Sounds interesting. Any idea when the review will be out?During testing, the ZM-MFC1 did preserve the PRM monitoring. How low you can go depends mostly on the monitoring circuit. Many of those found on motherboards stop working properly below about 1000 RPM. I was able obtain RPM readings from a Panaflo 80L1A using the an external RPM sensing device made by fancontrol (of the SPCR forums). Temperature/rpm monitoring obsessives will love this product for use with the 2-lead Panaflos! (Look for a review on it soon.)
SPCR rpm sensing device
Moderators: NeilBlanchard, Ralf Hutter, sthayashi, Lawrence Lee
SPCR rpm sensing device
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- Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 11:19 am
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I just wrote this to patord, thought I should post it here:
//edit: what's with the ad?I'll send you as many as you want (I found seven) as-is for the price of a padded envelope and postage. Looks like that'll be about $2. Of course I'd appreciate a couple of bucks for the parts and whatever, but I'd pretty much written them off a while ago.
I can test them, make the cables you need, etc. but I'd have to insist on a few more dollars for my time and parts. Probably $5 ea.
Let me know how you'd like to proceed.
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here's the best i can do in the time i have.
schematic:
pile-o-parts:
the two thru holes between the connector act as the switch on the schematic.
not pretty, but they work (and, now, they're cheap).
Gotta run; I'm pouring new piers for the back deck. Concrete waits for no man.
Money talks, as they say. paypal [email protected].
schematic:
pile-o-parts:
the two thru holes between the connector act as the switch on the schematic.
not pretty, but they work (and, now, they're cheap).
Gotta run; I'm pouring new piers for the back deck. Concrete waits for no man.
Money talks, as they say. paypal [email protected].
Fancontrol, I don't want to subvert your efforts on your sales, but maybe you can help me out.
I went through my pile o' components and found that I had everything in that schematic (well, almost, but I was ordering some switches at work from Digikey anyways). I put it together and got some interesting readings on my oscilliscope. Basically, it was an interesting signal output, but not very square wave (and it didn't vary when the fan speed changed). The only substitution that I made was an Electrolytic capacitor rather than a ceramic one.
I went through my pile o' components and found that I had everything in that schematic (well, almost, but I was ordering some switches at work from Digikey anyways). I put it together and got some interesting readings on my oscilliscope. Basically, it was an interesting signal output, but not very square wave (and it didn't vary when the fan speed changed). The only substitution that I made was an Electrolytic capacitor rather than a ceramic one.
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did you stuff R1? I know it's listed as a DNS part, but that's because I wanted to try different resistances once the boards were made (hence the thru-hole requirement). ~10ohm is about right.
Once you get that, try messing with the pot until the output starts to show up in a even pattern of negative spikes. Watch the + side of the comparitor, you should see the same thing. The LM acts as a level shifter and buffer btw the current sense resistor (R1) and the tach input.
And, I have no efforts on sales. No worries. Best of luck.
Once you get that, try messing with the pot until the output starts to show up in a even pattern of negative spikes. Watch the + side of the comparitor, you should see the same thing. The LM acts as a level shifter and buffer btw the current sense resistor (R1) and the tach input.
And, I have no efforts on sales. No worries. Best of luck.
I'm wondering if I'm missing a component somewhere. The oscilliscope signal bounces slightly when the fan is on, and the bouncing is proportional to the fan itself. Yeah, I have a 10 Ohm current resistor acting as current sense.
The oscilliscope output starts with a 20mV 2.5ms pulse, 7.5ms rest, and then a -20mV 2.5ms pulse. That basic shape stays, even when the fan isn't spinning I don't suppose you'd have any idea what might be causing it. Maybe tomorrow I'll take a picture of the circuit in the breadboard to show how it looks.
The oscilliscope output starts with a 20mV 2.5ms pulse, 7.5ms rest, and then a -20mV 2.5ms pulse. That basic shape stays, even when the fan isn't spinning I don't suppose you'd have any idea what might be causing it. Maybe tomorrow I'll take a picture of the circuit in the breadboard to show how it looks.
I'd be be interested in having one if you've got any left...depends on how much it will be to ship to the UK.fancontrol wrote:I think I've got 6-10 lying around. I'd have to test them to know if they're any good. Send me a message if you want one. Price will vary based on shipping.patord wrote:you still ahve any for sale fancontrol?
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sthayashi - no clue. assuming you're looking at the (+) input to the comparitor you should never get negative pulses; that implies the fan is generating power. 20mV is equivalent to only 2mA, I bet your fan is drawing more current than that.
Are you sure you have the scope set to a DC coupling and that it is well grounded to the circuit?
What do you get when you just hook the scope to +12? You could be seeing the switching frequency of your power supply, but that's a long shot.
Scooby - no more.
Are you sure you have the scope set to a DC coupling and that it is well grounded to the circuit?
What do you get when you just hook the scope to +12? You could be seeing the switching frequency of your power supply, but that's a long shot.
Scooby - no more.
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DNS stands for "Do Not Stuff" i.e. leave the part out when the board is populated.
One more thing occurred to me last night. The '393 is an open collector output, just like a fan; it won't drive the signal one way or the other. If you want to see if it works on a bench, you'll need to add a pull-up resistor (10k is good) between +12 and the output.
Tach sensing circuits, typically, have that pull-up built in.
One more thing occurred to me last night. The '393 is an open collector output, just like a fan; it won't drive the signal one way or the other. If you want to see if it works on a bench, you'll need to add a pull-up resistor (10k is good) between +12 and the output.
Tach sensing circuits, typically, have that pull-up built in.
I just got a chance to play around with it again now. Here's the update:
The circuit doesn't appear to work for the Panaflo 120mm L1A, and it barely works for the Panaflo FBL 80mm.
When I probe the non-inverting input of the comparator, I get a great signal that could be a passable fan Tach. For the 80mm, it's a peak voltage of 1.2v. The 120mm has a peak voltage of 2-2.5V (I'm checking out with an Oscilloscope).
The inverting input isn't good at all. Is that supposed to be a reference point that sits at mean voltage of the non-inverting input?
Thanks again for all your help on this.
The circuit doesn't appear to work for the Panaflo 120mm L1A, and it barely works for the Panaflo FBL 80mm.
When I probe the non-inverting input of the comparator, I get a great signal that could be a passable fan Tach. For the 80mm, it's a peak voltage of 1.2v. The 120mm has a peak voltage of 2-2.5V (I'm checking out with an Oscilloscope).
The inverting input isn't good at all. Is that supposed to be a reference point that sits at mean voltage of the non-inverting input?
Thanks again for all your help on this.
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WOOHOO!!! It worked!!!
I had to swap most of the resistors with something else BUT IT WORKED!!!
What I did differently was:
a) replaced the DNS resistor with a low resistance current sensing resistor I bought a while ago (0.15 Ohms).
b) replaced the 100 Ohm resistor with a wire.
c) replaced the 15k resistor with a 100k resistor.
One thing to note for anyone trying this at home: There are 4 periods per rotation with this circuit, not the typical 2. The upshot with that is that it can be theoretically read on most computers. You just have to remember to divide the RPM signal by two.
Now what I need to do is figure out the best way to display tach onto an LED screen without needing to use a microcontroller.
I had to swap most of the resistors with something else BUT IT WORKED!!!
What I did differently was:
a) replaced the DNS resistor with a low resistance current sensing resistor I bought a while ago (0.15 Ohms).
b) replaced the 100 Ohm resistor with a wire.
c) replaced the 15k resistor with a 100k resistor.
One thing to note for anyone trying this at home: There are 4 periods per rotation with this circuit, not the typical 2. The upshot with that is that it can be theoretically read on most computers. You just have to remember to divide the RPM signal by two.
Now what I need to do is figure out the best way to display tach onto an LED screen without needing to use a microcontroller.
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without thinking too hard about it, i think you could pull it off with an oscillator, counter, and--probably--a binary to bcd converter.
the counter gets hooked to the fan output. the oscillator latches the count and resets it. the bcd converter takes the count from the output and puts it in a format that the lcd will enjoy, and--presto--you're done. it wouldn't be that hard to do in a PLD, either, and that's not technically a micro
the counter gets hooked to the fan output. the oscillator latches the count and resets it. the bcd converter takes the count from the output and puts it in a format that the lcd will enjoy, and--presto--you're done. it wouldn't be that hard to do in a PLD, either, and that's not technically a micro
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Anyone have fancontrol rpm prj. diags.? - links dropped
I'm interested in the 2 wire fan rpm sensing project that bxwrapper and fancontrol worked on. Unfortunately the links to the photos and diagrams have been broken.
Did anybody make copies? TIA - FG
Did anybody make copies? TIA - FG
Was looking at it myself yesterday...
http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewto ... an+panaflo
Still reading through and trying to figure out from whatever information it had. Wonder if that is good enough information. (lot of good fan controllers out there now with good functions except lot of them will go nutz on 0 RPM)
http://forums.silentpcreview.com/viewto ... an+panaflo
Still reading through and trying to figure out from whatever information it had. Wonder if that is good enough information. (lot of good fan controllers out there now with good functions except lot of them will go nutz on 0 RPM)
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- Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:00 am
- Location: New York, NY
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- Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:00 am
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rpm sensing
For the programmer types I found this developement system that includes a programming language, a usb interface, a project board, and some circuits. In particular I'm interested in the miniature stroboscope using leds to measure fan rpm. You create a target on the rear hub of the fan. Half is black and the other half white. Its really clever. Its recommened that you be 17 or older. - FG
http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/books/edu/ic.pdf
http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/books/edu/ic.pdf
FG, there is one site linked from the end of the original 2-wire RPM sensing thread.frankgehry wrote:There are a lot of circuits on the web for contolling speed but I haven't seen one for getting rpm from 2 wires.