T-Balancer & Attenuator – Configuration Possibilities
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T-Balancer & Attenuator – Configuration Possibilities
I’ve had my mCubed T-Balancer for a while now. I’m one of those people who can’t leave well enough alone so I’m constantly tweaking and reconfigured to optimize my PC. I overclock, watercool, and insist on quiet computing. Many fans and many ways of controlling them went in and out of my PC before I found the ultimate controller, the mCubed T-Balancer. For more info about it I suggest you check out these links…
mCubed
Hardware-Test Review
Mad Shrimps Review
I happily settled with the Orange Yate Loon 120mm Fans for their vastly superior ability to move air at 500 to 1500 rpm with no noise other then the movement of air at the higher RPM range. I have used, and will be using again soon, the Panaflo 120 1M fans for an external radiator setup.
The T-Balancer output signal uses a square wave or PWM signal instead of the typical Analog type signal that a PSU or POT style fan controller would use. Personally I’ve found that most every fan (even Orange Yate Loons) produce more noise when used with a PWM signal. So, mCubed created an Attenuator that converts the PWM signal into an analog signal therefore allowing the T-Balancer to control fans quietly with an analog signal. This little gem has not had much attention from forums or review sites, so I am here today to share the information I’ve learned along with multiple configuration possibilities. Thanks to Maik over at mCubed for answering all my e-mail questions.
A few facts to get us started…
Amps x Volts = Watts
Series & Parallel Connections
T-Balancer
- 4 separate individually configurable channels
- 15 Watts or 1.25 Amps @ 12 Volts per channel PWM signal
- The PWM signal is perfect for dimming/controlling CC or Cold Cathode lighting.
- Each channel is capable of running multiple parallel fans as long as the total wattage does not exceed 15. When parallel, only one fan can use its signal lead.
Attenuator
- PWM signal in, Analog Signal out
- Capable of handling 6 Watts or .5 Amps @ 12 Volts - I’ve had success using 7.2 Watts but you may not be as lucky and could fry your Attenuator.
- Has three 3-pin standard fan connections used for input and output.
- Output is capable of running multiple parallel fans as long as the total wattage does not exceed 6. When parallel, only one fan can use its signal lead.
Possible Attenuator Configurations…
- Standard: 1 PWM In, 1 Analog Out: maximum output ~10V
- Y-Splitter: 1 PWM In, 2 Analog Out: maximum output >10V
- Override: 2 PWM In, 1 Analog Out: maximum output 12V, requires 2 T-Balancer Channels.
NOTE: in all modes, only 1 fan (on Attenuator Ch2) can have its signal wire connected. In Override Mode, the signal wire from T-Ban Ch2 should be disconnected.
When using override mode with two T-Ban channels, your T-Ban Channels “Curve” should go something like this…
T-Ban Ch1 & Ch2 need to be mapped to the same sensors!
T-Ban Ch1 that connects to Attenuator Ch1 has a typical curve. T-Ban Ch2 that connects to Attenuator Ch3 is either 0% or 100%. It should switch to 100% at the next temperature interval above what you set T-Ban Ch1 at 100%.
My Config…
I like my computer quiet when I’m not gaming. While gaming I want my 2 Orange Yate Loons in my case & the 2 PanafIo’s on my external radiators to operate at 12V. I use one T-Balancer channel for my CC Lights leaving me three T-Ban channels for fans. I wanted all my fans to receive an analog signal. And, I had only had 3 Attenuators. So I had to get creative…
I chose to have all 4 T-Ban channels mapped to the same digital sensors, then for the items that do not get as hot; I increased their calibration to compensate. Otherwise my hard-drive sensors would never trip my fans if needed. All my fan signal wires are disconnected; you may want to try using yours (1 signal wire per Attenuator, 1 signal wire per T-Ban Channel). A signal wire probably won’t work on the T-Ban channel being used to override.
BE CAREFUL! Before attempting this make sure you know how to wire a parallel circuit, and how to calculate the total wattage. DO NOT exceed mCubed maximum wattage for the T-BAN or the Attenuator. My configuration does exceed the rated wattage of one Attenuator from 6W to 7.2W
.3A Fan + .3A Fan = .6A
.6A x 12V = 7.2W (Attenuator max is 6W)
I took a chance and it worked for me, but you may not be so lucky.
My Next Problem with the T-Ban…
My Asus P5AD2 can’t use MBM so it can’t monitor my CPU, MB, or GPU temps. It can only use its own digital sensors. mCubed reports that they are working on being able to monitor temps from Speed Fan software… Still Waiting…
All constructive comments or corrections are welcome.
mCubed
Hardware-Test Review
Mad Shrimps Review
I happily settled with the Orange Yate Loon 120mm Fans for their vastly superior ability to move air at 500 to 1500 rpm with no noise other then the movement of air at the higher RPM range. I have used, and will be using again soon, the Panaflo 120 1M fans for an external radiator setup.
The T-Balancer output signal uses a square wave or PWM signal instead of the typical Analog type signal that a PSU or POT style fan controller would use. Personally I’ve found that most every fan (even Orange Yate Loons) produce more noise when used with a PWM signal. So, mCubed created an Attenuator that converts the PWM signal into an analog signal therefore allowing the T-Balancer to control fans quietly with an analog signal. This little gem has not had much attention from forums or review sites, so I am here today to share the information I’ve learned along with multiple configuration possibilities. Thanks to Maik over at mCubed for answering all my e-mail questions.
A few facts to get us started…
Amps x Volts = Watts
Series & Parallel Connections
T-Balancer
- 4 separate individually configurable channels
- 15 Watts or 1.25 Amps @ 12 Volts per channel PWM signal
- The PWM signal is perfect for dimming/controlling CC or Cold Cathode lighting.
- Each channel is capable of running multiple parallel fans as long as the total wattage does not exceed 15. When parallel, only one fan can use its signal lead.
Attenuator
- PWM signal in, Analog Signal out
- Capable of handling 6 Watts or .5 Amps @ 12 Volts - I’ve had success using 7.2 Watts but you may not be as lucky and could fry your Attenuator.
- Has three 3-pin standard fan connections used for input and output.
- Output is capable of running multiple parallel fans as long as the total wattage does not exceed 6. When parallel, only one fan can use its signal lead.
Possible Attenuator Configurations…
- Standard: 1 PWM In, 1 Analog Out: maximum output ~10V
- Y-Splitter: 1 PWM In, 2 Analog Out: maximum output >10V
- Override: 2 PWM In, 1 Analog Out: maximum output 12V, requires 2 T-Balancer Channels.
NOTE: in all modes, only 1 fan (on Attenuator Ch2) can have its signal wire connected. In Override Mode, the signal wire from T-Ban Ch2 should be disconnected.
When using override mode with two T-Ban channels, your T-Ban Channels “Curve” should go something like this…
T-Ban Ch1 & Ch2 need to be mapped to the same sensors!
T-Ban Ch1 that connects to Attenuator Ch1 has a typical curve. T-Ban Ch2 that connects to Attenuator Ch3 is either 0% or 100%. It should switch to 100% at the next temperature interval above what you set T-Ban Ch1 at 100%.
My Config…
I like my computer quiet when I’m not gaming. While gaming I want my 2 Orange Yate Loons in my case & the 2 PanafIo’s on my external radiators to operate at 12V. I use one T-Balancer channel for my CC Lights leaving me three T-Ban channels for fans. I wanted all my fans to receive an analog signal. And, I had only had 3 Attenuators. So I had to get creative…
I chose to have all 4 T-Ban channels mapped to the same digital sensors, then for the items that do not get as hot; I increased their calibration to compensate. Otherwise my hard-drive sensors would never trip my fans if needed. All my fan signal wires are disconnected; you may want to try using yours (1 signal wire per Attenuator, 1 signal wire per T-Ban Channel). A signal wire probably won’t work on the T-Ban channel being used to override.
BE CAREFUL! Before attempting this make sure you know how to wire a parallel circuit, and how to calculate the total wattage. DO NOT exceed mCubed maximum wattage for the T-BAN or the Attenuator. My configuration does exceed the rated wattage of one Attenuator from 6W to 7.2W
.3A Fan + .3A Fan = .6A
.6A x 12V = 7.2W (Attenuator max is 6W)
I took a chance and it worked for me, but you may not be so lucky.
My Next Problem with the T-Ban…
My Asus P5AD2 can’t use MBM so it can’t monitor my CPU, MB, or GPU temps. It can only use its own digital sensors. mCubed reports that they are working on being able to monitor temps from Speed Fan software… Still Waiting…
All constructive comments or corrections are welcome.
They sort of do...
The MiniNG $46.97 + Shipping
- separate control of 2 fan channels
- 50W per channel with PWM, combined 100W
- 20W per channel with analogue, combined 25W
- 2 analogue sensors
- kick-start for water pumps
- using jumpers and potentiometers you can choose pre-set profiles like curve, step, target temperature, or manual
or
- custom configuration with T-Balancer if you have one
The MiniMG wasnt available when I bought my T-Balancer. Im happy with the digital sensors, their great once you learn how to use them (ouside the box thinking). Using the inexpensive Attenuators solves my PWM noise problems. And I REALLY like being able to configure with software. Either the T-Ban with many Attenuators or the MiniNG are both great options, its just which one works best for you.
Another new option available is the Fan Amp $23.49 + Shipping
- Single Fan Channel
- 25W analog
- Safty feature, 1 analog sensor, when it reaches your set temperature limit it activates 100% speed.
- adjustable with 2 poties for a constant voltage output
or
- converts mainboard dynamic fan power from 7-12V to 0-12V
The MiniNG $46.97 + Shipping
- separate control of 2 fan channels
- 50W per channel with PWM, combined 100W
- 20W per channel with analogue, combined 25W
- 2 analogue sensors
- kick-start for water pumps
- using jumpers and potentiometers you can choose pre-set profiles like curve, step, target temperature, or manual
or
- custom configuration with T-Balancer if you have one
The MiniMG wasnt available when I bought my T-Balancer. Im happy with the digital sensors, their great once you learn how to use them (ouside the box thinking). Using the inexpensive Attenuators solves my PWM noise problems. And I REALLY like being able to configure with software. Either the T-Ban with many Attenuators or the MiniNG are both great options, its just which one works best for you.
Another new option available is the Fan Amp $23.49 + Shipping
- Single Fan Channel
- 25W analog
- Safty feature, 1 analog sensor, when it reaches your set temperature limit it activates 100% speed.
- adjustable with 2 poties for a constant voltage output
or
- converts mainboard dynamic fan power from 7-12V to 0-12V
-
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Nice summary of some M-Cubed products. I am using the FanAmps on two SFF computers I have. They act like a two speed fan control for me.....adjustable idle control that switches to 12v when an adjustable temp is reached (using a sensor probe).
I do have a problem with your description of the attenuators, since I have five in use right now. My LIS2 fan control uses PWM, and caused my Yate Loon fans to become noisy. The Attenuators fixed the PWM noise.
I am under the impression that these attenuators do not change PWM signals to analog. But rather they smooth out the PWM voltage switching...which causes the noise. The voltage wave on a scope is changed to a series of water waves(in effect), rather than a series of square-sided, flat-topped waves. It's still PWM however. These things don't heat up and have no heatsinks at all.....which would be necessary if the output was analog.
Correct me if I'm wrong.....
One more thing about the FanAmp.....if you have a MB fan control that uses PWM, the FanAmp can change the signal to analog. But it has a separate 12v input (molex) connection, and big heatsinks to handle the heat output. It uses the PWM input from the MB(which typically varies with temp changes) to vary it's own analog output. The documentation on these things is confusing. On my MSI boards the PWM output was 0-12v. This caused the Fanamp to malfunction, since it only handles 7-12v. The Fanamp will work, however, without a MB connection...like I'm doing.
I do have a problem with your description of the attenuators, since I have five in use right now. My LIS2 fan control uses PWM, and caused my Yate Loon fans to become noisy. The Attenuators fixed the PWM noise.
I am under the impression that these attenuators do not change PWM signals to analog. But rather they smooth out the PWM voltage switching...which causes the noise. The voltage wave on a scope is changed to a series of water waves(in effect), rather than a series of square-sided, flat-topped waves. It's still PWM however. These things don't heat up and have no heatsinks at all.....which would be necessary if the output was analog.
Correct me if I'm wrong.....
One more thing about the FanAmp.....if you have a MB fan control that uses PWM, the FanAmp can change the signal to analog. But it has a separate 12v input (molex) connection, and big heatsinks to handle the heat output. It uses the PWM input from the MB(which typically varies with temp changes) to vary it's own analog output. The documentation on these things is confusing. On my MSI boards the PWM output was 0-12v. This caused the Fanamp to malfunction, since it only handles 7-12v. The Fanamp will work, however, without a MB connection...like I'm doing.
Last edited by Bluefront on Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 2:30 am
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
These Attenuators are Filters, they recieve a square wave and filter it (I think at 30Hz) to produce a rounded wave. This rounded wave looks and works just like analog. Heatsinks arent needed because its only a filter.Bluefront wrote:I am under the impression that these attenuators do not change PWM signals to analog. But rather they smooth out the PWM voltage switching...which causes the noise. The voltage wave on a scope is changed to a series of water waves(in effect), rather than a series of square-sided, flat-topped waves. It's still PWM however. These things don't heat up and have no heatsinks at all.....which would be necessary if the output was analog.
Correct me if I'm wrong.....
Bruce Ballslap wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong: You can control the MiniNG via software ONLY when you have the T-Balancer installed as well?
Thats what I saidmdearth wrote:or
- custom configuration with T-Balancer if you have one
I tried another one of my Attenuators with a 7.2W load and it smoked it. This was done with two .3A Orange Yate Loon 120mm Fans on one Attenuator in Override mode. Worked fine on the first one, and destroyed the 2nd one instantly.
Anybody know how to get the smoke back into the Attenuator? I should probably just order another one or four.
Anybody know how to get the smoke back into the Attenuator? I should probably just order another one or four.