is barely largely than an ATX connector.
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Well I tried adding a separate ground wire from the Radio Shack 15A PSU, directly to the Aria case. That seems to have to fixed the problem. The Aria has an unusual MB mount system, which I used. It uses a series of clips and only two screws. Maybe that was the problem.
I think this 12V PSU is plenty powerful enough. Maybe the ground problem has been causing me other problems.....like the 6200 not working. It works fine in another computer with a 300w PSU (normal one).
BTW....How is your Aria running with the DC/DC converter? Did you use the 120mm former PSU hole for an exhaust fan? Very few people on these forums seem to be using an Aria case. With the right components, it is an extremely easy case to modify and work on.
I think this 12V PSU is plenty powerful enough. Maybe the ground problem has been causing me other problems.....like the 6200 not working. It works fine in another computer with a 300w PSU (normal one).
BTW....How is your Aria running with the DC/DC converter? Did you use the 120mm former PSU hole for an exhaust fan? Very few people on these forums seem to be using an Aria case. With the right components, it is an extremely easy case to modify and work on.
Glad to hear you fixed your problem.
Yes I put in a 120mm fan in place of the original PSU. More details on my system here. With a 7800GT it doesn't come close to being a silent system, but it does make for a pretty quiet SFF thanks to the DC/DC PSU. My external AC/DC brick (bought used) does get very hot though so I am looking to replace it. Is your Radio Shack unit a switched PS? Any idea how efficient it's running?
Yes I put in a 120mm fan in place of the original PSU. More details on my system here. With a 7800GT it doesn't come close to being a silent system, but it does make for a pretty quiet SFF thanks to the DC/DC PSU. My external AC/DC brick (bought used) does get very hot though so I am looking to replace it. Is your Radio Shack unit a switched PS? Any idea how efficient it's running?
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Sorry, kind of OT, but have you considered undervolting your 7800GT Hifriday? The card by default runs at 1.2V 2D and 1.4V 3D, so the card should be able to go as low as 1.2V under 3D -- it'd just be a matter opening up the BIOS in NiBiTor, changing the voltage settings, and flashing with the new BIOS. I know it's not exactly an apples to apples comparison, but I achieved very good results with my X800GTO undervolting, a 20% reduction in voltage. I'd assume the 7800GT could handle 1.2V no problem, surely 1.3V.
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Here's a link to the RadioShack 12V power Supply. Very little info about the thing. It does have a small thermal-controlled fan, but I've never heard it turn on. The guy at the RS store was using his unit, and also never heard the fan. The unit does run fairly warm.....
It's hard to compare your Aria to mine temperature/noise-wise, but I'd guess mine is quieter, using fewer fans. I really like the positive pressure design of my setup, but I have thought about turning the fan around and trying to go negative.
Nice setup you have there. You should post a summary in the SPCR gallery.
It's hard to compare your Aria to mine temperature/noise-wise, but I'd guess mine is quieter, using fewer fans. I really like the positive pressure design of my setup, but I have thought about turning the fan around and trying to go negative.
Nice setup you have there. You should post a summary in the SPCR gallery.
I'm pretty certain your setup is quieter with the nice duct work (mine is not quiet enough to be kept on my desk). I like your v2 intake duct idea with the HD mount, do you think there is enough room for a regular 3.5"? I'm curious why you're running positive i/o negative airflow? Maybe negative will be slightly louder (in the back) but have worst CPU temps+better other temps?Bluefront wrote:It's hard to compare your Aria to mine temperature/noise-wise, but I'd guess mine is quieter, using fewer fans.
As for the RS PSU, specs do mention it's "switching type" so guess it's efficiency would be in a similar range to other AC/DC bricks (70-80%?). Unfortunately it's limited to 120VAC (I'm in a 220v country) and $80 price is actually quite high (Shuttle's SD11G5 replacement 220W brick also costs around $90). I guess though at such high amperage, any of these bricks will need to dissipate quite a bit of heat. I just noticed the plastic at the end of my soldered 12v connector has partially melted, I plan to replace it with a sturdier plug/connector.
Thanks for the suggestion. Actually believe the 7800GT automatically sets itself to a lower clock/voltage in 2D mode, and at 20% PWM fan setting the Zalman VF700 is pretty quiet. Might be able to get some benefit undervolting in 3D mode, but I'm a little hesitant to fool with vid card bios.frostedflakes wrote:Sorry, kind of OT, but have you considered undervolting your 7800GT Hifriday?
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That Aria case with the DC/DC converter is a perfect design for positive airflow....blowing in at the 120mm rear hole. A short CPU cooler is almost manditory if you want an optical drive. That XP 120 was made for this ARIA. You blow inward through a duct, the CPU stays really cool. The NB also gets ambient airflow, as does the video card, and the rest of the MB components benefit from good airflow. The memory and the DC/DC converter are also in the airflow path....as is a laptop drive mounted on the copper duct. To top it off, with the top cover designed to vent the positive pressure, all the heated air in the case, just rises out the top. Can't beat this setup.....really it only needs that one fan.
Without a redesign of the duct, I don't think a 3.5" drive would fit there.....laptop is the way to go. Without a HD toward the front of the case, you can mostly block off the front vents....not needed with an upper vent hole. It's quieter that way.
Without a redesign of the duct, I don't think a 3.5" drive would fit there.....laptop is the way to go. Without a HD toward the front of the case, you can mostly block off the front vents....not needed with an upper vent hole. It's quieter that way.