Shin Etsu G-751: 5C cooler with no added noise!
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Shin Etsu G-751: 5C cooler with no added noise!
Product: Shin Etsu G-751 Thermal Compound
Manufacturer: Shin Etsu
Here's the only two English language reviews of it I could find:
http://www.meetthegeeks.org/ourreview/2002/shinetsu/
http://www.insideproject.com/showreview.cfm?reviewid=81
Here are the vendors I found for it:
US:
http://www.ajigo-store.com/therin.html: US$6
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tai-sol/shing7thergr.html US$7.95
UK:
http://www.chillblast.com/ £6.44
Okay, so why do you care? Check out this chart from the inside project review. 5C cooler than Arctic Silver 3 under load. I remember being shocked that AS3 was 2C cooler than standard stuff. It would be great if SPCR could get some to review. If the numbers hold up, this stuff is the new must-have for any Silent PC project.
Note: Coolermaster Premium Thermal Compound also contains a mixture of the same compound as Shin Etsu G-751, but performs not quite as well. It's probably much easier to find, though.
Manufacturer: Shin Etsu
Here's the only two English language reviews of it I could find:
http://www.meetthegeeks.org/ourreview/2002/shinetsu/
http://www.insideproject.com/showreview.cfm?reviewid=81
Here are the vendors I found for it:
US:
http://www.ajigo-store.com/therin.html: US$6
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tai-sol/shing7thergr.html US$7.95
UK:
http://www.chillblast.com/ £6.44
Okay, so why do you care? Check out this chart from the inside project review. 5C cooler than Arctic Silver 3 under load. I remember being shocked that AS3 was 2C cooler than standard stuff. It would be great if SPCR could get some to review. If the numbers hold up, this stuff is the new must-have for any Silent PC project.
Note: Coolermaster Premium Thermal Compound also contains a mixture of the same compound as Shin Etsu G-751, but performs not quite as well. It's probably much easier to find, though.
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I got a couple of tubes of this a few weeks ago from the vendor in your second link. I haven't used it yet. I tried spreading it on one of my spare CPUs and it is a REAL bitch to spread evenly. It is very thick and tends to roll around instead of spreading evenly. Next time I pull the HSF off of either of my rigs I'll give it a try.
There's a big to-do about this stuff over at OCforums. It kind of started here, then Joe at Overclockers.com tested it and several other thermal compounds and after that is when things started "heating up", so to speak.
There's been rave reviews of this stuff in the links that Justin_R already gave, as well as in the Chillblast forums so I'll reserve judgement until I actually try it myself. I have a very good handle on what my temps are so I should be able to draw a somewhat valid conclusion about Shin-etsu as it relates to my own situation at least.
BTW - These Shin-etsu tubes are tiny. There's only .4cc of grease in each tube. They say that's one gram and a regular size tube of ASIII is three grams for about the same price.
There's a big to-do about this stuff over at OCforums. It kind of started here, then Joe at Overclockers.com tested it and several other thermal compounds and after that is when things started "heating up", so to speak.
There's been rave reviews of this stuff in the links that Justin_R already gave, as well as in the Chillblast forums so I'll reserve judgement until I actually try it myself. I have a very good handle on what my temps are so I should be able to draw a somewhat valid conclusion about Shin-etsu as it relates to my own situation at least.
BTW - These Shin-etsu tubes are tiny. There's only .4cc of grease in each tube. They say that's one gram and a regular size tube of ASIII is three grams for about the same price.
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From what I read about AS3 which also takes upto 72hrs before it reaches best results is that the fan on top of the heatsink causes tiny vibrations. What happens is that these vibrations causes compound to even more smoothly and also fills in the impefections that the naked eye cannot notice. That was one of the reasons I read about but there maybe others..
I haven't tried shin-etsu itself... but reviews tend to agree they are in same league as Coolermaster one with shin-etsu. Compared to AS3, the difference is negligible...between coolermaster one and AS3. (Coolermaster applied correctly will be 1c cooler than AS3)... Now, applied correctly might not be the right wording... it is more likely... "exceptionally" I don't consider myself a novice (been computer geek for last two decades as starting from the time when I made my own sound card for apple)... but getting the cooler master applied well takes a lot of time and patience compared to AS3. One thing I noticed is cooler master is a little easier to clean off the mass all together after few weeks of use compared to AS3.
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First of all this stuff is a little bit of a pain to apply evenly, it is like putty. I found it easier to apply it straight onto the HS rather than the CPU. I covered a large area of the heatsink.Sledge wrote:Hey, ez. Now it's your turn to tell me (and everyone else) if that stuff works
Okay I have finally waited 3+ days as suggested before giving out my results.
Before with stock Intel HSF @5v and thermal pad
CPU temp: 41C idle
CPU temp: 47C load
After with Shin Etsu G-751 thermal compound
CPU temp: 37C idle
CPU temp: 43C load
So the results are clear I lost about 4C with this thermal compound, but I really wonder if I applied my AS3 instead of Shin Etsu would I get similar results? Possibly not as good..
So do I recommend this product? Well not fully because its a pain to spread.
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Acetone works but its harsh compared to Isopropanol, also found in some nail vanish removers.GamingGod wrote:hmm if this stuff is really that good then i think ill try some too, to remove the stock goop on a intel heatsink what do you use? Ive heard alcohol and razorblade, anything else?
Just buy some nail vanish remover (contains Isopropanal) without any alcohol. Alcohol is not good for your CPU. Apply it to the thermal pad, and whipe it clean. Intel stock thermal pad also has 1 layer of thin metal (possibly aluminium) just peel it off. Then apply it again on whats left of the goop onthe HS and whipe again.
All gone nice and clean.
Dont apply too much to the CPU goop, just get cottom buds/pads and whipe it off as you are going along.
Update: Read your post again, RAZORBLADE!!!!! Never heard anyone using a razorblade to remove thermal compounds before. You don't need it just get Isopropanol and the stuff will vanish with varnish. LOL
I just read a new roundup at OCprices.com that reaches the same conclusion as the others: "[Shin Etsu G751 is] a bitch to use, it's a bitch to spread and it takes ages to cure, but once it does it literally slaughters the competition."
I think I'm finally ordering some today.
I think I'm finally ordering some today.
The reviews are mixed:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles660/
Or it is possible that there are several variants of G751 which differ in composition OR that it is truly so difficult to spread that some sites will get worse results due to uneven spreading
regards,
Halcyon
PS Regardless, I'm also interested in getting some to test. It's a cheap tweak I think.
http://www.overclockers.com/articles660/
Or it is possible that there are several variants of G751 which differ in composition OR that it is truly so difficult to spread that some sites will get worse results due to uneven spreading
regards,
Halcyon
PS Regardless, I'm also interested in getting some to test. It's a cheap tweak I think.
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I tend to agree with Joe Citarella, who does not see much difference between the goops. Ditto Dan. Most "serious" HS testers don't seem to put much faith in "speciality" thermal goops.
recent piece on goop by aussie dan:
http://www.dansdata.com/ascer_ttv11.htm
slightly less recent piece on goop by aussie dan:
http://www.dansdata.com/goop.htm
recent piece on goop by aussie dan:
http://www.dansdata.com/ascer_ttv11.htm
slightly less recent piece on goop by aussie dan:
http://www.dansdata.com/goop.htm
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Opps, I never got back with my results.
I finally got around to trying it about 4-6 weeks ago. Temps with the Shin-Etsu (after 3+ days to "cure") were maybe 1-2°C cooler than with ASIII. That's just not enough difference to offset the pain-in-the-ass that it is to apply, plus it costs $7 for a 1cc tube while ASIII is about $8 for a 3cc tube.
I finally got around to trying it about 4-6 weeks ago. Temps with the Shin-Etsu (after 3+ days to "cure") were maybe 1-2°C cooler than with ASIII. That's just not enough difference to offset the pain-in-the-ass that it is to apply, plus it costs $7 for a 1cc tube while ASIII is about $8 for a 3cc tube.
Well ArticSilver thinks that a fan on the heatsink helps to shorten the breakin period. I guess due to vibration but I could be wrong.Oh, and it's not vibrations that helps the goop to settle after a few days, it's the heat.
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the silver particles in Arctic Silver 3, it will take a minimum of 72 hours, and as many as 200 hours to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink.) The CPU's temperature will drop as much as 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period.
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I used to use AS3 all the time, then i found some thermal pad - Chomerics T725. I used it, and my temps dropped pretty drastically.
this was on an AX-7 with Panaflo. Then i used those pads on many heatsinks and a waterblock, and have always had excellent results each time. I recommend it whole-heartedly.
My application of AS3 was ok - not giving "bad" temps per se, but the pad dropped them even further.
Me =
http://store.yahoo.com/tai-sol/therinmat.html
this was on an AX-7 with Panaflo. Then i used those pads on many heatsinks and a waterblock, and have always had excellent results each time. I recommend it whole-heartedly.
My application of AS3 was ok - not giving "bad" temps per se, but the pad dropped them even further.
Me =
http://store.yahoo.com/tai-sol/therinmat.html
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I question this.MikeC wrote:I tend to agree with Joe Citarella, who does not see much difference between the goops. Ditto Dan. Most "serious" HS testers don't seem to put much faith in "speciality" thermal goops.
The biggest difference I found was when I used thermal grease that came with the Zalman HS. This stuff is useless and dries out after a while, but even temps at the beginning was poor compared to when I used AS3.
Are you sure you have not noticed a difference with different thermal goops?